After draining solids from the water heater I now have mostly luke warm water. And had no problem before.

Clogged valve

sounds like thermostat but element can be checked with a multi-meter, turn power off at fuse panel, pull one wire of element put multimeter on both screws on element using continuity setting should show continuity or beep as most do if not its burned out and needs to be replaced

Luke warm water is the result of top element bad and the bottom is the only one heater. The best solution I can reccomend is to change both out due to the fact the bottom element may go bad and since you have to change one you might as well change both.

Turn power and water off, drain heater down and once water is drained out change them out. Once new ones installed turn water on to fill heater and open faucets and get air out on the hot side of each faucet once water is flowing out of each faucet you are now ready to turn power back on.

Open water heater drain valve or TP valve to see if unit is producing hot water.
Protect yourself from scalding water.

If water heater is not working, then call service technician, or re-post question on fixya with type of water heater, description of water heater and brand, and what you have done so far to repair problem.

If water heater is working, then you probably have crossover problem at recirculation system check-valve or at single-handle faucet. Or both.
Remove check valve and clean with white vinegar; replace defective single-handle faucet cartridge.
Open following links for resources
http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-recirculation-system.html

If you have not done so already then turn thermostats up to 140 degrees. You may also try to drain and flush tank to clean out any mineral deposits that could be hurting your effiency. To do this shut off electrical power to heater then connect garden hose to drain valve on the bottom of tank. Run hose to floor drain or other safe area and open drain valve. If it drains good with the water on then let it flush for a couple of mins. then shut incoming water supply off. Let tank drain as far as it will. You may need to open a faucet on the hot side of nearby fixture to break vacumn.
Drain it completly then close drain valve and hot side of faucet.Turn water supply back on and let tank refill. Do this 2-3 times to get inside of tank as clean as possible. Hope this helps you and thanks. P.S. You may need to replace thermostat also.

Its time to replace the heating elements. 90% of the time it's going to be the bottom element, but if you're going to drain it anyway, elements are only $10.00 to $12.00 I would go ahead and replace them both. Replacing the elements is simple just follow these steps.

Step 1: Turn off the power to the water heater.
Step 2: Turn off the cold water valve supplying the water to the heater.
step 3: Drain the water heater there are a few steps to proper draining, connect a hose to the drain port on the lower front of the heater and open the drain valve (remember its gravity drain so downhill all the way) pull up on the pop off handle to relief the pressure in the tank and to let air in so it can start draining also open the hot water valves in your tubs and showers (the more air you can get in the faster it will drain)
Step 4: Undo the 2 wires connected to the heating elements and unscrew the element counter clockwise until it comes out of the tank (they make a socket type tool for removing the elements it's real cheap and can be found at any Home Depot)
Step 5: Take the elements to Home Depot (or any hardware store) and find the exact replacements also get a 1/2" roll or Teflon tape.
Step 6: Teflon tape the threads on the elements (with the threads facing you apply the Teflon tape clockwise) about 4 times around the threads is good.
Step 7: Reinsert the elements into the holes and snug them up tight. (Clockwise) Not supper tight
Step 8: Reconnect the wires to the elements they are 220 volts so there is no neutral either wire to either screw is fine.
step 9: Close the drain valve a disconnect the hose make sure the pop off is closed and turn the water back on leave the tubs and showers on until the tank is filled and air quits coming out of them . Check around the elements for leaks if you see a leak simply snug it up a bit more.
Step 10: Set temp to 125 or whatever you find efficient, replace element covers and turn the power back on and you're all set.

Also check that by-pass valve(s) is/are, in proper position at back of tank.

Possible thermostat problem. Are you experienced enough in that area to do some testing. Have a multimeter? If not experienced, don't try it, too dangerous. Call in a service person.

Make sure you have power going to elements from thermostats. check lines going to elements.

Luke warm water is the result of an element gone bad most of the time. One at th etop gone will cause you to get just luke warm water and one at the bottom gone will give you real hot and then cold.


The elements are not to exspensive so if it has two you might as well replace both of them. If you just put 1 new one in it will work the old one till it goes.

Cut power off and cut water off to water heater and drain heater, open hot side on any faucet to help it drain. once drained remove element they have a tube type socket at hardware stores for the removal of it.

Put elements in and fill water heater till all air is out of lines before turning power back on. make sure water is flowing out of all faucets before turning power onto water heater.

The reason being is the elements has to be in water not open air in tank or it will blow new ones.