Picture is getting darker
One of two possible issues:
1. Lamp is nearing end of life and may dim just before total failure.
2. A few of these models have 2 mirrors(check with Mitsubishi to see if yours is one) A large mirror in back (never gives a problem and do not try to clean it. Some idiot in these sets used a small mirror inside that the optical unit shines the picture into (wedge shaped mirror and small) and it is facing up----the fans intake air from the front of the set around this mirror--it gets coated with lots of dust---Picture can loose up to 70% of its brightness and clarity if that mirror is dirty--looks like 20 year old set .
If you do not wish to check with Mitsubishi GOOGLE THE MODEL NUMBER with "mirrors" to see.
If it has 2 mirrors I can tell you exactly how to get at it.
SD TECH
My MITSUBISHI 92INCH 3D DLP is getting Darker and Darker is it The Generic BULB I put in it .????? How do I tell I paid under $30 for Housing and Bulb 1 piece unit. Other than a dark picture it works great . But I know it has a Wet Color look to it when working properly.
SOURCE: mitsubishi wd-62825 dlp
The WD62825 has a Digital Module located on the left side of the chassis looking at it from the rear of the set. It's housed in a metal box that can slide out of its holder after removing the trim screws.
The module has its own power supply board and there are a group of 16v/1000uf caps on that board which commonly fail causing the constant flashing standby light. Further back on the module is a small board about the size of a matchbook called the E2P module. Its SMT (Surface Mount Technology) caps also commonly fail which can cause the same symptoms. Techs can tell whether the E2P has failed by simply removing it, hooking the DM back up and trying to power the set. If it powers on the picture won't be much good - but at least you can tell what's keeping it down...
Back to the caps on the pwr board. If they've failed they usually will buldge visibly on top. And ESR is almost not necessary. In any event that's the nuts and bolts on this model.
Is it a job for a layman? Yes and no - you might strongly consider a tech if you don't feel comfortable removing all the connections that the DM has with the signal board. There are about six - multi-pin - wired connections to unplug and then sliding the DM out of the unit and carefully removing the screws and latching to take the DM top cover off...
Hope this helps.
Bill
SOURCE: Replaced lamp and now can't get a picture
Hi Sally Jo, Unit powers on and works properly for a while then shuts off with a red lamp LED (lamp error). Suspect bad lamp part # 915P020010 2. Lamp enable line at J14 pin 6 does not switch to 5 volts after turn on, 12 and 5 volt supplies are good. Suspect the Light Engine part # 939P977010 3. At power on the lamp turns on and off three times and then the unit shuts down with a red lamp LED (lamp error). Replace the Light Engine part # 939P977010 4. Check for 12-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 4 on the Engine Driver PCB, if missing check for an open F9A09 on the Power PCB, if it is open replace F9A09 part # 283P127060 and the Light Engine part # 939P977010 5. Lamp enable line at connector J14 pin 6 on the Engine Driver PCB switches to 5 volts after turn on but does not go back to 0-volts (low) after 5 seconds, 12 and 5 volt supplies are good. Suspect the Light Engine part # 939P977010 6. Check for 5-volts DC at J-9 connector pin 1 and 2 on the Engine Driver PCB if missing replace the Power PCB part # 934C148001. Hope this helps!
SOURCE: Mitsubishi WD-62525 DLP has no picture
Here's something that might also be useful. After you turn on
the set, and get the regular red blinky lights, hold down the Device
and Menu buttons together for about 5 seconds.
The Power light will start to flash in a two digit sequence.
For example, 3 flashes, then 7 flashes = 37.
Here are the error codes, and the corresponding problem:
12 = No error detected, check power supply.
32 = Lamp Cover is open.
33 = Air filter cover is open.
34 = Lamp abnormality
36 = Light Engine (DMD or Lamp Fan stopped)
37 = Exhaust or Lamp Ballast Fan stopped
38 = Lamp Temperature High
39 = DMD Temperature High
41 = Short is detected
44 = DVI cable between FMT and Engine disconnected
SOURCE: Mitsubishi TV Picture Bowing
You will find a very good guide here and here to fix your TV.
This might not be a DIY if you do not feel comfortable. The repair shops charge about $350.00 to $400.00 for this type of repair.
SOURCE: Dark picture problem
did you change the lamp with an original or bulb only - mitsubishi only sells the lamp and housing!!!
never use generic
10,535 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×