20 Most Recent Whirlpool ED2FHEXN Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Willn2try. On the indoor ice maker the immitter board and receiver board will determine when to send power to the module. This is probably why you are not reading any voltage on your test points. When the thermostat closes, the emitter board sends out a infared pulse. If the path of the pulse is not blocked (like no ice in the bin) it will then send power to the module and start a cycle. Since you stated the optics are good, try testing for your voltage by holding down the left side receiver board, light switch and do not block the beam. You can bypass the thermostat by jump starting the cycle. Place a jumper in T&H, place the IM on a shelf out of the way of the boards. Close the door and unplug the refer for 30 seconds. Plug the refer back in and wait 45 seconds. When you open the door the cycle should be started. Cativer

The ice making unit needs to be cleaned with a mild acid such as citric acide like commercially available Ice Machine Cleaner. minerals have built up and make the ice stick to where they will not harvest properly.

you and many others have this problem . ( tip remove bin and rinse out with warm water dry it well and the door area also then the majic ... spray the dispenser with ( pam ) without the butter . clean and slick . this should help . mm

Please check on the website of Whirlpool for all service centres located in your region.there is a toll free number where you can register your complaint and get follow up. Chek this out. Helpful ? Have a nice day.

This may not be the problem now but by the sound of the malfunctioning unit, it could be in the future. The start device on some models of refridgerator for maytag and whirlpool have been recalled. If your appliance was manufactured in the last 5-10 years you may be having an issue with this component. Mine recently caught on fire at this device that is located near the compressor. If you would like to be a part of the petition for a recall on this appliance contact me at [email protected] judging from the smell you are encountering, the device could already be malfunctioning

This may not be the problem now but by the sound of the malfunctioning ice maker, it could be in the future. The start device on some models of refridgerator for maytag and whirlpool have been recalled. If your appliance was manufactured in the last 5-10 years you may be having an issue with this component. Mine recently caught on fire at this device that is located near the compressor. If you would like to be a part of the petition for a recall on this appliance contact me at [email protected]

This may not be the problem now but, it could be in the future. The start device on some models of refridgerator for maytag and whirlpool have been recalled. If your appliance was manufactured in the last 5-10 years you may be having an issue with this component. Mine recently caught on fire at this device that is located near the compressor. If you would like to be a part of the petition for a recall on this appliance contact me at [email protected]

The start device on some models of refridgerator for maytag and whirlpool have been recalled. If your appliance was manufactured in the last 5-10 years you may be having an issue with this component. Mine recently caught on fire at this device that is located near the compressor. If you would like to be a part of the petition for a recall on this appliance contact me at [email protected]

Usually there are just plastic tabs holding it in, all you need to do is just grab the edge of the kick plate and gently pull it away from the refridgerator until the tabs are released.

HI. Just so you know, Hissing and popping is normal on frost free refrigerators, it is the defrost heater, in this case. I would check these following areas to address any other abnormal noises.

If the level of the unit is not adjusted to proper specs, this will create an unstable operating condition, causing many noises to emit from the units structure. inspect the unit for proper level. adjust if needed. Next will be the drain pan. Once removed for cleaning, the pan must be replaced in position correctly. If not, the pan will rattle against the compressor, causing a ping or rattle.Simply reposition the tray if this is the case. The third possible issue will be the condenser fan. The condenser fan is located behind the refrigerator. It may be necessary to remove an access panel to reach it. This fan has a shroud, and if the fan blade becomes warped, it will rub against the shroud, causing noise. This fan blade is whole,and it can be removed and replaced if this is the case. Ok, the fourth problem spot will be the evaporator fan.

The evaporator fan is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear inside panel of the freezer. The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. Check the fan for warped blades. if the blades are warped or mis-aligned, replace it. This fan also is protected by a shroud as well, and it will make noise if the fan blade is damaged.

Last, i would move on to the compressor mounts. This is the most common spot for noise overtime. The compressor sits on rubber mountings. Those rubber mountings are designed to absorb vibration from the compressor. As the mountings age, they can become hard or disintegrate. When this happens, the compressor vibration is transmitted to the refrigerator structure and it can cause noise.


The compressor is located in the rear. It may be necessary to remove an access panel to get to the compressor.

Locate the compressor and remove the screw or retaining clip of just one of the compressor mounts.Using a pry bar, lift up the compressor enough to slip out the rubber mount. Inspect the mount for deterioration. The rubber should be firm but not rigid. If the mount is crumbling or hard, it should be replaced.


This concludes the inspection procedure. Follow carefully, and replace any failed or damaged device.

First try a new water filter. If doesn't help, this is often caused by a piercing type saddle valve used to tap into water supply. Try turning it all the way off and on again. If dosn't help, you should replace with a drill type saddle valve. Also try to use copper for water line to unit.

With ice makers it is almost always one of two things. The ice maker itself, or the water valve (valve is located on the backside of the frig, bottom right hand side almost 100% of the time). Figuring out which one is easy, and I will help explain.

First thing is the frig has to be cold enough for the ice maker to even start working. I'm assuming we have the cold part taken care of. Next, the machine will start a cycle and ask for water. Here is where the valve comes in. The ice maker energizes the valve and it opens allowing water to rush up the back of the frig and into the ice maker. After the ice freezes the ice maker goes into harvest and dumps the ice.

In conclusion, you either have an ice maker that stalled at some point during that cycle (in which case you need a new ice maker). Or the water valve is not opening, thus no water enters the ice maker and you get zero ice.

Quick facts: If you have ice in the ice maker and it is not dumping, you need a new ice maker. If it is empty, you have to either wait for it to ask for water or manually advance the ice maker into cycle so you do not have to wait.

At this point you will hear the water valve energize or not. If it never energizes, the ice maker is not working right, if it energizes and you get squat, the valve needs to be replaced.

If you have experience with a multimeter you could detach the harness going to the ice maker and simply hook up your leads. When the ice maker asks for water, you should get 110v reading on the meter. If you do, the valve is bad and needs to be replaced.

If I can be of any further assistance please let me know. good luck!

Oh, and the valve probably sells for between $50 and $100 depending on where you buy it. The ice maker should run between $100 and $180.

P.S. There is a remote chance the filter needs to be replaced. An old filter can cause water pressure issues and you may not get enough water into the ice maker. However, if you still get water through a dispenser (if you have one) then this cannot be the case.

Hi,
There are a few reasons why the refrigerator part will not cool...here are a couple of tips that will help you to figure out why the refrigerantor is not cooling...

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3662945-refrigerator_not_cooling_or_fridge_not

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3771673-defrost_refrigerator_defrost_timer

heatman101

Hi Mickey, You have a bad water valve. Turn the water off to your unit and turn off the ice maker. Replace your inlet valve.

DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Use p/n 4317943

clean out the drain pipe with chlorine bleach,then see .