My water heater is taking too long to heat and my comsuption is way high compared to my last residence

It appears that the water heater has 2 elements but on 1 thermostat, I would hope that there is an upper and lower thermostat . If water heater has just been installed the cold water feed is hooked to the hot water discharge, Cold water to cold hot to hat. They are marked on top of unit..Or the unit was powered up before tank was fully purged. If there is only 1 thermostat Shut power down and using a DMM check resistance on upper heating element and compare to lower. If the element is damaged it will show a high resistance. You can buy replacement elements, at box stores.
https://hw.menardc.com/main/items/media/RHEEM001/Install_Instruct/StandardElec_UC.pdf

Replace heat trap nipples or inserts?
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html#heat-trap
Factory Heat traps save $2-$9 per year but can cause noise, and you can make your own heat traps.
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html#heat-trap
Electric water heater is probably the only household appliance made today that can be maintained and repaired by homeowner to last almost indefinitely. Certainly no other water heater can last as long, even with maintenance.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-maintain-water-heater.html
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Use an ohmmeter to compare the resistance of the two. Remove power first of course. And you will also have to remove at least one lead from the heating element before you can get a good resistance measurement. Depends on what you have, but you should get a resistance of somewhere between 8 and maybe up to 50 ohms. If you have a completely failed heating element it is going to have a VERY high resistance, but if it is marginal it might be in the hundreds. If you do have one that is bad or marginal it's going to have something like 10 times (or more) resistance than the good one. You might measure a good comparable one at Home Depot for reference. At difference of maybe 25% (not 25 ohms) is probably OK. Good luck.

Copy following links:

Electric water heater:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html
Gas water heater:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html
Tankless water heater:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

ECO reset button trips when upper thermostat senses heat over 150 degrees F.
This can be caused by bad thermostat, or element shorted to ground, or loose wire.
Also can be caused if factory-supplied insulation and cover are removed from tank, and thermostat exposed to cool temperatures.

1) Read about Stacking to see if this is causing occasional problem.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Stacking.html

2) Quick fix would be: inspect for loose wires and signs of high heat, test the elements, and then replace both thermostats, and see if problem clears up.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

3) Full test: Take 45 minutes and do complete troubleshoot.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
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Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Dort is Reliance.
http://www.reliancewaterheaters.com/prod/elec.html
6-50 Dort is 606 series

Your Customer wants energy factor.
Pdf below shows energy factor for 606 series:
http://www.reliancewaterheaters.com/lit/spec/electric/R606E0510.pdf
55 gallon has .90 energy factor.

4500 watt water heater costs about $48 per month with electric prices at 12 cents per Kwh
http://waterheatertimer.org/Figure-Volts-Amps-Watts-for-water-heater.html

Read about energy factor:
http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/water_heating/index.cfm/mytopic=13000
"...energy efficiency based on the amount of hot water produced per unit of fuel consumed over a typical day. This includes the following:

• Recovery efficiency - how efficiently the heat from the energy source is transferred to the water
• Standby losses - the percentage of heat loss per hour from the stored water compared to the heat content of the water (water heaters with storage tanks)
• Cycling losses - the loss of heat as the water circulates through a water heater tank, and/or inlet and outlet pipes." end quote

Energy factors exist so large appliances can be compared to small appliances.
-This is like comparing aircraft-carriers to small ships.
-The purpose is so large gigantic appliances look like reasonable energy alternatives, when that is not actually true.
-The aircraft carrier could have better efficiency number than smaller ship, and it gives misleading appearance that aircraft-carrier will save the consumer money. Many of the super high-consumption 80 gallon water heaters have higher energy factor, but they consume huge amounts of energy each time operated. Simple Dort series is a better value even with lower efficiency number.
-The efficiency number is only for a new product. There is no measure showing how long that product will maintain the efficiency rating.
-And lastly, the manufacturer is putting energy factor on the product, like writing your own performance review, so who can possibly double-check the energy factor.

The red reset button or ECO or energy cut off turns off power to electric water heater.
The ECO responds to temperatures in excess of 150 degrees F.

Preliminary work:
You can use thermometer to check water temperature immediately after ECO trips.
Compare water temperature against the thermostat setting.

There are 4 things that can cause ECO to trip:
1) Bad thermostat is sticking and letting element continue heating water, or ECO is reading incorrect temperature.
2) Factory installed insulation and cover missing from tank, and thermostat is exposed to cooler air and misreads tank temperature.
3) Element shorted to ground in center of element. This completes 120V circuit to ground which will cause element to continuously heat the water.
4) Loose wire near ECO causing high-heat electrical event.

Solution:
Check for missing insulation.
Check screw terminals for signs of high heat and burning >> tighten screws.
Replace both thermostats using detailed instructions given on link below.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

If the problem continues after replacing thermostats, more troubleshooting is needed:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

For more self-help information about your electric water heater:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Do-it-yourself-water-heater-timer.html

For more help, add a comment and I will respond

Here is a manual for your water heater, I think it's actually an 82VH40-2
http://globalimageserver.com/fetchDocument.aspx?id=17bb6286-4eb8-4e44-813e-6ccfafda4404

An electric water doesn not have a "thermocouple" like a gas water heater does that senses pilot., Most electric hot water heater has two heating elements, two thermostats, with high temp cut outs. If your heater is not working, the elements could be bad. If you want to test, remove power to the water heater, disconnect wires from heater elements, and using an ohm meter measure resistance across the terminals. If it is open then the element is bad. You can compare readings from top and bottom elements. While the bottom element is on more often, if you're replacing one, I'd replace both. The water heater will have to be completely drained in order to do this. If the elements are ok, then you can test the thermostats the same way. It would have been better if you could have described your problem

Take off the two grey covers, being really careful because you are dealing with live electricity, and make sure that the adjustments on the temp is set high enough to even turn on. sometimes they come from the factory that is not set high enough to even heat the water.

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When an electric water heater fails to heat water, either the power to the water heater has been interrupted or there is a problem with the controls or the heating elements. 1) Be sure electricity is being delivered to the appliance. Check the main switch on the water heater and the circuit breaker (or fuse) that serves the water heater. 2) Check the high-temperature cutoff in the water heater. Open the panel, and push the reset button. 3) If these steps don’t solve the problem, call an appliance repairperson.