Top 20 Hitachi EC12 Portable Electric 2hp Air Compressor, Oil Lubricated Questions & Answers

if you replaced capacitor exactly like it was remove and no wires switched you have a bad motor.

The EC12 holds 8 ounces I recommend synthetic

This problem is caused by either the starter capacitor or the in-tank check valve. Ez to check. With no air in tank, start compressor; if motor hums or has difficulty suspect capacitor. If motor starts, partially fill tank and unplug the power. Check for air leaking at the pressure switch or air coming out of the air inlet (remove the air filter). If air leaking, replace check valve. If no air leaking, again let out all the from the tank and connect power. Allow the compressor to fill and shut-off. After the compressor fills, again listen for air leaking from the pressure switch unloader valve. If air continues to leak from unloader, replace the check valve. Good luck

The starter capacitor is on the electric motor and is a round shape

The head pressure is released thru the needle unloader valve at the pressure switch. Notice a 1/4 inch plastic tube (or metal) running from the intank check valve to the pressure switch. After pressure switch reaches set pressure a small tang moves up and presses on the needle valve releasing the pressure. Only a small amount of air will be released. If however air continues to escape from the needle valve, then the check valve is bad.

Does compressor have oil in reservoir? If not, add oil. Also the switch may have gone bad.

Put in the best grade oil for small high RPM engines

Check the circuit breaker reset located under the shroud above the dipstick. If the unit hums but won't turn, first drain the air completely and then try it (If it starts, your problem is most likely the check valve located on the tank) 2) Unplug it and carefully use a thin screwdriver to turn the fan blade - if it spins and is not bound then try it again. If it still doesn't start I would look at the start capacitor located under the shroud

The EC12 actually draws approximately 15.5 amps when starting, so you are best served to use without extention cord on a 20 amp circuit. One thing that will improve operation, is to use 5w-50 full sinthetic oil. Fill to notch in dipstick. If possible change your overload switch to a 20 amp. It is currently a 15 amp. (cause right there for continual overload). I unplugged my reset button and added a piece of #12 coated wire as a jumper (do this at your own risk), but I've been fine for three years now. #12 wire fits right into the clips that attach to the reset button. Good luck.

I would not worry. Drain the tank completely, and check the oil in the compressor, top off if necessary. Watch it for the first cycle.

Find the pressure switch. Remove the cover and loosen the spring loaded nuts on-till the switch opens. Readjust for the pressure you need. Keep it below the amp rating on the motor to keep the breaker from tripping. (RLA or FLA).

possibly a bad capacitor or motor

Most P/C compressors shut off at 150psi. If the pressure switch is bad, the pressure will rise until the safety pops. If the safety is not opening, then most likely the cylinder / piston ring is worn to the point that pressure will not increase past safety range (cylinder could be scratched near top ). If cylinder and piston are ok, then air is leaking somewhere (check all joints with soapy water). Good luck

It sounds like your car ran out of oil and the engine seized

With a 110, you do not need a Capacitor

look for a bad start capacitor.

Bad cord or pressure switch maybe

First you have to remove the motor/pump assembly from the frame to get access to the motor housing screws. You'll have to remove the infeed tube. The power cord from the pressure switch may or may not have to be removed depending on how much slack there is. Remove the motor housing and the fan is right there bolted/screwed to the armature.