See this trick, " omg the data is still there, and 30second labor to fetch a flashlight.
"omg the monolith is full of stars" 2001 space odyssey.
Omg the LCD is NOT DEAD AT ALL.
back ground laps,, KAPUT, all or half.
SOURCE: Still having trouble with EMachines T3882
I feel your pain. I finally moved my pc to a room with no windows! But seriously, try a different monitor first. See if you can borrow someone's to just try it before you do anything else. If that borrowed monitor works fine, then you know what the problem is. (Which I believe is the problem.) By the way, what started all of your problems?
SOURCE: eMachines T6528 desktop will not boot up
The power supply fan runs from either 5V or 12 so that only tells you that the voltage for fan operation is present.
If you don't have a multimeter already, I would highly advise that you buy one.
They are available for <$20 US at auto parts stores and electronic outlets.
If you have one, remove the couple of screws that hold on the side panel that will let you access the guts.
For an initial check, turn the power off and if your cables are long enough, don't bother to disconnect anything since changing the load on the supply might make it appear OK again.
Turn it back on once you have it in position and are not moving it anymore.
Locate the main connector from PS to the mother board, insert the negative probe into any connector hole with a black wire.
All supplies will have 5V, +-12V (these are the primary voltages used by many devices) and you will find (probably) -5 and some that seem stable but undefined which are used for monitoring supply health.
Many supplies have the voltages listed on a label which often will tell you the orientation (location) of the various voltages.
I think you have a supply dying but you need to measure its outputs before assuming I'm right - been wrong before.
While you have the case open, but power off, clean out the dust bunnies you'll find using a clean paintbrush that has been dampened and made nearly dry again or buy a 'can of air' to blow them out.
I recommend against vacuuming due to the horrendous static charge they can build and this is death to most semiconductors.
If you have established that the supply is failed or failing, you can buy a new one (don't repair) for about 20% of the cost of the parts inside - yeah, it's nuts.
Your system will probably use the ATX form factor (so it fits mechanically) and any of these will have the basic connectors but examine the pictures and compare them to yours to be sure that some non-standard connectors your system might have are present on the new one.
If your supply says 350 watts, add another 50 or 100 watts to the replacement; it won't cost much more but will let the supply run with less stress.
If you feel the need, you might want to label stuff before you disconnect things if you haven't done it before but the connectors are made so you can't screw up without trying real hard.
SOURCE: My E-Machine desktop PC won't boot up
the malfunction and trouble is from memory.open the side cover then remove the memory and make a clean all pin connectors side by side then put it back again or if you want to make sure that memory is work done replace a new..good luck and have a nice day..^_^
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Two things I need you to look at. 1) Motherboard. 2) Power Supply. Power unplugged from computer, FOLLOW Anti-Static Precautions. Do not know? Post in a Comment. Look CLOSE at the Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard. Look for visual signs of failure. Here is what to look for,http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-fail... Use a bright light, and it may require removing the motherboard, to in your hands. Power Supply. Test the three main voltages coming out of the Power Supply, with a multimeter set to DC Voltage. An economical multimeter can be purchased for as little as $5 to $12. Available in a multitude of stores. An auto parts store is but one example. Need guidance in using? Post in a Comment. Also post the Model Number of the eMachines desktop computer. It's on the back next to the Windows product key, or up on the side of the computer tower. Am waiting. Regards, joecoolvette
Hi, thanks for responding. I have to get a multimeter. And I will check the capacitors. The model number of the emachine isT5082. Matoaka
For someone who is part of the Native American nation? Oh, you bet I will respond! Native American's R-O-C-K! The eMachines T5082 desktop computer uses an Intel D102GGC2 motherboard,http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.as... (Posted for specifications. Click on the Details tab. {Overview/ Details/ Feedback} ) Here is the motherboard manual,http://www.intel.com/support/motherboard... Click on the blue - Intel Desktop Board D102GGC2 Product Guide - English (PDF) May take up to 30 seconds before the first page comes up. {The file is downloading in the background. You don't get to see the file until it has downloaded all the way. 10 seconds to 12, is an average download time} Multimeter function knob is set to DC Voltage. If just a symbol, set it to the dotted line over a solid line symbol. If more than one DC Voltage scale, set it to the 0 - 50 Volt scale. Positive (Red) probe lead of multimeter goes to power wire. Negative (Black) probe lead goes to negative, or Ground wire. Your motherboard uses a 24-pin ATX main power cable. General example,http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnect... ANY Orange wire is 3.3 Volts. (DC) ANY Red wire is 5 Volts. (DC) ANY Yellow wire is 12 Volts. (DC) ALL are power wires. Positive probe lead of multimeter goes to them. (One at a time) ALL Black wires are Ground wires. Negative (Black) probe lead goes to ONE of them. Power Supply unplugged from power, put a straightened out paperclip down in the socket hole, for an Orange wire. Where the wires go into the power cable's connector, is the Back of the connector. This is where the straightened out paperclip goes. Down into a socket hole.
The straightened out paperclip is now a jumper wire. It has to go down in the socket hole, RIGHT NEXT TO the existing wire in the socket hole, in the back of the connector. Has to go far enough down in the socket hole, that it touches a metal terminal. All wires going into the main power cable's connector, has a metal terminal at the end. The tips of them can be seen in the middle photo, in the above Playtool link.
Now slip a straightened out paperclip in ANY socket hole, with a Black wire in it. ALL Black wires are Ground wires. Positive probe lead (Red) goes to the Orange wire 'jumper wire'. Negative (Black) probe lead goes to ANY Black wire. To the 'jumper wire'. (Straightened out paperclip) Plug the Power Supply into power. You should read 3.3 Volts (DC), or VERY close to it. Do the same for a Red wire, then the same for a Yellow wire. (5 Volts, and 12 Volts respectively) You have to look CLOSE Matoaka at the capacitors. May take a bright light. Sometimes it's just a slight bulge on top, or on the sides. Or the capacitor is on a real hard lean to one side.
Hi, thanks for the feedback. The problem was with the monitor. I decided to get a new cheap one, but it's pretty good for the price. A Hanns G monitor for $74.99 from www.newegg.com. It's the same brand monitor that I have now. It's a good little monitor. I think that it just got tired. My neighbor loaned me her monitor. When I plugged her monitor in, all of the problems went away. I was surprised how a bad monitor could effect the functioning the computer system. No more multiple starts needed. Faster response all around. No more NSIS error messages. No more going to black even after I was able to get the monitor functioning. Once it had gone black, all of the problems had started all over again and would have to restart it and go through the frustration of trying to possibly get the monitor to kick in. Also, the fan now starts up when I start up the computer. So...in 2 days I will have a new monitor. $92.97 with S & H. www.newegg.com has great deals, not just on computers.
Ha! I've been posting so long I forgot the basic steps. A) Check monitor and monitor cable First! Glad you found your problem, and solved it. Has opened my eyes once more. Live long and prosper. Regards, joecoolvette
OP, all monitors that old pre 2010
are CCFL monitors and failed.
dead black
dim
or intermittent. all did mostly.
when black screened, use flashlight there.
omg the data is still there.
RIP 1 million more CCFL monitors. or laptops.
in the the year 2010
all LCD when to LED.
they mostly started with high end wide monitors and work lower to 20" or the most cheap ones.
and ended there,.
a CCFL can fail in 20k yours, 5 years,on.
but sleep mode can double that.
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