20 Most Recent Kenmore 63952 Electric Dryer Questions & Answers

HI! The Push To Start Switch is defective. Click on the following link to order a replacement switch. !http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/Kenmore-Parts/Dryer-Parts/3977456/0026/110/Model-11063952102/0582/0151200?keySuffixId=NA&productTypeId=x&searchModelNumber=11063952102&subCompDesc=Top%20and%20console&brandDesc=KENMORE&modelDesc=ELECTRIC-DRYER&pathTaken=partSearch&blt=11 for only $9.96. If you have a SEARS store closed by, you can get it from them.
To install, check the diag. on this page http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Dryer-Parts/Model-11063952102/0582/0151200/P0211134/00001?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=
Good Luck! A HELPFUL - 4 THUMBS - rating for this solution would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for using FixYa.

Hi

I believe that everything else is fine rather it is the thermal fuse that is located inside the rear panel to the exhaust duct that is bad and should be replaced. If you want you can test this fuse for continuity and if it is bad then it should be replaced, as it cannot be reset. If the fuse is fine then it can be due to the control board that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Replacing a thermal fuse

Note: Disconnect the power source to your dryer before you conduct this or any other repair. Either unplug the unit from the wall outlet, remove the appropriate fuse from the fuse box, or flip the appropriate breaker in the circuit breaker panel.

Testing a dryer's thermal fuse is much like testing its thermostats. Follow these steps to replace your dryer's thermal fuse.

The wires leading to the thermal fuse are connected using metal slip on connectors. Remove the wires by pulling on the connectors, and not the wires themselves. It may be a good idea to use a pair of needle nosed pliers to help you

Use some windex to clean the wax buildup off the dryer sensors under the filter housing inside the dryer. Autodry VS electronic sensing: First, wet clothes are electrically conductive. With electronic sensing dryers as the wet clothes tumble, they touch the two metal bars in the drum. (Auto dry dryers utilize a system of cycling the timer motor with the element, and has nothing to do with how wet the clothes are by the way.) There is a capacitor on the control that is trying to build up a charge, but when wet clothes create a short from one bar to the other, this charge is released to the frame of the dryer, therefore discharging the capacitor. As long as the capacitor charge is low, the control knows the clothes are wet. As the clothes become dryer, they short the bars fewer and fewer times. Once the capacitor charge builds to a certain level, the control knows the clothes are mostly dry, and it advances the program to the final timed portion, usually less than 20 minutes, some of which is a cool down portion to reduce wrinkling. If your dryer is shutting off after only 10 minutes, that means the control capacitor is never getting discharged. This can be due to a few different reasons: 1. Sensing bar wire is disconnected or broken; 2. Load is not large enough (remember the bars must be contacted repeatedly); 3. Bars are "coated" by fabric softener build up and need to be cleaned with Windex or 409. 4. Defective control board. 5. Airflow is restricted and moisture can't escape the drum. 6. Corrosion built-up on sensing board connection.(yank out the board and clean the contacts that sometimes is all it takes) Address the airflow condition and load size. Clean the sensor bars and make sure the wires are all connected securely. There is a diagnostic mode you can enter to test the control's ability to sense the bar contact that is illustrated in the tech sheet which is located within the control panel on many models. No sensing bars means you have auto-dry a totally different animal. Typically an orange wire is connected to the high limit on the heater element housing which feeds the timer motor when the element is not in operation. Bad control thermostat or air restrictions are the Autodry type dryer's worst enemy. Special thanks to a.g. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor going bad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why your dryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor going bad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why your dryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101
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Check this link. Common problem.
http://www.epinions.com/reviews/pr-Kenmore_63952_63954_63956_Standard_Dryer

Hi,
There can be many reasons why your dryer will not turn...

This tip that I wrote will help you to figure out what is happening...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4422207-dryer_repair_dryer_not_turning

Dryer Repair ? The dryer will not start
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4460438-dryer_repair_dryer_will_not_start


heatman101

Check the door switch, with a meter

if you have to hold down the start button to keep it running then the motor is shot-mike

Heating element is fragile like a light bulb filiment and verywell could have broken when moved

Hi.

If you have volts at the element , and the element does not heat up, then the element has blown.

The element is tested using a multimeter on Ohm on the element contacts.
To do this you need to disconnect the element and point multimeter probes at element contacts. Multimeter must be set on a low impedance scale, eg Rx1. If the multimeter returns open, or go to infinity (same thing), then the element has blown.
In a similar way you can test the thermostats. This can also be tested bypassing them.

Do all test with power not connected. Repairs must be done by trained personal.

You can find parts and diagrams here.

Regards.
Enter mode

yes switch is bad u will see on very back of machine they are a acess panel on very top of the back may 6 to 8 screws take them out remove acess panel off then un plug the the switch u should see how to remove the switch......make sur u un plug the machine before taking it apart

pull end caps off just grab at top of plastic and pull towards you remove the 2 screws underneath lift console up and roll back next to timer is a small control bd to right of that are 2 relays 1 with red wires for element and 1 with blue wires for motor first try switching the relays they are identical and will work for either 1 ..try if works replace relay ..if still not working suspect control bd

If your clothes get marked or torn in your dryer, check these:

Rollers
Rear seal
Front glides
Front seal
Rollers Your dryer may use rollers, or wheels, to support the rear of the clothes drum. When these are worn out, they may cause the clothes drum to drop down slightly, which can pinch the clothes between the top of the clothes drum and the rear of the dryer interior. When the rollers wear out, you need to replace the whole set.

Rear seal Your dryer may have a felt-like seal at the rear of the drum. If this seal is worn, torn, or missing, clothes can get caught and torn in the space between the clothes drum and the rear of the dryer interior. When the rear seal wears out, you need to replace it.

Front glides Your dryer probably uses nylon or plastic glides at the front of the clothes drum for support. When these are worn out, they may cause the clothes drum to drop down slightly, which can pinch the clothes between the top of the clothes drum and the front of the dryer interior. When the glides wear out, you need to replace them as a set.

Front seal Many dryers have a felt-like seal at the front of the drum. If this seal is worn, torn, or missing, the clothes in the dryer may get caught and torn in the space between the clothes drum and the front of the dryer interior. When the seal wears out, you need to replace it.