Whirlpool frig has dual solenoid water valve but ice side not getting 120v supply to it!! manual jumping makes it work!! bby passed bi-metal thermostat on icemaker as it and heater defroster seem to be in series!!evaporator in freezer cabinet does defrost!! suggestions?? freezer as cold to maintain food. ?? thermostat just to front od ice making tray. richard

On the back section inside the cardboard cover there is a dual solenoid operated valve that when energized by buttons on the front of the refrigerator either dispense water, (which appears to work by your descrition) and the other opens to fill ice maker tray. It sounds like the ice tray side is not enerzing or does not work. If you take your model number and go to Searspartsdirect.com you can order the replacement valve and get the system back in operation.
Before I trash a potentially good working dual valve, make sure someone has not turned the on/off switch on the ice maker and/or the bin full bail (if it has one) is in down position. The bin full bail looks shiny metallic and rotates down to the automatic position. When a batch of ice harvests, they puch up against this bail and will halt production when the bin gets full. Once lowered because of ice usages, the bail lowers again to start another batch of ice.
Hope this helps

When an ice maker produces ice after filling with tap water and then cycles and does not refill with water that is an indication that the=> 2319734 Dual Water Inlet Valve

is defective. Replacing the water valve should get you back into the ice making business. The 2319734 Dual Water Inlet Valve has two sides. One side is for the dispenser and the other side is for the ice maker. When one side goes bad you end up having to change the complete dual valve set. Here is a link to a Whirlpool Ice Maker Trouble Shooting Manual Here is a link to another source for the 2319734 Water Control ValveI will be here should you have questions please ask, Thanks Sea Breeze

Trace water supply line to where it connects to back of unit and locate the solenoid valve. This is a small electric valve that controls water supply to ice maker. They are usually connected with compression fittings so slightly loosen compression nut on inlet side to see if you have water to that point. If no water there then backtrack water line to source and make sure water line is hooked up and valve is on.
If you have water to inlet side of solenoid valve manually actuate ice maker and listen to hear if valve is opening. IF not then valve will need replaced. If you have water to valve and valve is opening then shut off water supply valve. Renove compression nut and clean inlet screen and put back together. Check to make sure filter is open . Remove line from outlet of solenoid and blow thru it to make sure its open into freezer. Hope this helps you. Thanks

Try this

You have a dual solenoid water valve. Blue for the water and red for the ice-maker. It located in the rear lower part of the frig. The water solenoid needs replacing that will solve your problem. BB

If the ice maker is doing the normal cycle and when calls for water doesn't get any,probably the fill tube to the ice maker is clogh with ice because the dual valve (solenoid) is leaking and this water freezes up clogging the fill tube , or the solenoid doesn't work ,in both cases it has to be replaced(it's located in the back of the refrigerator attached to the water supply line).

Probably is the solenoid or dual valve ,thats leaking and the only way to fix this is changging the solenoid.

Why was there a need to increase the freezer temperature? Are you having temperature problems as well? If so, your ice maker has a built-in thermostat that, unless and until it is satisfied, will not cycle, thereby, making no ice. If temperature seems ok, and the buzzing is only occasional, then that buzzing is most likely the solenoid valve being energized but not passing water. This is a dual solenoid valve (one supplies the ice maker and the other supplies the dispenser) located at the bottom rear of the refrigerator.

ALWAYS CHECK FROM THE WATER SUPPLY LINE TO THE WATER SOLENOID VALVE ... TO ENSURE THAT YOU HAVE GOOD WATER FLOW ... IF WATER FLOW IS GOOD, SHUT "OFF" VALVE. THEN YOU CAN CHECK WATER SOLENOID VALVE STRAINER AND ORFICE TO SEE IF IT IS CLOGGED. (USUALLY LOCATED BEHIND FRIG.... INSIDE THE INLET SIDE OF THE VALVE THAT REQUIRES YOU OR SOMEONE TO REMOVE THE SUPPLY LINE BRASS NUT. (IN SOME CASES THE FITTINGS ARE NEOPREME) CREFULLY REMOVE THE STRAINER AND ORFICE ASSEMBLY ... IT IS SMALL !!! (CLEAN THEM THROUGHLLY). REPLACE ALL PARTS THE WAY YOU REMOVED THEM.... TO CHECK WATER SUPPLY SOLENOID OPERATION EASILY ... JUST USE A "METAL BUTTER KNIFE AND HOLD IT ABOUT 1/4" FROM THE TOP OF THE VALVE ... YOU SHOULD FEEL THE MAGNETIC PULL IF IT IS GOOD. LASTLY LOSEN THE NUT ON THE SIDE OF THE VALVE THAT LEADS INTO THE FRIG. TO CHECK FOR WATER FLOW. IF YOU HAVE WATER ... THEN THINK ABOUT CALLING A "LICENSED FACTORY-CERTIFIED COMPANY TO GET A "FLAT-RATE DIAGNOSTIC CHECK". UNFORTUNATELY THOUSANDAS OF CONSUMERS ARE BILKED BY SO CALLED FIX-IT-ALL HANDYMEN WHO LOOK TO REPLACE PARTS THAT CAN COST YOU HUNDREDS. NO WATER ??? NO ICE !!!

MAKE SURE THAT THE WATER SUPPLY SOLENOID VALVE IS NOT STUCK OPEN BY DEBRE. AS FOR THE HAIR DRIER ??? THERE IS A LIMIT T-STAT THAT PREVENTS THE ICE-CUBE MAKER HEATER WIRES OR PLATE FROM OVER HEATING. MAKE SURE TO LET THE IT COOL-OFF TO RE-SET THE SAFTY SWITCH. YOU CAN CHECK TO SEE IF SOLENOID IS ENERGIZED BY PLACING A METAL BUTTER KNIFE CLOSE TO THE TOP OF THE SOLENOID... YOU SHOULD FEEL THE MAGNETIC PULL FROM THE SOLENOID. ALWAYS MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE ADEQUATE WATER GOING INTO AND OUT OF THE WATER SOLENOID VALVE ... USUALLY LOCATED BEHIND THE FRIG WHERE THE ICE MAKER IS LOCATED.