20 Most Recent Canon PowerShot SD790 IS/ IXUS 90 IS Digital Camera Questions & Answers

Your solutions are varied, but the results will be (mostly) the same. Option 1: Lower the resolution and quality settings on your camera. If you are seeing 3-4 MB per photo, then they are probably at least 4000 pixels wide, and your file size will be larger to reflect that. If you set the camera to a lower quality and or resolution, you will for sure save disk space. Consequently, you will also lose image quality. If you are mainly archiving the photos for the purpose of viewing them online, on your PC, or through a digital picture frame, this is no big deal. If you intend to print, especially a large print, you will see pixelation occur in the print. This will take smooth parts of your picture and chunk colors together in a "boxy" appearance. Your second option, is to import your photos in a program like Google Picasa or many other free options, and then convert your image to a compressed format, such as a compressed JPEG or PNG file. PNG files are usually the better choice for file size, but not every devices (frames, TVs, etc.) recognize PNG files. So you may want to stick with JPEG depending on your use for your photos. Additionally, you can lower the resolution of hi-res photos within Picasa (or its alternatives) after importing the photos. This is the preferred route as you can take every photo like you want to print it as a poster, and then choose which photos to drop the resolution. This gives you the safety of shooting each picture as if you want to keep the quality and then later decide which are worth archiving at what resolution. Remember, the detail in a photo also reflects upon its size, not just resolution, if you take one 12 MP picture of the sky and another of a bunch of different color balloons, the balloon will have more color data and thus a higher file size.

Red eye reduction doesn't work that well on cameras. You would be better off importing your photos into a program like Picasa and fixing the red eyes there. Picasa's red eye removal is one of the best out there and very simple to use. What you could also try is diffusing the flash somewhat. Put a piece of tissue paper over your flash is one way to do it. Or try bouncing the light from the flash off the ceiling with a piece of card (I've even used a piece of torn paper plate to do this)

Page 157 of the manual, starts with the print settings of the pictures.In the DPOF settings you can chose for dat and time on and of. More settings on date and time are on the following pages.The manual is online.

Try NOT connecting your camera to your computer.The best way to download pictures from your camera to your computer involves removing the memory card from the camera and plugging it into a card reader (either built-in to the computer or connected via USB or FireWire). This is likely to be faster than connecting the camera to the computer, and won't run down your camera's batteries.Once the card is plugged in, it will appear to your computer as a removable drive. You can use the operating system's drag&drop facility to copy pictures from the card to the computer's hard drive, the same way you copy any other files. Or you can use any photo cataloging program such as Picasa ( http://picasa.google.com ).

I think the best solution is to tell everyone what the actual problem is not by saying web cam used

Hello

The problem is that the lens has become stuck in the barrel. There are some DIY solutions you could try, but the probability is that you will have to get it fixed by a professional.

Use these at own risk as it may further damage the camera.

Firstly , try connecting your ac adapter or usb cable.

Try holding the shutter button while switching on the camera.

Look at the lens , and if some of the lens 'circles' is misaligned or not concentric then try wiggling it (while holding camera lens down).

Try gently pushing or pulling the lens when it extends but this is risky as it may cause the lens barrel to slip out of its guidance system.

Another way to do this is to place the camera lens down on a hard surface and then power it up. Be sure to use a soft cloth or something similar as to not scratch your lens or casing. Let the lens push the camera up and down a few times and sometimes the little resistance provided by the camera is enough to get things going again.

Try hitting your camera near the lens on the body with the soft tissue on the palm of your hand.

Other than that , I would take the camera to a repair centre for a evaluation to see if it would cost more to repair than to replace the camera.

If it is still under warranty I would suggest you take it in before trying any of these steps and remove any off-brand batteries or accessories as some stores are really fussy about warranty repairs on camera's with non-brand accessories.

You can also have a look at THIS link.

Hope the advise is useful. please do not hesitate to let me know if you need any further assistance. Also, please be so kind to let me know if you found this helpful.

Regards
Andrea

Just to be sure, you are taking the battery out of the camera and putting it into the charger?

Maybe you are recording at a lower frame rate(ex: 15fps) and it is played back at a higher frame rate(ex: 30fps)?

There is probably dirt in the camera that restricts operation, the other concern is damaged gears, camera is trying to focus.

Consider NOT connecting your camera to your computer.

The best way to download pictures from your camera to your computer involves removing the memory card from the camera and plugging it into a card reader (either built-in to the computer or connected via USB or FireWire). This is likely to be faster than connecting the camera to the computer, and won't run down your camera's batteries.

Once the card is plugged in, it will appear to your computer as a removable drive. You can use the operating system's drag&drop facility to copy pictures from the card to the computer's hard drive, the same way you copy any other files. Or you can use ZoomBrowser or any other photo cataloging program.

This blog post outlines repair procedures for stuck automatic lens covers, and gives several examples on disassembly and reassembly. However, if you find that you are missing some pieces, you probably have already noticed that the camera works just fine without the lens cover. In that case, maybe consider leaving the shutters removed, and simply installing the outer lens ring to improve the camera's appearance. And pay a little extra care in protecting the lens, possibly by storing and carrying the camera in a camera case.

If your camera still works, then I recommend that you don't worry about it. Just be sure to keep your fingers off the lens and occasionally blow or brush off the dust. Fixing the problem would be very expensive.

Fixing a Lens Error on a Digital Camera

This has to be THE most common failure mode for a digital camera. Some common error messages that might show up on the LCD's of cameras with this problem include "E18 lens error", or "lens error, restart camera". Some cameras might show nothing at all, but merely make a beeping noise as the lens goes out, then in, then the camera shuts off. Sometimes the lens won't even move.

