20 Most Recent Bosch 23 in. SHU303 Built-in Dishwasher Questions & Answers

Water valve may need replacing

If the owner's manual does not give an explanation of the error code is, in the troubleshooting guide, you'll need a service / repair manual. Perhaps calling around to a few local appliance parts and repair shops- someone can clue you in on what the problem is and how to repair it.

Hi

When the Dishwasher won't fill you'll need to check for the water inlet hose, the water inlet valve and the float switch assembly. When the water fills your dishwasher, a float rises along with it. As the float reaches a certain threshold level, it shuts off the flow of water, thereby preventing a leak. Sometimes the float can get stuck in the wrong position in your dishwasher, and it can prevent your dishwasher from filling. Sometimes it can happen due to float valve and on other occasions due to float switch. Inspect the water hose coming to the dishwasher for any blockages. If the hose is not clogged then check the water inlet valve for any clogs, if the water will not even fill for few seconds then certainly the water inlet valve is bad and should be replaced. You can also use a multimeter to check continuity on inlet valve. If you don't get any value on the multimeter then you'll need to replace the water inlet valve assembly. However, if the valve is fine then the float switch assembly should be replaced. Hope this helps... Please post back if you need more information.

Daniel

There is a chronic problem with Bosch dishwashers where the heater relay is soldered to the printed circuit board becomes loose (actually it seems like the solder just disappears from the connection).
You may also note that the timer seems to get stuck and will not advance.
Remove the top front panel, the circuit board is on the right side as you face the dishwasher. You need to re-solder the heater relay terminal.

Hello Brien, First let me start by apologizing for the difficulty you've had here at FixYa. It is unfortunate the assistance (or lack of) was not helpful or specific to your inquiry, but I'd like to attempt to make amends. I am quite familiar with your model and in fact have serviced Bosch for around 15yrs. When you receive the timer (It is very rare to need one in a Bosch, more likely stat on the inside door panel) I'd be more than willing to guide you through the process and I will even send you a complimentary service manual if you provide an email address. I will understand if you have closed the door on any further input from "experts" here at FixYa but will do what I can to help if you're open. Sorry once again and good luck going forward. Regards, Macmarkus :)

Hello, welcome to FixYa.

Based on your description I suspect the thermostat isn't satisfied when heating the water, hence it get`s hung up trying to heat in the part`s of the cycle it`s called for.

It very well could be caused by a faulty flow switch, NTC or heater as well but not very likely.

The dishwashers made by Bosch with a rotary dial timer have very few if any, issues with the actual timer or element but they do with the thermostat within the door panel.

If the thermostat is not satisfied the water may heat but not be indicated via the thermostat, hence timer will not advance. This is not likely the issue since your's does not even appear to be heating.

Here`s what you can try. If you have any hesitation or reluctance to service this yourself please call in an authorized B/S/H/ ( Bosch/Thermador/Gaggenau ) appliance technician.

**Turn off the breaker at the service panel before attempting any service suggested **

1. You will require a #20 torx screwdriver to remove the door panel by taking out the screws around the panel, except the ones along the top ( watch the edges they are very sharp )

2. Once the panel is removed you should see the thermostat over by the detergent dispenser clipped to the inner door, remove it and test it. You`ll need a ohm meter/multi-meter plus a lighter or match to heat it up to see if it open`s & closes.
Example...


**NOTE** it can occur the thermostat can become loose and detach from the bracket which holds it in place, this too can manifest in the sysmptom of the timer not advancing

Let me know how you make out and what you find.

Thank you for choosing FixYa and Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

that is a common issue,, make sure the screens below the spray arm is clean,, then take the spray arm off and clean it out good, top one also,, run the dishwasher (empty) with white vinegar and bleach, after run it through a rinse cycle to clean it out again,, it starts doing that after the build up of food and detergent,, sometimes it is necessary to have someone take it out and clean all of the hoses and pumps

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on your description " the cycle timer has not been moving (even after being left of 15+ minutes) and no water is entering the dishwasher, I have also checked and confirmed that the external water inlet valve on the hose is open"

It sounds like the emergency overfill switch has been actuated. If so you should be able to hear the drain motor running continuously. I this the case ?

If so, here`s what to do and what to look for.

**Turn off the breaker/power at your homes service panel...safety first of course**

Remove the the bottom panel, referred to as a toe panel or kick-plate, essentially the lower service panel shown here...



When you remove the outer toe panel, there will be another small panel which is non finished steel, I find removing that allows much easier access as well.




This panel can be somewhat more difficult as it secures the plastic channeling for the wires but if you observe closely you`ll see it does "snap" out of place...carefully.




Once the panel has been removed check for any obvious signs of water in the base ( the unit has a plastic overfill basin with a float which will actuate an emergency overfill cycle, hence the drain pump runs & runs )



If you don`t see any water in this area, direct your attention to the left in this basin/bottom ( from the front to be sure ) and you should see a device which will resemble a "stir stick" you`d use for coffee etc. it will be a red in color stick.




With the aid of a wooden spoon, long screwdriver, or if you can manage to reach by hand, lift it up and down gently and listen for a "click".

