20 Most Recent Olympus OM-4TI 35mm SLR Camera Questions & Answers

This camera is somewhere between fifteen and thirty years old. It is highly unlikely that spares would be available, and it would be extremely expensive to have it repaired in any case, most artificers familiar with the internal layout having probably retired years ago. Maybe the camera should be retired too ?

The mirror has probably stuck or jammed in a 'partially up' position. Try removing the lens, and press gently on the BACK of the mirror - the dark underside, as you look inside the camera (never touch the front, silvered side - it is surface silvered, and very easy to damage), to try to raise it. If it can be raised, then it is not totally jammed, and gently raising it like this, then letting it fall back MAY be enough to free it. If it won't move at all, then it is jammed. Repair, if possible, will be expensive.

Remove bottom cover. Check wire

The biggest clue is that you're having to take action to save the batteries. High battery consumption is a a classic sign of a faulty circuit board in this camera. Unlike most regular OM-4's, the OM-4ti generally had an improved circuit board fitted from new which was made available as a warranty repair item on regular OM4's, but you may have an early one.

The faulty circuit board manifests in other ways, most commonly the dead display/non functioning shutter except for the mechanical default speed. I've heard of the screeching fault as part of this problem but have not personally encountered it.

The fault is irrepairable as replacement boards are fashioned of finest unobtanium; the same faults affect the OM-2sp as well. This is exactly why both cameras are now available far more cheaply as used buys: potential buyers who know these models are aware that they're taking a gamble.

There is a revision marking on the "good" boards but it's largely academic. Anyone with a "good" OM4 rarely sells it, and even the revised boards are old enough to have started deteriorating by now.

I don't know if this is you first film camera or if you've owned one for years - so pardon some beginner suggestion.

If there's film in the camera, you may have reached the end of the roll. What you're describing sounds very much like this is the case. There is a window to indicate of how many exposures have been taken next to the film advance lever. Most 35mm film manufacturers offer 12, 24 and 36 exposure rolls. Check to see the number shown in the window. If at the end of the roll, you may have advanced the film so far that the number is half in the display and half blocked.

If there is film in the camera and since it will no longer allow any more exposures, you'll need to remove the film. Locate and press the R button next to the film advance lever. Unfold the crank handle from the knob on the top of the left side of the camera (as viewed from behind - in picture taking position). Twist the crank in a clockwise direction (viewed from above) to rewind the film into the film canister. As you get closer to the end of the film, more resistance will be felt until finally, the handle spins freely. This indicates that all the film has been safely rewound and stored in the canister. Next, lift the knob that the crank attached to up and away from the camera body. The back door of the camera should pop open. You can now remove the film from the camera and have prints made from it.

You can get a copy of the manual for your camera here. There is no charge to download it - but a donation is accepted by the person that is making it available.

I hope this helps and good luck! Please rate my reply - thank you.

Film advance on your model is entirely mechanical and is not affected by the batteries, but it does interlock with the shutter mechanism which is entirely battery dependent.

Unfortunately, OM4's are were notorious for having a main circuit board which corroded. There were a number of revisions to the board and the OM4-ti had a major revision which improved things greatly but didn't fix it entirely. If the board's faulty, your camera has become a display piece only as it cannot be fixed and spares are impossible to obtain. It doesn't help that OM4-ti's were made in far fewer numbers than regular OM4's and that the boards are not interchangeable between them.

It is still possible though that the fault is due to the camera just needing a thorough CLA service (Clean, Lubricate, Adjust) but expect to find that some mechanical parts may need to be replaced, especially if the film advance has been forced. If the shutter assembly is faulty, then once again you're into rocking-horse poo territory as it's unique to the OM4-ti. They can't be obtained new any more, but they can be taken from scrap OM4-ti's which suffered circuit board failure.

Note that due to the complexity of this model most repairs are not a DIY option. Repairs will not be cheap, but an OM4-ti which is advertised for sale with proof of recent professional repairs and servicing by an Olympus specialist is worth a lot of money so is often a worthwhile investment.

You don't say whether ou've tried using the reset button, which unlocks the mirror after lock up. As you look at the camera face on (shutter top left, rewind arm top right) then its about at 5pm on the lens mount. Whilst pressing that down, rotate the manual speeds band (found on the lens mount on the body) round to B, which should unlock the mirror.
If it does, it should work normally with new batteries in.

Do not put them in the fireplace - you will not get grate pictures that way

Maybe alanwood.net/photography/olympus/auto-bellows.home or try. Vintageclassiccamera.com

You may download the manual from Olympus OM 20 instruction manual user manual free instruction manual pdf...

The OM-1 uses standard 35mm film. You can use black-and-white, color print, or color slide film. Color print film should be available at most drugstores. A good camera store will have all types of film.

The mju 140 is called the Stylus Zoom 140 in some parts of the world. You may download the manual here.