Price Pfister 532-7PCC Marielle Pull-Out Kitchen Faucet with Matching Soap... Logo
Posted on May 03, 2009

My pricepister pull down faucet is leaking bad where the pivot ball is.I unscrewed as in the instructions,and cleaned all the pieces including areator. Reassembled and it's still leaks. can you help. especially leaks and sprays out when I pull it down and use sprayer to clean sink.

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Dan Damron

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  • Posted on Aug 04, 2009
Dan Damron
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Joined: Jun 29, 2009
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Try replacing rubber washers with springs that contact the pivot ball

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Remove stainless pop up stopper from bathroom sink?

Look on drain tail pipe, in the back you will find a nut that holds a ball with a short piece of rod going into drain and along piece of rod that is connected to the closure rod mounted in the faucet . Remove clip and disconnect long rod and pull long rod down to raise stopper./ Hold stopper and unscrew the nut and remove rod. Pay attention on the position of stopper piece that the short rod in inserted thru.
Nov 22, 2017 • Plumbing
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Ball-Type Single Lever Faucets

BALL-TYPE SINGLE-LEVER FAUCETS

  • The single-handle faucet with a ball inside to control both hot and cold water may either leak at the spigot or at the handle. A handle leak is usually caused by improper adjusting-ring tension. Simply adjust the tension to stop the leak. Leaks at the handle can also result from a worn cam gasket. Dripping from the spigot is usually caused by worn spring-loaded, soft rubber seat assemblies.

  • Parts for ball-type faucets are available in kits. Get the spring/seats kit for spigot leaks, or the complete kit for handle leaks. It may be advisable to use the complete kit to replace all working parts of the faucet at the same time. In any case, you'll need a kit containing the spanner/hex wrench for removing the handle (hex end) and turning the adjusting ring (spanner end).

  • Without turning the water off, loosen the handle set screw. Slide the handle from its stem.

  • For a handle leak, try using the spanner wrench to tighten the adjusting collar. Tighten it by turning the wrench and collar clockwise until the faucet doesn't leak when it is turned on and off. If the adjustment is too loose, the faucet will leak. If you turn it too tight, the handle will be hard to move. When the adjusting ring cannot be turned with the wrench, it is corroded. At this point, you will need to remove the cap to free the adjusting ring. (See next step.) You must turn the water off before removing the cap! Apply penetrating oil to the threads, remove the ring and clean all parts before reassembling.

  • Install the seats. For faucet leaks at the spigot, you must install new rubber seats and springs. You must turn off the water to make this repair. Unscrew the chrome cap by turning it counterclockwise. If it won't turn easily, wrap electrical tape around the cap and turn it with pliers. The adjusting ring, which is threaded into the cap's center, will come off with it. For a seats/springs replacement, pull the ball up and out by its stem. The gasketed cam will come with it. Now you can locate the two rubber seats and springs inside the faucet body. Remove them with pliers or yours fingers and install the new ones. The springs go into the holes first, and the cupped sides of the seats fit over the springs.

  • Service the ball. If the ball is dirty or coated with scale, clean it or replace it with a new one. Both plastic and brass balls are available, but use a plastic one if your home has hard water.

  • Reassembly. Put the ball and cam back into the faucet with the slot in the side if the ball fitting over the pin in the faucet body. Then make sure the tab on the cam slips down into the notch in the body. Not aligning the tab and notch is the number one cause for a faucet leaking after it is repaired. Finally, screw on the cap and adjust the ring as described in Step 2. If a properly adjusted ball-type faucet leaks at the cap, the cam and gasket must be replaced.

  • Swing spouts. If a single-lever ball faucet leaks at the base, you should replace the O-rings. Remove the spout-retaining parts, as well as the spout. Wrap the spout-retaining nut with electrical tape to protect it, and remove the nut with a wrench or pliers by turning counterclockwise. Remove the spout by pulling it up and side-to-side. One or more O-rings should now be exposed. Take the O-rings to your hardware or home center store to get matching O-rings for replacement. Clean any scale that appears on the spout base, faucet body, and the inside of the swinging spout. Install the new O-rings and reverse the steps above to reassemble the faucet.
on Jan 16, 2010 • Plumbing
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How to fix a leaky Moen faucet that leaks at the spout ,which is separate from the handle?

These faucets can leak in three different places:

  1. Internally at the valve seat
    You'll see water dripping from the spout. This means the rubber washer is worn or damaged. To replace the washer, remove the decorative cap from the handle. Remove the retaining screw and pull off the handle. Remove the decorative cover, called an escutcheon, if there is one. Unscrew the packing nut counterclockwise. Unscrew the valve stem and remove it. Remove the screw that holds the rubber washer in place. Because these washers come in many shapes and sizes, you'll want to take the old one to the hardware store and buy an exact replacement. Be sure to buy two washers so you'll have one for the other valve. Replace the washer and reassemble the faucet.
  2. Around the handle
    If you see water coming from below the handle, the packing nut is leaking. Older faucets have a string-like graphite packing material wrapped around the stem. Newer faucets use an O-ring. First try tightening the packing nut clockwise... about one-half turn. If this doesn't stop the leak, remove the packing nut and replace the packing or O-ring; then reassemble the faucet. If the valve is using the graphite packing material, it might be a clue that you should shop for a new faucet.