If there is no sign of water and you can here the "click" when lifting up and down the float actuater ( red stick ) then turn the machine back on and give it a try before reassembling the toe panel so you can observe for any possible leaks.

Let me know what you find or if this is not the case since this is the most likely cause of the symptom you are describing, but not necessarily the only possibility...it could be a faulty fill valve itself.

Either way I'll watch your post for a reply so we can move forward if this doesn`t resolve the issue.

Thanks for choosing FixYa. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on your post it may just be a loose/burnt connection in the dishwasher junction box or a severed wire in the door panel.

** I would start by first shutting off the breaker...safety first**

Then removing the kick plate ( access panel at the bottom )...



...and checking the wiring at the junction box for the dishwasher 120vac supply line.

Remove the murret's and visually inspect the wire for "resistance burn" and strip the wires back and install new fastener's if necessary to repair.

i.e.



This is actually quite common to find a wire connector come loose due to improper fastening and once the unit is in use for a while the connections heat & cool, become loose from normal operating vibrations and burn up from all the added heat caused by "resistance".

Typically this will manifest in just the manner you've described.

If it looks OK there I'd remove the outer door panel ( careful the edges are sharp ) via the six #20 torx head screws...




...check for a severed wire at the pivot point in the door, typically covered in a plastic casing as shown here..
.



The small plastic blocks which may be present in the bottom corners of the door panel, i.e.


...they can be a pain to re-install, but they do only go in one way, however it is ok to leave them out...their only purpose is to strengthen the structure.

Let me know what you find and I'll try to assist you further if necessary. Thank you for choosing FixYa today for your inquiry.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Hello,

welcome to FixYa.

Based on you description of the timer not advancing I initially suspect the thermostat isn't satisfied when heating the water. This could be caused by a faulty flow switch, NTC or heater as well but not likely.

The SHU 30** series Bosch dishwashers with a mechanical timer have very few if any, issues with the actual timer or element but they do with the thermostat within the door panel.

If it ( the thermostat ) is not satisfied the water may heat but not be indicated via the thermostat, hence timer will not advance.

Here`s what you can try. If you have any hesitation or reluctance to service this yourself please call in an authorized B/S/H/ appliance technician.

**Turn off the breaker at the service panel before attempting any service suggested **

1. You will require a #20 torx screwdriver to remove the door panel by taking out the screws around the panel, except the ones along the top ( watch the edges they are very sharp )
   
   
2. Once the panel is removed you should see the thermostat over by the detergent dispenser clipped to the inner door, remove it and test it. You`ll need a ohm meter/multi-meter plus a lighter or match to heat it up to see if it open`s & closes.
   

Example...


**NOTE** it can occur the thermostat can become loose and detach from the bracket which holds it in place, this too can manifest in the sysmptom of the timer not advancing.

Let me know how you make out and what you find.

Thank you for choosing FixYa and Good luck.

Macmarkus :)

Not sure why you would want to remove the panel? When this problem occurs First try putting in diagnostic mode and going thru the cycles. Anyway the tech sheet will be located behind the panel this will walk you thru putting in diagnostic mode.
There is a series of 4 screws that hold the top portion on. These are located on the inside of the door and require a torx bit to remove. Remove the screws and then lift up and out on the cover to remove. There is not a lot of wire there so I usuall remove the lower panel also,same procedure just remove the screws and slide down slightly to remove this panel. You will have to plastic pcs that slip over the hinges at the bottom and these may fall off when removing the panel. To reassemble put lower panel on first and leave the top two screws out until the control portion is installed then put in the rest of the screws.

HI. check the following areas for faults.

1. Air gap / Drain hoses
If there is an air gap (located in the sink, near the faucet), check to see if it is clogged. Unscrew the top cap and see if there is anything blocking inside. Note: If there is no air gap installed, the dishwasher might not drain properly.

If the drain hose is clogged, the dishwasher would not drain. If there is an air gap installed, it is very common that a hose going from the air gap into the garbage disposer is clogged. Remove and clean the hose. Make sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher.

Note: If you recently had a garbage disposer installed, it is common to overlook removing the drain plug.

2. Broken belt
Some dishwasher models use a belt to drive the pump. Replace the belt if found broken.

Note: Sometimes the belt would just come off the pump. Even though it might not be broken, it is recommended that you replace the belt, because it is probably too stretched out.

3. Pump
Some models have two impellers inside the pump - one, wash impeller, takes care of the wash cycles, the other, drain impeller, drains the water out. If the drain impeller is broken (broken blades, shaft), the dishwasher would not drain. Replace any broken pump components.

4. Drain solenoid
Some models (for example most GE dishwashers) use a drain solenoid to drain water out. Sometimes the solenoid gets stuck, preventing the water from draining out. Try to free up the solenoid. If unsuccessful, you might have to replace the pump assembly.

5. Motor
If the motor is stuck, it is sometimes possible to free it up by manually spinning the motor.

Replace the motor if defective.

6. Timer
Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).

you should have two filters. one you can unscrew .its a smaller round looking filter right under the bottom spray arm .once removed you just pull up on the flat filter that lying on top of the sump area

sounds like your control module has failed . module not allowing voltage to the heating element