If the blade stops it could be from a loose hex bolt, flanges missing or you have a gear problem. UNPLUG tool and check the blade first. I would remove the fill screw on the gearcase and see if the oil has metal shavings in it, if it does the gears are worn allowing the blade to slip. If not I would recheck the blade. Did this suddenly happen and if so what did you do prior to your problem
Testimonial: "Yes,,David you pointed to the right part , to the Worm Drive Sleeve , which slides over the Drive Shaft , apparently it was not pusht in far enough, into the grooves ,and the lock Nut not tighten properly, and sliding out of the Grooves. It works fine now , thanks to your help. I also found out , that the lock Washer that broke in my Saw, was for the purpose , for locking the Shaft , to remove the Saw Blade, so, I cleaned it up , from the little damage it did to the Drive Wheel , and put it in the other Saw , which I used to replace in my Saw , and it is working fine too, except , I get alot of Sparks , from the Brush Rotor , will that stop, after the brushes will grind in the right position , or does that need to be replaced ? Thanks again . Hans "
SOURCE: I need to know how much oil goes into a skilsaw worm drive resvr.
Haven't heard anything so I checked the Milwaukee worm drive saw and they recomment about 1/2 oz. Make sure you use an oil for a worm drive that is not foaming. Hope this helps. Also when checking oir level have the shoe set for max depth and on a flat surface remove the oil plug, when filling tip the saw on its side and fill, turn back over and allow excess oil to run out if overfilled.
SOURCE: I need the outer flange/blade clamp for my skil model 77 type 16
The replacement part is 1619X02969. And you can get it from directly from boschtoolservice.com ($3.75).
SOURCE: Need lower blade guard for Skilsaw Model Model 77
Yes I do Know where, here you go !
http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/skil/skil-34.html
SOURCE: How do I replace the
Bearings maybe......I'd also check the armature fan and see if it came loose. Either way it doesn't sound cheap!
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My Skil Saw , had ,what looks like a Washer , with two cuts out on the outer end broke in several pieces , and damaged the BrassGear Wheel, at the outer end , griding part of it , but very little . I tried to get a new Deiveshaft , , but as you know , those parts are not available for the Type 16. I had a chance to purchase the same Model , which had different problems , and replaced the driveshaft , which had no sign of damage , left the old gear sleave going over the driveshaft , after putting it together , and trying it , it seemed to work fine , cutting a 4x6 , several times , but a couple of Days later , I tried to cut a 1x4 and the Blade stopt ?
did you clean all the debris out of the gearbox before reassembling? I would still think you have a problem with the worm gear.
usually the arcing of the brushes/commutator is from worn or dirty brushes and or commutator. Excessive brushes can lead to other major problems. I would try running the tool at NO LOAD for about 10 minutes to see if the arcing lessens, if not they make a special stone called a commutator stone that can be used to CLEAN the commutator and SEAT the brushes. Do not grind on the brushes outside the tool because they have a special curvature to mate with the comm. If it persists then I would think there is a problem with the armature. Also an afterthought, remove the brushes and turn them upside down and reinstall to see if the wear pattern is different.
"excessive arcing at the brushes"
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