Top two element work botttom two dont

Depending on the unit sometimes you can actually see them with the door off. This isn't a good idea to do because you can trip a limit switch due to not enough air being forced a crossed them. But if it's possible be sure to keep door closed as much as possible. The true way is to take an amp reading on the high voltage wire. Approximately 20 amps per 5kw of heating. 3 heat strips =60 amps. Good Luck.

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Could be gas valve when energized
Make sure filter is clean,plugged filter will increase amp draw on MTR.

you should prob take the coil back an get the correct size for your furnance .you can build plenum if you like lotta extra work though

Hi!
It could be a loose connection causing a voltage drop(higher amp draw) on either end of the element or the element shorted out(touching something to ground) or the sequencer contact that gives power to that element stuck closed and the element kept heating without the fan running or just the age of the element (burned out normally). I hope that helped!

if its a coiled "nichrome"wire,get the wattage off of it and order a re-string kit from an appliance parts retailer and re-string it yourself,if its a solid-element as in an oven bake element then go direct to the company web site for replacement cause its probably a special shaped element

your evaporator coil sits in the water pan This pan is installed at the bottom of the evaporator coil to prevent condensate water from damaging the area the furnance sits. If you open your furnance and look where you put the a/c filter the coil should be right here. If you look at where the coil rests there is you "water Pan" Good Luck hope this helped

Dave

Need to check the breaker to the unit at the electrical breaker box. You should have a dual 60 amp breaker that runs the unit. Also if you removed the front of the furnance on the inside the system will not work unless the front of the furnance is on. There is a safety switch that will not allow the system to run with the door off. There could be the problem if the breaker is on and electricity is supplied to the unit that switch may be out and need replacing. The furnance is operated on 110 volts the condensor (outside section) operates on 240v you need to insure that the proper voltage is supplied to both.
Since both units work together yet operate seperately if the furnance comes on and the condensor doesn't then there is an electrical problem at the condensor (more than likely the contactor switch) if the condensor comes on and not the furnance then there to is an electrical problem (either 110 volts not supplied) or the switch to the safety cut off is bad. Now if neither furnance nor condensor comes on there could be improper power to both or a bad thermostat since the thermostat activates both furnance and condensor. Good Luck on repairs

Dave

any furnace with a blower will go on your electric bill but it really should'nt draw enough power to raise your bill noticably unless it's running constantly.

Many electric furnaces operate in two stages, and the bottom element is only supposed to come on in the second stage.

If this is not the case with oyurs, then you aparently have a relay or "heat sequencer" that is not working.

It could be that the relay is stuck in the open position, or that its not getting 24V to the coil telling it to come on.

Check for 24V at the coil, if you have it, and do not have voltage coming out of the top of the relay, then its a bad relay.

The best to test that is to remove the top and take the outer coil and use it on any of the other burners to see if it heats up, then youll know for sure is the element or the switch.
Eddie Rentas
Tupper Lake NY