When a amp is hooked up wrong on the power in side and is blown (vr600d) and needs repair by a factory service how do they charge and is it cheaper to just but a new one or do the reairs

In involved fuses #5 & #10 15 amp in main fuse panel

from Ford Service cd
http://www.fordcds.com/
Fault Code 12


Air Bag Deployment Circuit Drop in Battery Voltage


Circuit Description


Normal Operation

The diagnostic monitor measures the voltage at pin 13 of the diagnostic monitor connector. Voltage at pin 13 should be equal to battery voltage. If the voltage measured at pin 13 drops to less than 9 volts, the diagnostic monitor will flash out code 12.


Possible Causes

A drop in battery voltage at diagnostic monitor pin 13 can be caused by:

1.An open circuit that would prevent battery voltage from reaching diagnostic monitor pin 13.

NOTE:
If the instrument panel fuse and/or the power distribution fuse are blown, be sure to diagnose the system for possible causes 2 and 3 below.

2.A short to ground in Circuit 611 (W/O) or 612 (P/O) may result in a blown instrument panel fuse and/or power distribution fuse.

3.An internal short to ground within the safing sensor may result in a blown instrument panel fuse and/or power distribution fuse.

4.A problem in the charging system causing battery voltage to drop below 9 volts.

This means it is blown. Whenever the power light flashes on any amp it is blown or something else is wrong with it. Most likely its blown. You can blow am amp by hooking it up to a powerful sub and blaring it, or just overheating it. Hope this helps. This can usually be fixed as well

Sorry... you likely have one of the power amp channels bad as well. One does NOT replace the power supply, instead repair it. You need a competent repair shop. I can tell you what parts are blown on the supply. They cost about $30 max for parts to repair the power supply. There usually is about $15 of parts blown on the amp that caused the problem and significant labor to repair the amp portion. If the smoke was dark or heavy, it was likely from the 0.03 ohm metering resistor on the bottom of the amp circuit board that caused the original problem. If one replaces the power supply and turns power on they will find one side of the amp doesn't work and MAY blow the power supply again immediately. I have repaired several of these units and have walked others through the repair sequence as well. You can contact me directly by email for more info if you need it. Unless you can find a competent repair shop that replaces components, including work on surface mounted boards, the cost of the module parts AND availability will preclude repair. The amp module is another $155 after the power supply is repaired if a channel is bad and one chooses to replace rather than repair.

No, that is NOT what the problem is.

The fuse protects the power supply. The power amps have failed. The usual cause is an arc between layers of the multi-layer circuit board. The labor to repair the power amp module is extensive. I have repaired several.

You can find new amp modules and I would purchase a new one and drop into your unit. The amp module is an HCA2400.

There is probably $15 of parts blown in each side of the power amp and it takes about 6 hours to repair. One has to grind out the burned area (internal layers not necessarily visible on surface) and re-insulate and then install jumper wires to replace those taken out.

Each side of the amp will likely take out 3 switching MOSFET transistors and often a Zener diode. Sometimes a low resistance metering resistor will be fried with smoky residue underneath the board. When this happens two small surface mounted resistors will be blown open. Great care has to be taken when insulating the board damage and replacement of the blown circuit traces.

You can find HCA2400 power amp module replacements for about $175 online.

Use of the unit as an unpowered mixer is a bit dangerous as if arc re-establishes it can fry the power supply taking out two very expensive IGBT's and many other components. If the mixer still works, then your whole power supply is still OK.

Hopefully all you blew was some fuses. Need to check all fuses under dash & in relay/fuse box underhood. Easiest way, hook up test light to ground & test across all fuses. If blown 1 side of fuse will get power,but not the other side.

Could be battery contact issue, or a blown power circuit. Try PhotoTech Repair Service, in NYC. They are factory authorized for most repairs, and are able to do warranty service in house. You can ship them your unit and, they are usually faster than the manufacturer, and cheaper! Plus if you join their facebook fan page they give you a 10% discount.
Here in the link to the facebook page, it has all the info you need.

http://www.facebook.com/pages/New-York-NY/Cell-Phone-Repair-NYC/312054784441

Hope it helps!

It could be the speaker output or the amp input. If you have a headphone socket on the amp try headphones and hear if it's the same problem.

If it's the amp's power output then this can be repaired. It's a case of unsoldering the blown transistor or integrated amp chip and soldering in a new one. It's not hard but you need to find someone competent.

He probably needed to disconnect the battery to perform a repair or diagnostic. Then, as it is not factory, did not hook the power wire back up.

If you are certain speaker isnt blown and you have correct phase wiring and so forth you have whats called a solder jump which is internal repair by dealer only! buy a new amp at dealer wholesale price here cheaper than having it repaired unless under warranty go here for wholesale pricing on almost everything audio wise:
www.godspeedaudioheaven.com

Dear friend,
ngfam at you service! happy to assist!

If there is no power at all then perhaps the fuse is blown in the microwave.
How old is it?
The magnetron tube could be burned out! and its cheaper to buy a new one usually!

We sell appliances for 65 years and I recommend this nation wide Factory repair service!



Call A&E Factory Service /They service nation wide
And are available 24/7 for making appointments!

If the appliance is 10 years old or more,it may make sense not to invest any money to fix it!

Happy to assist you,
PLEASE GIVE ME A GOOD RATING BEFORE YOU SIGN OFF!