  3. Between a pivoting spout and the body
    The spout might be held in place with a packing nut, similar to the faucet stem, or it might have a nut at the top of the spout. In either case, remove the spout and replace the packing material or the O-ring seal. Then reassemble the faucet.
Single lever faucets also are known as "washerless" faucets. They are easier to repair than compression faucets after you determine what type of faucet you have. There are three types of washerless faucets: ball, ceramic disk and cartridge.
Leaks are evident in two places... dripping from the spout and seeping from around the spout where it joins the body of the faucet.
Leaks from the spout indicate that the ball, disk or cartridge is leaking. To repair, turn off the water to the faucet, then remove the handle. The handles on ball-type faucets are held in place with a setscrew that requires an Allen wrench to loosen. Ceramic disk and cartridge-type handles usually are held in place by a screw hidden beneath a cap.
On ball and ceramic disk-type faucets, remove the ball or disk and replace the seals. You can buy replacement kits for these faucets at the hardware store or home center.
On cartridge-type faucets, remove the spout and pull out the retainer clip that holds the cartridge in place. To remove the cartridge, pull on the cartridge stem with a twisting motion. If it resists, install the handle so you can a better grip on the cartridge to pull it out. Take the cartridge to the hardware store or home center and purchase an exact replacement kit.
Reassemble the faucet according to directions.
Leaks at the spout-to-body joint indicate an O-ring failure. Disassemble the faucet as described above. Remove the spout sleeve and replace the O-rings. It's a good idea to replace these seals if you have the faucet disassembled for repair of the ball, disk or cartridge.
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My 6310 is about three or four years old and it stuck to the left once and now it is permanently stuck to the left. What now??

The ball assembly is more than likely bad,you need to turn off water use allen wrench to remove handle unscrew retainer cap remove all components and replace including washers and springs,all available at some home improvement stores,hardware store,or plumbing supply stores.
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Slow drip from Delta single lever shower faucet

remove handle with allen wrench then unscrew sliver ring that covers ball with stem sticking out you might need a strap wrench if the threads are corroded
Mar 07, 2010 • Home
5helpful
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533-50 kitchen faucet leaks above base mount at pivot body when water is on and the faucet is pivoting to fill other sink.It dribbles out on counter top.Seems not to leak if faucet stays stationary.The...

There are O rings that seal the various body parts of this faucet. I would try turning off the supply lines, removing the handle, and unscrewing the faucet and the housings. Look for O rings that seal each part. Could be a broken, or maybe some foreign material has gotten in the O ring grooves. Best bet would be to replace any O rings and tighten it all back securely. It should not have any Up and Down play, should only swivel side to side. I'm thinking O rings. While there, you can replace the seat seals and springs, so that you preclude any leaks from the faucet itself. Lowes, Home Depot, carry the repair kits for these faucets at a reasonable price. And they usually include the allen wrench and wrench to remove the handle and the body parts. And they are relatively inexpensive. Around 4 to 6 dollars. Its an easy fix.
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I have a Hansgrohe kitchen faucet model P-IX 9538/IBO KIWA and it has a driping leak. Does anyone know how to fix this? It does not look like a regular faucet that I am accustomed to fixing. Thanks, Rich

Is this the Axor model with one handle? Of so you need to get a new element - the central piece inside the faucet - from Hansgrohe which costs about $45. It comes with a little repair kit that has very low quality instructions.
You need to use a metric tool #3 to unscrew the little piece in the back of the handle - then the handle comes off. You have to pull it hard to get it off.
The repair kit that comes with the element has a tool to screw off the main collar of the faucet and pull out the old element. The tool is a piece of junk that bends out of shape immediately and doesn't open the collar, and possibly cuts your hand in the process. Somebody at Hansgrohe was too busy having a coffee break to figure out that by the time you repair one of these units, it's probably been in service for several years and has a good deal of corrosion and means you need to good solid tool to unscrew the collar. The tool they send is pathetic. It's actually better, if you can, to use the side of it across the two niches in the back of the collar to make the turn. You may need to give the collar a few whacks with a small hammer to loosen it, but be careful not to hit the visible part of the faucet, is it will dent easily and not look so great after you complete the repair. Once you get the collar out the replacement isn't very hard. I've done this repair twice and am so irritated by the lousy instructions and bad tool that I'll never buy another piece from Hansgrohe.
Aug 23, 2009 • Plumbing
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Faucet leaks above ball assembly when using cold water

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How do you change the cartrige for easy touch american standart k

unscrew a alen screw on the underside of the handle.
unscrew the cap that is holding the main body of the fixture.
pull up the fixture.
install in reverse order.
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Kohler Forte Single Handle Faucet Leaks

you will have to replace the ball assembly with a repair kit
1 turn the water off under the sink (hot and cold)

remove the handle ( you may need an allen head wrench to remove a hex screw or you may have to take a channel lock pliar and unscrew achrome
nut over the ball mechanism

after the handle comes off there is usually some type of lock nut that you must remove to remove the ball mechanism

remove the ball (usually chrome or brass(ther are usually little springs and rubber washers under ball

take ball and washer to ACe or lowes and match the pieces (usually sold as a kit

follow directions and installl

turn water on and pat yo!ur self on the back !
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