My needles hits the lower loop on my 16sh644 serger and the thread from my needles won't stay wrapped around the lower loop lever

Hello Mary.
By the question, it looks like the lower looper is making loops? If so, check that you are using the correct needles for your serger and that the needle or needles is/are inserted correctly:
- needles must be all the way up into the needle shaft
- needles must face with the flat side to the back and the groove to the front
- use at least needle size 12/80, not smaller

Check these few items, if the loops are still not forming:
- re-thread the serger from the start, keeping in mind to thread in the proper sequence (upper looper, lower looper, needles)
- make sure that the lower looper thread lays on top of the upper looper thread and is passed to the back of the serger and then under the presser foot when threading
- make sure that the thread are securely engaged IN the tension assembly
- make sure that the serger is set for 3-thread or 4-thread overlock (i.e. that the upper looper converter is not engaged)
- check all tension setting
- stitch length should be around 2.5 - 3.5

Let me know how it goes.
Happy serging!

First take all the thread out of the machine. Put in new needles and run the machine slowly by hand and see if there is a problem with timing. If the needle hits and bends or breaks... take it in to be timed. If the needle don't hit....

Make sure you are properly threading this thing. Unlike a sewing machine which gives you some leeway, Sergers must be threaded in a certain order. Typically, upper looper, lower looper, right needle left needle. If you break a thread you can't just rethread that thread... you have to start from the beginning.

You might check singerco.com for the manual for this thing. They have most of white's manuals online they are identified by a W before the serger model number.

try these sites
youtube for timing
fixsewingmachines.com
sewusa.com

Make sure, Joe, that your needles are pushed up into needle bar shaft a's high a's they will go. Although same length, the left needle will appear higher than the one on right side when properly seated and tighten clamp screw securely. Check Lower Looper for proper threading--thread delivery eye of lower looper to far left "hidden" from sight. Use looper tweezers and it helps threading it. The thread then gets pulled to right side and goes front to back of that hole in front of you on lower looper. Follow threading guide on the cover door to right of your serger. Hope this helps. Jimmy

you can visit the Singer website and download a pdf manual from there. Link is http://www.singerco.com/accessories/instruction-manuals, type the manual number into the search field and click "search" then wait for the screen to build. There should be a red box "Download now" beside your model, click on this then again wait a while as the pdf file will be large. Once it opens to your screen you can save it to your PC, then print it out and bind or staple it up.

Threading a serger is completely different to a sewing machine and you will find a set of tweezers and a wire loop are invaluable. If these are not in your machine kit, then you should be able to buy from a sewing centre. You need to thread up in the sequence shown in the manual. For a four thread stitch this is probably upper looper, lower looper, then the two needles. But check the manual as it may be different on yours. Many sergers will have a threading diagram inside the front looper cover and this really helps until you get used to the machine. If you have cone holders in your kit put these onto the spool holders to keep the cones steady. Take the thread from the cone up to the aerial loop, down into the top loop, around the tension dial ensuring the thread has seated in correctly, then follow the threading guide down through the looper eyes and across to the stitching bed. Repeat for each thread path, then pull all four threads under the raised presser foot, lower the foot and chain off. Test stitch on fabric and look at the stitch, then adjust the tension dials for the loopers if needed. Needle tension shouldn't need changing usually.

Also check the manual to see if your model takes standard 130/704H needles, many do. But some sergers need a EL needle, its just a little longer. If you primarily plan to stitch knits on yours, then use ball point needles to stop stitches skipping. Otherwise sharps are fine, normally size 80 or 90. You won't need to change the needles as often as you do on your sewing machine but change if the stitch quality starts to go off.

And remember, always lift the aerial up to full height when you start to use the machine each time. The thread flows very fast through these machines and you need the aerial up high to give clearance for the cones so the thread can run off them smoothly.

Its a really good idea initally to thread up in 4 different thread colours and then you can diagnose the thread formation and see which thread to adjust tensions to get a good overlocked seam. Factory settings are usually 5 on all four tension dials but check your manual to double check this. Many times if you change colour thread, you can just knot on the new colour at the cone, turn the tension dial to zero then pull that thread through. This works fine for the loopers and on the needles, you just need to cut the knot off and thread the needle with the new colour. Then turn tensions back to normal setting, put the thread under the foot and chain off.

