the pulley will not remove very easily , it wold require removine the milk stool, motor and some other parts, not the easiest hing to do especially if not needed, the helix you removed, take a look at it , the sloped ends of it should create a pretty sharp angle, then a 90degree drop off, the slopes om the pulley should be the same, they should not apppear to be rounded off,helix is probly 10 bucks if needed and if its at the helix that you see the "slipping" and "clicking noise, before condeming the tranny i would start with tthe helix, if after re-installing it it still clicks up and over pully perhaps try adding another spacer under the bolt before tightening. the idea behind the pulley and helix is that depending on rotation of the transissiion, the helix "pushes against" the pulley adn spreads the brake plate, releasing the brake allowing the tub tospin freely
If it is the dispenser in the middle of the agitator it should pull straight up.It may just be clogged up and that would make it hard to pull. Hope this helps.
it does( withiut looking at it myself), sound like the pulley/helix are just slipping past eachother and not engaging one anoher, does the sloped side of the pulley(wehre it meshes with the helix appear to be rounded over???) thats really the only reason i could see to replace the pulley.. for get trying oto spin the belt can you grab hold of the p[uley and try spinning it directly????. rfeason i askl is that in order to replace the pulley, youll need to rease th springs around the bottom of tub, and remove the entire unit from the cabinet, after removing unit, turn unit upside down, you need to remove the motor,, then unbolt the 3 white legs form the outer tub, and remove the 3 brake pads bolted to underneath uint with 3/8 nuts, the stansion then will lifht up giving you room to remove the pulley. awful alot of work if not needed,
I had the same problem and had a repair guy come out who told me it was the powertrain aka transmission. The estimate was $350 to repair. Thankfully my home warranty covered it and decided it would be cheaper to replace than to fix. I had a Maytag Performa is the only difference. I actually called several other appliance shops in the area who all basically said it was the transmission and very expensive to replace. When it is agitating it goes one way and for it to spin it "spins" the opposite way. Good luck with your washer issue!
some of these machines have a timer conflict between rinse [ spin pulse ] and full spin at end of wash cycle the timer contacts remain in the pulse cycle the switching assembley may need replacing
Hi, Check inside the drum for loose plastic bars that help tumble the
clothes. If you can shake them, open the cabinet top and tighten the
bar screws on the outside of the drum. If any appear stripped and don't
tighten, remove the bar from the machine and inspect for cracking
around the screw holes. If found, replace with new parts. Otherwise,
try breaking off matchsticks in the holes and see if the screws will
tighten. The top is either held on with screws in the back--then slide
the top backwards to remove, or there is a pair of spring clips in the
front corners that require a thin putty knife to be slid into each clip
and pushed until the clip releases. The back end of the top usually has
plastic hinges and won't come entirely free of the cabinet. Hope this
helps!
The agitator is fastened to the agitator shaft and its movement is driven either by splines or a simple clutch assembly. The splines are usually plastic or rubber nubs on a cylinder that fits over the agitator shaft. If the nubs wear down, the shaft will not turn properly or it will turn weakly. If the agitator is moving in only one direction, the likely cause is the clutch assembly. The clutch has dogs that depress and pop up with each turn. If those dogs are worn, they will not engage properly and the agitator will turn only in one direction. Another issue that might cause this disruption is the Motor coupler.
Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.
Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.
There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.
Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.
**(((If the motor couple is in good condition, replace the agitator components and clutch assembly as well.)))
Raise the washer top and inspect the water fill tube and the water level air hose.
You will need to set the timer to fill while you are watching for the water leak.
ouch this ones a litle complicated, hopefully th eold belt is still connected??? youll need to drop the motor assy 4 1/2" bolts, and after you drop the motor assy, youll need to flip it over and removeth pump with a torx20 wrench ,after removing the pump you can install the new belt. the nreinstall.( put the 2 bolts holding rear of motor back on first, makes it much easier to remoint the front bolts. and watch placemnt of the belt around the pump legs, it makes a difference( which is why i hope theold belt is on, makes it easier to see how it hooks up. good luck
put one of the plastic balls in place on one side of the lid, hold the lid against it to hold it in place. then put the other ball in the other side indention and push the lid down on it until it pops in place. it is a little tricky if you have never done it b4.
i just got a new camera the dimagne x50 and i brang it out today and it was working fine it didnt drop or anything i took a picture then turned it off then i turned it on agian and when it was on the camera format the light kept on blinking yellow for the longest time and wouldnt let me take a picture so i tried the video format and it worked so im just wondering why the video format is working and not the camera ? has this happened to you? is there any way of fixing it?
im including this link for visual, Idont think this is your issue, but , you may be experencing an issue with the pulley / helix(bottom white). i would try removing and replacin the helix if appears worn(the top of the angular plastic gets rounded and allows the pulley to POP passed it. plus its only 1 bolt below holding it on, in order to replce the pulley youre gonna need to dismantle quite a bit of this machine
