Honeywell HCM-300T Humidifier - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Does it have a collection tray , that needs to be emptied first.

Why not just repair the crack with a product like Devcon Weldit? Stuff works great for sealing cracks and is waterproof.

Yes, there is. Routine maintenance is important. Mix a 50/50 solution of White Vinegar and Bottled Distilled Water and fill the tank with it. Run the humidifier until the tank is 1/2 empty. Then empty the remaining solution and refill the tank 1/2 way with Bottled Distilled Water and run it until it's empty. This will flush the entire system of the previous 50/50 solution. If you can access the fresh air intake, clean that using a can of compressed air with a straw nozzle (like you clean your computer with) to blow out the accumulated dust. Be sure the unit is completely dry before storing it.

If more folks would do this, they wouldn't have problems in the Fall & Winter.

Thanks for your question,
Sounds to me like you have something partially cloging the misting nozzle, if you can take the nozzle off, and check it I would bet there is something that got in there, if you cant, it might be better to just return the Humidifier where purchased for an exchange, if you can get the nozzle off, if you have a can of compressed air like they sell for dusting off computers, I would use a very short burst of that in the nozzle, and in the feed line, thanks again for your question, let me know how it works out,
mr.grzz

The ability of the humidifier to maintain a given moisture content in the air is far more difficult than a heat or cooling unit to heat or cool the air.

Moisture vapor has far more energy to seek dryer air, than tempered air. So the moisture seeks and finds dryer air quickly, whether it be through stair and door ways, or through cracks and seams in walls and doors/windows, or through non vapor barrier surfaces.

The only way the unit would be able to achieve a humidity level as stated, is for the unit to be placed in a vapor-tite room that has a minimal of leakage.

You could put more humidifiers in the space, or more and larger humidifiers in the space, to try and overcome the vapor moving to other areas of the space. But unless you have a fairly vaportite space, it is unlikely the unit is under capacity, and the only way to test what capacity is needed is to take humidity measurements.

Reply back with any questions you may have.

This happened to me the second night of use.  Water all over the carpet and a dripping vent. I called customer service and they told me to remove the tank and filter, and run unit dry for an hour or so. Then restart it.  Worked fine after that.  I think we may have bumped it which is said to be the cause of most leaks.  Bummer is that after 5 night of use the grip on water tank slipped and the tank is in pieces.

http://www.humidifierfilters.com/parts4models.php?brand=honeywell&model=hcm-300t

You can order a new tank through this link.

Good Luck

Q: My unit has been running for several hours. I hear the fan spinning, but I do not notice the water level in the tank decreasing.
A: First, check the filter to ensure it is wet. If the pad appears dry, remove it from the Base and gently rinse under cool water. Reposition wet filter in the Base. You may also want to note the current moisture level in your home. If the humidity level is over 60% the unit will not put out much moisture
as your air is already saturated.

UV bulb and filter are user replacement items

see manual from my other post
Owners manual LINK
Comment by Soulvisitor, posted on Jan 20, 2008 You should notice moisture on the widows in the room after unit has run for awile, this unit carries a 3 year warranty. More info coming...
Comment by Soulvisitor, posted on Jan 20, 2008 see this
Comment by Soulvisitor, posted on Jan 20, 2008 If water level in tank is dropping and fan runs then I'd say it is working.

OK?
Comment by Soulvisitor, posted on Jan 20, 2008 Q: I hear the fan turning, but I don’t see any mist. Is my humidifier operating properly?
A: Dry air is pulled through the system and a fan disperses invisible, moisture balanced air. There is no
“mist” emitted. When operating normally you will feel only cool air coming from the unit. Monitor the
water level in your Tank/ Base. If you notice a decrease in the Water Tank over 24 hours then the unit
is operating normally.

well these dont work in winter 1st off if heater is on were u from try to wigle the water buket on it just right so sits in and turns on sum sensor toucjy the way they sit in

solonoid valve not shutting off on water line .

Question edited for clarity, hemostat to humidistat. A hemostat (also called a hemostatic clamp, arterial forceps, or pean after Jules-?mile P?an) is a surgical tool used in many surgical procedures to control bleeding. (Hemo - Blood) For that you will need dealer service. The only thing you can try is a Power Reset. Turn off the power to it by removing the power lead for at least two hours to reset the control board. https://www.google.com/search?q=Honeywell+Trueease+HE+250a-1005+short+cycling ..

It sounds like the wiring for the humidifier may not be correct. The solenoid valve, which controls the flow of water to the humidifier, should be wired to the humidistat and the transformer, not to the furnace or fan. It is possible that the bottom wire of the solenoid is connected to the wrong terminal on the transformer or humidistat, or that the top wire is connected to the wrong terminal on the humidistat. I recommend consulting the installation instructions for your specific humidifier model, or consulting a professional HVAC technician to verify the correct wiring.

The drive belt is broken then and it needs to be replaced.

Sounds like the high pitched noise is coming from the solenoid valve which allows water to enter the humidifier. Typically when the water pressure is too high, it causes this high pitched sound at the solenoid valve. You can adjust the water pressure a little at a time and see if it helps, just make sure you’re getting enough water across the water panel.

You may be able to get a schematic from Honeywell that shows the connection points.

The obvious solution is to replace the humidifier that became defective while in storage.

Very first thing. If it won’t turn on, unplug it, and check the cord....especially if you have, or have had, a rabbit that has already chewed through every other wired devices you have ie: TV, satellite dishes, DVD players, other electrical cords.
I got my humidifier year before last and only used it a few times that year. Our humidity was fine until now, so the humidifier was still new as far as I was concerned. I checked every online help suggestion before I remembered Buster. Sure enough....exposed and partially chew wiring. I thanked God that I hadn’t been shocked.
Thank you, Daddy, for teaching this 70 year old grandma how to splice wiring and install other electrical wiring when I was a teenager. I miss you so much.
CAUTION: UNLESS YOU KNOW EXACTLY HOW TO SPLICE WIRING DON’T THINK YOU CAN FIGURE IT OUT. TAKE YOUR APPLIANCE TO A SPECIALIST TO GET A BRAND NEW WIRE PLACED ON YOUR APPLIANCE. I CANNOT EMPHASIZE THIS ENOUGH. IN FACT, TAKE IT TO AN ELECTRICIAN ANYWAY.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=Kip+INC+Solenoid+valve+Honeywell+32001876+U147112

Needs to be wired to work on the blower circuit. You must be drawing power from a source that is always on

That means it is time to replace the UV bulb.