Mu-tron Biphase I have Biphase that is missing all the screws for the housing:2 in front,4 on top and 4 at the back.Where can I find these.Are they used in other equipment? Also, it misses one of the three-way switches.Again, are they used in other equipment.They look a lot like some of the knobs on a Multimoog, only in Musitronic's grey/black color. And finally:It sounds great, but it is as if the phaser B is not as deep in its phase as phaser A.

The top panel has to come off. 2 phillip screws in the back, 3 on each side rail, and one 9/32 ( not sure on size) on the front, in the middle. Lift off carefully, the top bends. Facing front of unit, battery will be on the left side in a holder. Looks like an oversize AA battery. If this is the first time changing, you will need to clip off zip tie holding it down. Battery is getting harder to find. The one from Radio shack is too short. Do not bend the + and - tabs. You will snap off leads going to circuit board.

There are 2 possible things to look for - can't remember due to age of your instrument.

Look under the piano - about 20cm in from front corners, can you see a screw head set in a metal bracket. If so undo these and the top cover / lid will lift.

If not try : Close cover over keys, get a torch and look above the cover through the slit to the far left and right about 10cm in you might see a screw head - under these (1L 1R ) lift top cover / lid.

I hope this helps

1 Un screw all the screw on black panel, but must remember where each on goes, but Be careful not the two screws in side mouth pice which holding the pitch bend unit. 2. open the battery cover remove all the battery 3. Remove the 1/4 earphone nut, and all screws on the silver metal case. (Under the black plastic ), you don't need to remove any screws from the "key" side 4. Use something to pull the battery Cartridge sideway out from Main attachments, but not all the way out from the ewi case, because you can't, the plastic case structure will be in the way, 5. Use some flat pice metal like dinning knife insert in to between black and sliver metal to separate the two parts, start from the mouth pice end, once you open wide enough the battery cartridge can be remove from the case out. Now you can open the Ewi 4000s and see the two HX nuts that holds the strap mount, put some Nail polish on it before you tie them up.....Warning.. You must pull the battery cartage sideway out from its electric plugging mount before you are trying to separate the plastic and silver housing otherwise you will damage the circuit board. That was What I did to mine. Good luck and may God provide you wisdom for this.

It's very difficult. I advise reading through these instructions all the way to decide if you really want to engage.

First, unplug the piano. Then take the large body lid off the piano. Slide out the 2 pins on which the lid pivots on the left side.

As you start the unscrewing phase, I advise carefully labelling the origin of all the screws (in small dishes perhaps) or it will be very tough to put back together.

Unscrew the ~8 screws holding the fabric cover over the speakers. Two of these screws are triangular head so you'll need a special screw driver. Lift the fabric covered wood inner cover carefully - there's a fabric tab on the left side to give you a start. There are two speakers attached to the underside of the inner cover. Unplug two speaker wires from each speaker by pulling the connection points out and away from the speaker.

Next, take off the keyboard lid. There are 2 screws holding it on each side to the main frame box. Lift it straight up since it rests on 2 wooden pivots.

Release the display panel. There is 1 screw on each side into the frame, and 4 sets of 2 screws along its back edge. Once freed, lift it back carefully and out of the way - there are a lot of wires attached to the display panel and it's best if you don't tamper with any of them. The play in the wires should let you rest it on the main piano box.

Next remove the end blocks beside the keys. There are two screws holding each end block to the floor of the cabinet. Once unscrewed, slide the blocks toward the back about 1 cm to free and lift out of place. The left block has the power wires attached so handle it gently and fold back onto the sound box to get it out of the way without disconnecting it.

Next you must remove the front panel and key box. The front panel faces outward just below (and in front of) the keys. The key box contains the keys, the weighted levers beneath the keys, the contact points and the key electronics - all contained or sitting on a metal box.

There are several steps to remove it. The easiest way may be to leave the front panel attached to the key box - and separate them later.

First, unscrew the ~8 screws holding the back of the key box to the floor of the cabinet. (This will also detach the ground wire.) Then trace the wire ribbon emerging from the back of the key box and detach it from the motherboard - you may need to snip a plastic zip tying the ribbon to other ribbons.

Underneath the piano detach the input jack box on the left side (6 screws) and detach the disk player box on the right side (6 screws). Unfortunately these two boxes block some of the screws you must access.

Next, remove the two rows of ~8 screws along the front underside edge. The first row is ~2 cm from the front edge and the second row is about 5 cm from the edge.

You can now remove the key box and front panel. They should slide forward out of the front of the piano.

You can detach the front panel from the key box by releasing two screws on each side.

Set the key box on a work table. To free the keys, remove one of the plates holding the keys from the back. Each plate holds about 8 keys and has 4 screws to remove. The ones on the ends have less. Next, pry up the black plastic strip anchoring the backs of the keys.

Individual keys may now be removed. To remove a key push it straight backwards from it's normal resting position about 3-4 mm. With a little wiggling, the back of the key should pop out of its restraint. With the back released, slide the front forward and lift it off the key box. A key can also be removed by lifting the front clear of the lip holding it, and then sliding the back portion backwards 3-4 mm - although this requires a lot of wiggling. Use the first method if possible. It may be frustrating to get the first one, but it is possible.