The problem is actually quite common throughout all camera brands. Usually it's sand or grit interfering with the lens extension mechanism. Or the camera's been dropped with the lens extended. Or the camera has been powered on, but the lens had been blocked preventing its extension. Or the battery ran down with the lens extended. Believe it or not, one BIG contributor to lens errors is using a camera case. Sand, gunk, case fibers, etc... accumulate at the bottom of the case. These materials love to cling to the camera by electrostatic build-up from the camera rubbing against the side of the case (especially those cases with soft fibrous interiors). Once these materials work their way into the lens mechanism, that's all she wrote. I have many cameras, and NEVER use a case for this very reason.

A camera owner that suffers this problem may have no recourse for having the camera repaired. Many camera makers will not honor repairing this problem under warranty as they claim it is due to impact damage to the camera, or sand or debris getting into the lens gearing mechanism (neither of which is covered under warranty). The quoted repair cost is usually close to or more than what the camera is actually worth.

Fortunately, about half the cameras that suffer this failure can easily be fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods involve opening the camera, although some have potential to cause other damage to the camera if excessively done. If the camera is still under warranty, before trying any of these, please please first contact your camera's maker to see if they'll cover the repair, or to determine how much they'll charge for the repair. Who knows, you might get lucky. But if they quote you a number that's higher than the value of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods.

The methods are listed in the order of risk of damaging your camera. Thus make sure you try them in the listed order. And remember, these fixes (especially #6 and 7) should only be considered for a camera that's out of warranty, who's cost of repair would be excessive, and would otherwise be considered for disposal if unrepaired:

Fix #1: Remove the batteries from the camera, wait a few minutes. Put a fresh set of batteries back in (preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500mah or better) and turn the camera on. If that didn't work, try pressing and holding the Function or OK button while turning the camera on.

Fix #2: Remove the batteries, then remove the memory card. Then install new batteries, and turn on the camera. If you get an Error E30, it means you don't have a memory card installed, so turn it off, slip in the memory card and turn it on one last time.

Fix #3: Insert the cameras Audio/Video (AV) cable, and turn the camera on. Inserting this cable ensures that the camera's LCD screen remains off during the start process. Thus extra battery power is available to the camera's lens motor during startup. This extra power can be useful in overcoming grit or sand particles that may be jamming the lens. If the AV cable doesn't fix the lens error by itself, consider keeping this cable installed while trying fixes 4, 5, and 7 as a means to provide extra help to these fixes. But note that I DON'T recommend keeping the cable installed during Fix 6 as you may damage the AV port while tapping the camera. Reinsert the cable only AFTER tapping the camera.

Fix #4: Place the camera flat on its back on a table, pointed at the ceiling. Press and hold the shutter button down, and at the same time press the power-on button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is extending, hopefully seating the lens barrel guide pins in their slots.

Fix #5: Blow compressed air in the gaps around the lens barrels with the idea of blowing out any sand or grit that may be in there jamming the lens. Other variations include blowing with a hair dryer in "no heat" setting, or sucking the gaps with a vacuum (careful with this one).

Now we're entering into the realm of potentially damaging your camera in conducting the fix. There is definitely some risk here, so take care when conducting the following two fixes.

Fix #6: Repeatedly tap the padded/rubber usb cover on a hard surface with the intent of dislodging any particles that may be jamming the lens. Other variations include hitting a side of the camera against the palm of your hand. A lot of people have reported success with this method. HOWEVER, there is also some potential for damaging or dislodging internal components with this method, such as unseating ribbon cables, or cracking LCD screens.

Fix #7: Try forcing the lens. More people have reported success with this method than with any of the other methods. HOWEVER, there's obviously some potential for damaging your camera by using this method. Variations include gently pulling, rotating, and/or twisting the lens barrel while hitting the power button. Attempt to gently straighten or align the barrel if it's crooked or twisted. Another variation includes looking for uneven gaps around the lens barrel, and then pushing on the side of the lens barrel that has the largest gap (note pushing the lens barrel all the way in is NOT recommended as it may become stuck there). While doing any of the above, listen for a click that indicates that the lens barrel guide pins may have reseated in their guide slots. If you hear this click, immediately stop and try the camera.

Lens errors are fairly common. Usually it's sand or grit interfering with the lens extension mechanism. Or the camera's been dropped with the lens extended. Or the camera has been powered on, but the lens had been blocked preventing its extension. Or the battery ran down with the lens extended ... Here are some troubleshooting steps that you can try that may (or may not) correct it. They only seem to work for less than 40% of the lens errors, but if the camera is out of warranty (or repair cost approaches that of the camera), they're worth that try. Some of the later steps do involve some risk to the camera, so carefully weigh your options before deciding to conduct them:

You can download the manual at
http://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/1/0300000871/01/PSSD790IS_IXUS90IS_CUG_EN.pdf

There is a place in the menu to select the desired motion for
recording. Search through the menu listings and you will find
it.

I would check the main board...it has a bad connection or a capacitor gone bad..somewhere ..where it do not affects the main functions ..the lens mechanism is using power from the main board...and if it is shorted somewhere it will explain the behavior ..So ..if you can replace it ..or take it step by step with a measurement tool ..and see where the issue is ..If it is a connection .. you can detect it if you have patience ..and measure part by part ..(keep in mind that it is a power issue ..)

Hello.

Since you already replaced the LCD screen and assuming you installed it properly, then it could only be that the mainboard is faulty. You can contact Canon for mainboard replacement but the price might be more expensive that buying a new digital camera. So be sure to check the prices of new digital cameras before deciding to order a mainboard.

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