20 Most Recent LG DLE2514 Electric Dryer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Hi,
There are a number of things that can cause an electric dryer not to heat...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3866345-dryer_troubleshooting_electric_dryer_won
Also check out this tip..
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4312805-dryer_maintenance

heatman101

Hello. these problems are related. You will have to pull your dryer out from the wall and remove the vent hose. Then check inside the dryer where that hose connects and remove lint. Do the same through out the entire length of the hose and finally go out doors where that dryer vents to the out doors and remove any lint in the exhaust there. Joe

light bulbs will give out at anytime although I think it blew when your timer relay shorted out.

that is wht it will not start

The popping noise could have been one of a multitude of issues (e.g.: short circuit in wiring, fuse, etc. Contact an appliance service company.

If you move the cord @ the outlet and the dryer shuts off replace outlet if the prongs on the cord are not damaged.

If you wiggle at the dryer side and it shuts off un plug the dryer remove acess cover and inspect end of cord. Ck. and make sure terminal nuts are tight. and not burnt due to a loose connection.

Please check and clean the vent from the dryer to the outside.

Make sure the vent hose is not smashed behind the dryer,.

The moisture sensor is in the lint filter. Remove 4 screws from inside the drum and you have the sensor attached by 2 wires. On my dryer I disconnected then reconnected these 2 wires, reassembled the lint trap and auto dry works fine again

The moisture sensor is in the lint filter. If you use a mirror you will see 2 curved metal strips embedded in the plastic frame at the bottom of the lint filter. You can also remove the whole assembly with 4 screws for a proper cleaning. If you do this you should also remove the wires and then reconnect them to ensure a proper connection.

The moisture sensor is in the lint filter. Remove 4 screws from inside the drum and you have the sensor attached by 2 wires. On my dryer I disconnected then reconnected these 2 wires, reassembled the lint trap and auto dry works fine again.

It is in the lint filter. Remove 4 screws from inside the drum and you have the sensor attached by 2 wires. On my dryer I disconnected then reconnected these 2 wires, reassembled the lint trap and auto dry works fine again.

Remove the humidity sensor by taking off the lint trap inside the door. There are 4 philips head screws then the sensor is attached with 2 wire connectors. Pull these off then reattach and reassemble the lint trap. I did this on mine and it works fine now. There must have been some corrosion or a poor connection on one of these wires.

Hi,
Understanding that you have already replaced the breaker try to take the dryer apart and clean out the lint, you will also have an opportunity to replace any worn-out parts like the belt, or heating elements . The only possibilities are could be bad breaker, motor, element or shorted wire
Please ask us doubts if any.
Thanks for contacting fixya.com

lint buildup inside,clean it-mike

The heating element have got old and brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost. But it is not always the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for continuity by using a meter set on Ohms,or use a poor man's meter. You can make your own poor man's meter by using an ordinary flashlight . Break the circuit in the flashlight and add a couple of wires to it so that you can make the light come on in the flashlight, that's right hot wire that flashlight. When the bulb lights up you have a circuit! You now have a poor man's meter. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the limits attached to the side of the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.should have continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poor man's meter) If you come across an thing near the blower housing with 2 wires attached to it, that is a thermal limit, a safety or a control thermostat (So as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of the wires to each thing you check) Look for lint buildup or blocked vent going out the house. If everything is good and you have paid the electric bill, then the timer could be bad.

It's either the belt, or the motor has failed. Do you hear the motor running when you turn the unit on? If so, then it's probably the belt. If not, then it may be the motor.

I started researching on here because I was having the same problems with my LG dryer. (It also happens to be the same model.) I discovered the vent hose was kinked.

With the lights, the cycle it's on that blinks. When your dryer gets to the last 5 minutes, the "Cooling" light will blink and the "Drying" light will go off. If you have the "Wrinkle" setting on after the 5 minute cooling cycle, the wrinkle cycle will start and circular lights will show where the minutes normally are displayed and the Wrinkle light will blink.

.I am not a repair professional. I am a 78 year old man
who has been making his own repairs for about 50 years. So the washer or dryer ID doesn't mean much to me. I came to fixya looking for a schematic for an really old AM/FM radio and found that more than 4,700 people were asking for help with a washer repair. I recently had a washer repair of my own and at that time I found an excellent video which showed me how to take my machine apart. This video made it possible for me to do my own repair. If you are repairing a dryer or a front load washer I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good step by step trouble shooting and repair information on both washers and dryers as well as other appliances. If you have a direct drive top load washer and need help taking it apart this video is an early christmas present. I was so impressed with it that when I saw all these people needing help, I wanted to tell them about it. If you look at the back of your washer and the panel is solid (no small inspection plate to remove which would indicate you have a v-belt drive) chances are you have a direct drive and this video is just what you need. You can see it at www.acmehowto.com You will probably still need help in determining what the trouble is and how to fix it. After viewing the video or if you have a v-belt drive rather than a direct drive, I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good
trouble shooting and repair nformation on most
washers and dryers. I think you'll find what you need
there. Don't worry about the timer, they hardly ever
go bad. Good luck with it. If I have helped you, please rate my advice on fixya.