20 Most Recent Rheem Tankless Hot Water Heater Rtg-74pvp-2 7.4 Gpm Questions & Answers

Posted to the category Cars and Trucks but appears to be heating. All questions need FULL 'make model (what it is)' as first 3 words. Contact Rheem direct and claim a warranty replacement of the thermostat or free service advice. Did you try a power reset? https://www.google.com/search?q=UMC-117 ..

Not for sure what your root cause was and I know it's a little late but I just suffered this same exact scenario on the same water heater. Storms came through, power went out, power came back on and the water heater keeps blowing the 3 amp fuses now. I removed all the cables and plugged them back in one at a time. When I plugged in the Fan Motor connector the fuses blew. Installed new fuses with the connector out, the Fan Motor was putting out 150 VDC through the connector port (on main control). I pulled the control from the unit and Q1 is visible blown and disintegrated on the control board. Obvious control design issue. I've ordered a new control and will put a surge protector on the heater now when the new control comes in. Very disappointed that this was not caught in controls testing within the manufacturers facility. New control is not very cheap. Half the cost of a new Heater. Hopefully the Fan Motor survived the high voltage with the fuses blowing. I'm putting this here for anyone else that suffers the same issue on this water heater or the Richmond equivalents as they use the same control.

Look here: http://uahmfvx.bestforum4u.com/t70-Powerstar-45-551301-manual.htm

Open following link for installing tankless electric water heater:http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Tankless-electric-water-heater.html If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Laing UCT-909-TANKLESS UltraCirc Tankless Water Recirculating Pump

This is designed to maintain the proper flow to fire the heater. Please be sure the pressure in the house is at least 5 psi over the minimum required for your unit.

If this is a new board and Altidude chip with power on set dip switch 1 and 2 to on. Then press and hold adjust button until on board blinks fast then and you will see dashes on LCD display. Set dip switches 1 and 2 back to off. Turn on remote unit and you should see 100F. With any luck you are good to go.

Might be bad single-handle faucet cartridge: http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

contact your gas company if the error code is "12," indicating that the gas supply was interrupted.

have a good day !! In LP models, the 12 error code may also appear if the LP gas supply has gotten low. To clear the code, replace or refill the LP gas supply.

go here for a list of codes for rheem tankless water heaters-- www.ehow.com/list_7833182_error-rheem-gas-water-heater.html

Hi yes it is the oxygen sensor but I cannot find where it is . looked on the rheem site . There is no picture of what it looks like.

Two things- Clean the sensor rods or replace(cheap and easy with YouTube instruction video) and at the same time replace the main program chip (also a easy plug in chip). The whole repair takes two hours for a homeowner and costs about 50 bucks for a chip. These are easy an generally the flame sensor rod is the culprit. The code may also be the limit switch but try EZ and cheap first. See You Tube.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=npxcVo7RK2c

Two things- Clean the sensor rods or replace(cheap and easy with YouTube instruction video) and at the same time replace the main program chip (also a easy plug in chip). The whole repair takes two hours for a homeowner and costs about 50 bucks for a chip. These are easy and generally the flame sensor rod is the culprit. The code may also be the limit switch but try EZ and cheap first. See You Tube.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=npxcVo7RK2c

There is an adjustment knob to control how hot the water can become. There might be a problem at the tap (however, if this is the case, you would still get hot water everywhere in the house). If the entire house isn't getting hot water, and the knob is set at the hottest water, you probably need to get the hot water tank replaced.

Two things- Clean the sensor rods or replace(cheap and easy with YouTube instruction video) and at the same time replace the mail program chip( also a easy plug in chip). The whole repair takes two hours for a homeowner and costs about 50 bucks for a chip.

Before calling service technician, open following links for troubleshoot resources including error codes and rheem chat, and typical scheduled maintenance:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Tankless-maintenance.pdf

Error 76 can mean communication failure between tankless and remote control, which can include bad remote control, bad wire, bad wiring connector, or PC board failure.
Disconnect remote control and see if tankless will work.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Rheem-error-code-C7-76.pdf

Error C8 76 can mean PC board failure.
Contact Rheem and/or service technician.

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http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html#delime Code 1L is scale build-up. Delime heat exchanger. Gene Water Heater Timers Save Money If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

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