You should be able to see the metal cantilevers beneath the keys. These are what stick. The cantilevers pivot on plastic bushings around two metal axles - the ends of which are visible from the end of the key box (once a small plastic cover on each end is removed - one screw each).

The bushings become worn or swell and stick to each other and their surroundings. You can try blasting them out with air and then adding a few drops of lubricating oil.

When this did not work for me, I toyed briefly with removing the two metal axles, This would allow cleaning all the plastic bushings individually by hand and replacing any defective ones. But there would still be little guarantee that sticking would not reoccur at any time, especially since the instrument is now old/compromised. Furthermore, removing the axles would necessitate taking off all the keys, and all the tiny screws along the top of the plates, and removing all the electronics from the key box.

Removing the axles would mean that to re-insert them each key would have to be threaded, (from the edges in). An enormous task.

I decided to call it quits. I'm now looking for either a new key box I can purchase intact, or another piano, not a Suzuki!!

I believe, the toe stop sits at the very top of the foot board, with the flanged back edge resting in a groove at the top of the footboard. There is a screw that holds a chain to top of the footboard and connects the chain to the footboard. I think you simply replace the factory screw with the longer toe stop bolt and nut. The bottom bit of the chain that connects to the footboard has a small flanged housing. This housing on the chain is designed to hold the nut in place as you screw in the new toe stop plate bold. It is super easy . . . and I think that about sums it up. You just unscrew the chain off the footboard, and replace the toe plate so it fits, and reattach the chain to the footboard with the toe plate bolt and nut.

take off the front panel where the nozzle comes out... to do this, unscrew 2 screws on top, 2 on bottom and 4 on each side, then carefully remove the covering for the nozzle.. if your facing it, to the right of it, is a black little nipple button thats tripped.. press that in and it should click... if it does, run the fog machine with the panel off to make sure you fixed it... if it works, put it back on, if not, try again, and if still not go to chauvetlighting.com and contact them... i had this same problem for a couple months... they called me yesterday and told me to do this.. but make sure it has a full tank of fluid.. i didnt have a whole lot in and i think i messed it up more....);

The elektrotanya website link proposed in the other solution here did not work for me. So with a similar sticky keys problem on my YDP-113 yamaha digital piano, i just started taking it apart.

I found that the problem was that the sticking keys actually had small cracks at the hinge end. See attached photo for a picture of the hinge end of the key. The cracks are very small and hard to see, but if this is your problem, you will see it in a good light. Having the key apart will also allow you to clean the sides well in case there has been a bubble gum attack or similar problem.

After learning that replacement keys are extremely expensive (like $15 per key...) I decided to move the bad keys to the highest and lowest notes on the keyboard (88 key keyboard so there is some seldom used territory). The center several octaves are now free of sticky keys and this is good enough for now.

The procedure on my YDP-113 was:
1. Remove black screws from back panel of unit to allow top to slide forward and then lift off. Set aside.
2. Roll the roll top all the way closed and then simply lift up to remove. Set aside.
3. Remove the six screws which attach the roll top gear rail (3 screws on each side panel). Set aside the gear rails.
4. Remove 2 screws in the key top bracket, and 1 screw from each end of the key top. "Key top" is my name for the small strip which lies along the top of the keys. If you have an official or better name, please share.
5. Remove the 10 or so large screws and two small screws which hold the keyboard panel down in the unit.The keyboard should now be able to slide a few millimeters toward the back of the unit.
6. Remove 1 screw to take out the power switch panel. The front of it hooks in with a tab, so slide it back and then it will lift out.
7. Careful now. I felt this was the one operation where I had an opportunity to ruin the unit if I would have fumbled: Lift the keyboard up slightly and rest its front 'legs' on the front edge of the case. Careful of small wires to not rip them. Careful of the circuit boards that are underneath the keyboard frame. The objective here is to allow the keys to come out toward you so that they can be removed and replaced or swapped. You can kind of see in the cracked key end photo, how the keyboard is up and partially out of the unit.
8. You now can do the actual swapping. To remove a key, pry up very gently in back of the key with a small screwdriver. It will pop up. Then gently work the key around to free it from the return spring without bending that spring. Replace with a new key or swap will a good working key in a little used position. Note that B and E are interchangeable, also C and F. Some other keys also look like they could interchange though I didn't personally try it.
9. Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly.

SOMETIMES the screws holding the handle go down into the amp. Sometimes there are screws from the sides also.

The LAST problem is the Tolex covering often bonds and interferes with removing AND installing the chassis...

It is best to NOT put too much force till you can tell it is free... they still can be nasty to slide out...

SOMETIMES the handle screws must be removed as well.

I have taken a lot of these out and the key is to figure out which direction it comes out... MOST are out the back and sometimes a board across the back has to be taken off with four screws to clear a transformer.

FIGHTING getting the thing out when it catches on the Tolex covering is the USUAL problem. Takes patience and sometimes a blade to hold the Tolex back.

USUALLY the speaker baffle stays in place.

lol....after reading your problem and then posting mine I had an idea. I went to youtube.com and found out that in order to hook up the U CLAMPS...you have to disconnect the table top attachment and connect the U Clamps to the short bases. You then dont need longer screws you use the little black screws that came with the stand. I went to Guitar Center after I did mine and confirmed that theirs was set up the same way....lol...LETS PARTY NOW !! This calls for a celebration party...lol GOOD LUCK AND TEAR THOSE PARTIES UP