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Do you have it on zig zag or maybe it is in one of the hem stitches. Make sure you have not selected a special stitch. Sometimes with a small width setting it looks like no zig zag, then when you increase the length you see it is not.
From the pattern selector (the bigger dial), select the zig-zag stitch. Then, using the stitch length dial (the smaller dial), adjust the stitch length. The closer your stitch length is to "0", the more dense will your zig-zag stitch be.
First, make sure you select the straight stitch setting on the round dial. It is the one that has the dashed lines, looking like the stitch itself. Then, you may also want to be sure that the stitch WIDTH (dial with the picture that looks like a straight line gradually turning into a zig-zag) to the lowest setting, which is generally 0. With some machines, even after selecting a straight stitch setting, moving the stitch width can change needle position. Sometimes it will initiate the zig zag, other times it will move needle position left to right. Does that fix it?
make sure the pattern selector is set for straight stitch first. If it is set correct then the machine may be "stuck" is zigzag mode. May need to be de greased and then re lubricated.
Because it is almost a straight stitch but the needle continues to move in a zig zag fashion is reason to believe it is in a long stitch. By changing the number of stitches per inch there will be a very noticeable looking zig zag stitch.
I do not have a buttonhole foot, but I can tell you how I do it with the zigzag foot on the Singer 132Q machine.
1. Mark the spacing and size for the buttonholes with chalk or marking paper. This consists of a straight line with a perpendicular line at the top and bottom that lets you know how big to make the hole. There is probably a pattern piece to let you know what the spacing should be, and you can get the size of the hole for the top and bottom line by laying the button you are going to use on top of the line you draw with the pattern.
2. Make sure the bobbin has plenty of thread.
3. Put the zigzag foot on the machine.
4. Set the stitch size to 1 or maybe a little less. You want a tight stitch to hold the hole together.
5. Start at the top of the buttonhole with the perpendicular line barely visible in the zigzag foot. Think of it as placing the "T" made by the mark in the "T" made by the opening in the zigzag foot.
6. Set the needle pattern to #1 of the buttonhole pattern (2nd from the top). Make sure it is toward the top of the number to insure you get a wide zigzag stitch. If you are getting a narrow stitch, you may have to fiddle with it, but it will work. Stitch 4-6 times making sure the stitch is wide, and end on the left side of the stitch.
7. Change the needle pattern to #2 of the buttonhole pattern and zigzag stitch down to the bottom mark. Do not pull the fabric or you will stretch the stitch. Make sure your last stitch is on the left hand side.
8. Change the needle pattern to #3 of the buttonhole pattern (same as #1), and zigzag stitch 4-6 times ending on the right side this time. Make sure the stitches are wide.
9. Change the needle pattern to #4 of the buttonhole pattern and straight stitch back to the top mark. Be prepared to hand roll the needle the last few stitches to make sure you do not pass the top stitches you have made.
10. Change the needle pattern to #5 of the buttonhole pattern and zigzag stitch back to the bottom mark. Hand roll the last few stitches and end on the left side.
11. Raise the foot and remove the fabric. You are now ready proceed to the next buttonhole or cut the buttonhole open with a small pair of scissors or a seam ripper. Make sure you do not cut any of your stitches.
Make sure you practice on some scrap fabric of the same thickness (2 layers of fabric plus pellon) to make sure you have the size right before you sew the buttonholes on the garment.
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