And if you do have a Singer dealership near you, perhaps see if they have a serger class as there is a few techniques that are so much easier to learn when shown; such as stitching into a right angle or turning an outside square corner and how to finish of the thread tails at the end of a seam.

There is also some good pages of info on the www.sewing.about.com website, Debbie covers overlockers/sergers there and gives good photos and info as well as free projects.

I trust this helps you get started with your Singer Overlocker.

I don't know your babylock well, some of these have automatic tensions and electronic stitch selection. But a rolled hem is achieved on any overlocker in the following way; the actual dials and knobs might vary a bit.

Firstly there is a stitch finger that you need to change or retract so that the thread can roll the fabric rather than staying flat. For a normal seam this finger sticks out in the area where the loopers and needle form the stitch holding the cut edge flat until the seam is made over it. But for rolled hems you want to retract this finger so it does roll.

On the Bernettes this is a little lever in front of the stitching area that you pull back to retract the finger. Have a look around where the stitch forms and you should see the finger. Some machines, its a part you change on the needle plate with a screw driver, or just move a switch or lever.

You want the right hand needle in place, remove the left hand needle.

Thread upper looper with wooly overlock thread, this is a fluffy nylon that pulls flat under tension but relaxes and "fills" out once its stitched into place. Gives that lovely covered look you see on shop bought tablecloth edges. Your regular thread in needle and lower looper. Usually cutting blade to the right side as you want it to cut more fabric than in the seam so it rolls under. Now loosen off the tension on the top looper, (I use 2 on mine but this is something you need to finesse with each machine), and tighten up the tension on lower looper, (about 7). Leave needle tension alone.

Now test stitch on your fabric, and finess the upper and lower looper tensions until you get the lower looper thread almost not showing, it should be right up against the needle on the underside with the upper looper thread completely wrapping around top and bottom, pulling the fabric under.a seam like this.


Test stitch and adjust upper and lower looper until this is happening.

Now, turn stitch length down to close up the stitching, probably 1 or 0.8 if you want a real satin stitch look to the hem.

Because of the stitch density this uses thread so do the finessing first, then turn the length down.

That's it! Now right down the tension settings you used and keep handy for next time.

is the thread looped around anything?make sure thread is flowing free from spool and is not wrapped around anything 'twice".

Make sure that, with the darning foot installed, that you LOWER the presser foot lever. It won't look like it went down, but the lever must be down for the tension to engage.

Set the upper thread tension to 7 or wherever it needs to be right. Don't be afraid to change the numbers, they are there for reference.

Solution taken from "Handbook for Huskylock Sewing Machine Models 1001L/1000L/1000"

1. Raise the presser foot by using presser foot lever. When the presser foot is raised, the two thread tension discs in the thread tension control panel are released so that thread passes freely between them. Otherwise thread tension may not be correct.

Important! When threading the needle, always be sure to lift the presser foot lever, and also take care to thread in the proper order.

Threading order:
1. Upper looper thread (green)
2. Lower looper thread (blue)
3. Double chain stitch looper thread (purple) in case of 5 thread stitch or double chain stitch
4. Right needle thread (red)
5. Left needle thread or double chain needle thread (yellow)

Caution!
Because the left thread tension dial (yellow) is used for either the left needle or the double chain stitch needle, these needles will never be used at the same time.

Upper looper (green) sequence:
1. Thread holder (silver triangle openings attached to thread holder stand)
2. Thread guide (flat silver clips just behind thread tension disc)
3. Thread tension disc (circular knobs with numbers for tension setting)
4. Pull thread around upper looper guide and upper looper
5. Pull thread into hole of upper looper

Lower looper (blue)
Repeat 1, 2, 3.
4. Pull thread around guide (see color coded chart inside front serger cover).

Easy threading mechanism (for lower looper)
1. Pull out the lower looper threading lever
2. Thread the lower looper and position the thread on hook of the lower looper
threading lever.
3. Push the lower looper threading lever back to its basic position while
holding the end of the thread.

Caution:
When returning the lower looper threading lever, always make sure that the two
blue triangle marks (directional arrows) meet each other.

Right needle thread (red)
Left needle thread (yellow)
Important: Thread the needles after threading of lower looper and upper looper.
First raise the presser foot lever, and then thread the needle threads in order shown in color coded thread guide.