Water softener not working

It's not screwed on good enough or there is a seal out of place.

IF you are unsure about working on this ,then maybe you should get Culligan to send out one of there techs . I did phone a tech line for mine they where very help full and we solved the problem over the phone . Try the help line first nothing lost on a phone call .

Thanks for photo link. Not a smart meter.
Just ordinary water heater gas control valve, with small circuit board to support error codes:
Copy following link for handy resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html#intellivent
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-Honeywell-gas-control-valve.html
How the newer gas control valves are different: Old water heater had thermocouple which supplies very tiny current to gas control valve. When pilot light blows out, the thermocouple no longer sends tiny current and gas control valve shuts off gas to heater.
New gas water heaters have thermopile (just like modern furnaces and stoves), which is basically several thermocouples bunched together. So thermopile sends more current to gas control valve, and supplies enough current to power small circuit board. The circuit board records error events and issues simple error codes. If pilot blows out, then thermopile no longer sends current and gas control valve shuts off gas to heater.
Moreover, the new gas control valve can be repaired and replaced without removing from tank. So tank does not have to be drained... saving time and repair cost.
Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Hello,
On this model, the problem is usually the rotor and rotor seal. When they wear, they don't let the softener create a vacuum to pull the brine water from the tank. This is a fairly complex repair. I don't have a service manual for you. The parts are available from Sears. I know this is not much help, but I've worked on hundreds of these and this is the problem 98% of the time.

The warranty should not be void by using water softener, BUT read product manual.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-manufacturers.html

1) First thing: Why is water heater leaking? Where is the leak?
http://waterheatertimer.org/Leaking-water-heater.html
For example, if you have electric water heater leaking from element, then replace element.
Replace leaking TP valve.
If water is leaking down vent pipe, and combustion chamber rusted out, then vent problem must be corrected.
These are not covered by warranty.
If tank is rusted out, then read below.

2) If water heater is rusted out after 4 years, you might have stray current corrosion.
This happens when hot and cold pipes are not connected together with a ground wire, and/or if cold water pipe is not grounded to earth.
This might not be covered by warranty.

3) Read water heater instruction manual for advisories.
Tanks rust out when anode rod is depleted. Softened water depletes anode rod faster.
Instruction manual says to check anode rod each year.
Checking anode rod is like checking oil on an engine. If oil was never checked and engine burned up, the manufacturer will not honor the warranty.
If anode rod is depleted, and tank is rusted out, the warranty might not cover the rusted tank since owner was supposed to check for anode depletion.

4) Anode rods can also be covered with calcium deposits and stop working.
This night not have anything to do with water softener, but anode stops working and tanks rusts out.
In any case the owner's manual probably says to check anode rod to prevent leaking from rusted tank
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

If water heater is leaking, then open following 2 links to avoid tank rupture and troubleshoot leak:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Emergency-steps-for-leaking-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-is-leaking.html

Open following link if you want to install your own gas water heater:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html

40 gallon electric heater at Lowes costs 207, and is easy do-it-yourself using same basic information shown in link above for installing gas heater, except less work.

To have gas water heater installed, can run $2-300 for installation plus cost of heater.
40 gallon natural gas water heater at Lowes starts at $300+, and tanks with longer warranty cost more and last longer.
Trailers require specific type of gas water heater, so be sure to request correct model.

If you maintain the tank: keep chemicals out of same room as gas water heater, attach bare copper ground wire between hot and cold pipes, flush tank each 6 months, clean gas burner each year as shown in manual, read the manual entirely for specific information about your model, and inspect/replace anode rod every 2-3 years then basic 6-year tank can last much longer.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html

Open following link for handy Rheem troubleshooting resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Rheem-error-code-C7-76.pdf

Add a comment with your experience to help others fix similar problem.

Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

AO Smith is biggest manufacturer and ships about 140,000 units per month sold under different brands. Look at rating on tank. Is it a 9 year tank? Or 6 year? Or lifetime?
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-manufacturers.html

Number of factors can cause rust around element:

1) Element is seeping moisture: check and replace element.
Elements can start leaking any time
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-is-leaking.html

2) Anode rod can be depleted from variety of factors including water softener or calcification over anode so it will not work: Check and replace anode rod every 1-2 years with water softener, every 3-5 without water softener. New anode rod will STOP the rust, but will not repair tank that is rusted.
Tanks with longer warranties have 2 anode rods, one on hot water nipple, the other on top of tank.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

3) Stray current corrosion: add a jumper wire between hot and cold pipes, and make sure tank is grounded. If there is stray current, it will deplete steel in tank if tank is not grounded.
For example one fellow had a tank that rusted out every few years until he discovered his big radio antenna was grounded back to hot water pipe and the tank was not grounded, so the interference depleted his tank.
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html#Ground-tank

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you via e-mail or phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Hello. Here is an excellent article on how a water softener works which may answer your problem for you. http://home.howstuffworks.com/question99.htm

J.

Hi and welcome to FixYa I am Kelly.

Many times on Culligan water softener system installations there is a water bypass / on manifold from the house plumbing to the unit. If you have one it needs to be in the on position.

The soft clicking you hear can be 2 things

1. the timer doing its job actuating the contacts for the soleniods,

or

2. A solenoid being energized to open or close the purge, drain or brine tank solenoids.

If your unit has been idle for 2 years any number of things can be sticking or corroded

a. the brine tank tube opening is can be rock hard and clogged with old salt

b. the solenoid needles that actuate the opening and closing of valve diaphrams can be stuck in the metal casing they slide up and down in.

c. Not likely but the resin tank tube can be clogged

If you don't notice the soapy slick while in the shower / bath then it probably is not working.

A word of advice... if your not comfortable working on a closed sales / service / repair market product it can be costly if you attempt repairs and then call Culligan. I know they have the standard 30 min charge but in the long run they are in and out pretty quickly as that is all they do.

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly