Amana PTH153B50AJ Heat Pump Air Conditioner - Page 11 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Amana aircondition window unit wouldnt turn on. E2 indicator light was on. I turned off breakers and turned them back on as suggested for an Amana furnace. Yay, it works now. Thank you.

Try checking the capacitor inside the electrical panel on the unit. Usually the capacitor will be swollen or even exploded if it is bad. To properly check it, you will need a meter that measures MFD's (microfarads). It will have an amount printed on the label. I have attached a picture of what they look like new. Hope this helps and good luck! WARNING! Capacitors store electricity. Also make sure all power is off before performing any work!

Hello, try spinning the outside fan with a stick or a small object you can spin the fsn blades with, if this gets the motor running the capacitor must be replaced. If the motor does not start by manually pushing it the motor will have to be replaced.

Hello, if the only way to shut off the motor is to turn off the main power then the relay on the integrated control board is faulty. You can try tapping on the relay to turn it off but eventually the board will need to be replaced.

Do you have it tilted back slightly towards the outside? It will drain on the inside if not tilted properly.

It needs charged

if it gets cold yes it has to have some type of freon and yes you can put gas in but will prob have to install some type of schrader valve and will require a proffesional.

A LOT OF TIMES YOU HAVE TO HOLD THE RED BUTTON IN FOR APPROX. I MINUTE AFTER IGNITION.

why connect with me ?

Have you checked the capacitor on the unit. You will need a capacitor meter in or to check it. nI would check it first then the board. You check the board by running the one lead to the fan terminal and the other lead to the common and see if you have voltage. If you do not have voltage then the board is bad.

Hi mlalunt,

Thank you for your question at Fixya,

The solution to your problem is as follows :-

From what you have described, the fault is not with the condenser and the blower and the control board have been replaced already.

Therefore in your case the most probable cause is the bad pressure switch.

So when you replace the pressure switch it will solve your problem.


Hope that helps ...:) In case you have any queries, feel free to contact me.

Marion, if there was a lightning strike and then a power surge when the power came back ON, I don't doubt what the servicemen had to say. The age of the unit plays no role in it, when something like this happens. Power surges can be killers to electrical appliances. That's why it always wise to turn the unit off during a power outage. Just ask anyone who was in Irene's path a couple of weeks ago. Power went out for days & weeks for some, when it came back ON, electrical appliances were damaged or ruined or started house fires.

Hope this helped you and thanks for choosing FixYa.

If you have adjusted the thermostat setting and the compressor still does not run, you may have some wiring, compressor, overload, or capacitor problem.

I think your PTAC is under charge, if the air filter is clean and the evaporator is also clean together with the blower. Check the freon charge and refill if suction pressure is below 50psi and discharge is below 190 psi.

sounds like your condensate drain is clogged, the whooshing sound is probably due to the water that is in the pan, it also sounds like your squirrel cage is out of balance, or you have a broken mount, the installers "should" have put a cleanout tee in the main line to the condensate, if not you will have to cut the line and install a tee to pressurize the drain and blow it out, as for the blue.. sounds like they used the "wet dry" pvc glue that has primer built in and were just messy when they installed the drain.
Remove power from the system, take the screws out of the coil housing and look at the drain pan, verify that it is indeed full and not draining properly or that it is leaking and is running water out of the pan into the ducting.(not good) unclog the drain and install a cleanout tee for future.
the squirrel cage or mounts will be physically visible if mount is broken or cage is out of balance..this needs to be accomplished with the blower door off and the unit turned to "fan on" at the thermostat, physically depress the safety switch and visually verify the problem... Hope this helps Dan

Hi, not sure which motor you are talking about, the indoor blower, or the outdoor condenser fan motor? Doesnt matter. If the motor is shutting down, its overloading and going off on its internal overload. Cools down, resets and repeats this again. Make sure you have not miss wired it. Even though the run cap and motor is new, doesn't always mean they are good. You need to look at the R.L.Amps on the motors data plate, to see what it is rated for when running.You MUST have an amp probe meter to check each hot leg to this motor to see how many amps it is pulling while under a load. If it is the condenser fan motor, and if the blade/prop is not in the right place on the 1/2 " shaft, you can move it up or down to adjust the amperage on the motor. When you do this, it causes the motor to draw either more or less air across the coil, which you need less to reduce the amperage and load on this motor. I have seen this happen many many times, but like I said you will need a amp probe meter to see what the motor is drawing. If you dont have one, just move the blade a 1/2" in one direction or the other until the motor keeps on running. This will work, just time consuming, and you will never really no how many amps its drawing.You can pick up a good clap type amp meter at Sears, a Craftsman for around $29.99. It is well worth the bucks to have. You can also check the uf's on the run cap. The voltage 370 or 440, food for thought is you can always use a cap thats higher in voltage but never lower. Make sure you have the correct MFD as I am sure you know this.So, check the voltage from the new contactor to the motor, the run cap, and most important is how many amps it is drawing and you can wrap it up. I wish you the best. Please let me know, keep me posted, and rate me if you please to.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C & Heating Contractor.

Before working around or with your AC unit, be sure that all power to the unit is disconnected. The switch can be replaced without having to evacuate your refigerant, it is shown how in this instructional video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7z7PLhqQAlo. Determine what type of pressure switch you will need according to how many wires you need, then follow this link to purchase the switch needed: http://www.americanhvacparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=8c7070e8fb882954689484b1e9cd2880&Store_Code=AM&Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=ps-amana. I see that you had a capacitor issue in the past, sometimes the HVAC repair companies won't install the new capacitor correctly on intention so as to get more of your money; if you didn't already know, the capacitor is what makes the fan run so if your system is on but the fan isn't running, your capacitor is bad. Here's how to fix it yourself for a fraction of the cost of the HVAC repair company: go to the back of your outside unit and look inside the access panel with the electrical warning sticker on it, if the capacitor is bowed up at the top, it needs to be replaced. If it turns out to be the capacitor, follow this link for a new capacitor replacement kit. The kit also comes with the proper tools and parts needed as well as detailed instructions on how to replace the part yourself. http://hvacrepairkits.com/index.php/content/article/68
I hope this helps!

It sounds to me like you need to replace the start capacitor. The easiest way to make sure you get the proper capacitor then remove capacitor and take it with you to electrical supply store;the capacitor may be located on the motor housing squirrel case housing. It is possible that the capacitor is on the inside of the motor. If it is then you will need to replace the motor. Usually the wiring to the capacitor is one solid brown and one is brown with white stripe or has white hash marks on it. Thank you.

If it says E0 then what this usually means is that the unit was unplugged or power was cut to the unit while the unit was on. It then needs to be programmed again. If its the amana/goodman RSKP0009, you need to hold temp up and down arrows down together for two seconds then press off twice. It will take you into the programming mode. Settings are different for heat pump and electric heat models. If you just need a quick fix to get it to cool, I think you can get away with pushing the heat button a few times and then off. If you did it right the display should go off and the light by the off button will turn on. Press cool and it should work.

E1-Automatic filter clean reminder.

Turn the air conditioner OFF and unplug it. NOTE: The air conditioner must be unplugged for the automatic filter clean timer to reset.

Clean the filter. See the Care and Cleaning section in your use&care manual. After cleaning, replace the filter and plug the air conditioner back in.