20 Most Recent Goodman CKL49AR49 Air Conditioner Questions & Answers

4 ton

If this is a central AC, thecondensation drips off the cooling coils into a pan. From the pan, it is suppose to either go into a drain directly or into a sump, which in turn pumps it into a drain. Dirt or mold frequently plug the drain out of the pan or the drain line itself. You need to clear the drain with a wire or forced air. If there is a trap in the drain line, it may be plugged. If there is a trap and the line is not draining from the trap into a sewer, then I suggest you remove the trap, which is intended to block sewer gas from coming up the drain line. If it doesn't drain into a sewer, there is no sewer gas to block and the trap is unnecessary. The credulous building code requires the trap, regardless of whether or not the unit drains into a sewer. If you are talking about a window unit, the problem is similar - the water is being blocked from where it is supposed to drain. With a window unit the water is usually picked up by the fan that cools the condenser (hot coils) on the outside of the unit. The fan sprays the water on the hot coils and evaporates it so it doesn't drip out of the unit.

weak breaker or bad buss breaker plugs into. install new breaker and amp the wires see if it is drawing within limits of data plate for fla.

you need a 4 ton coil for your unit. all replacement coils are generic. any a/c supply house carry them.

I can think of two possibilities. First the main contactor is welded closed and needs to be replaces. Until you call a professional to replace this, turn power off to the entire unit by tripping the breaker. The other cause for a unit running constantlly, is the unit is trying to satisfy the thermostat and the unit is so undercharged that the unit can not cool or heat fast enough to remove or supply heat depending on cooling or heating mode respectively. Again you will probably need a professional to check your charge. Hope this helps

Heat pumps in cold climates suffer a number of limitations stemming from the fact that they are designed for air-conditioning applications. As climates become cooler and heating becomes more of the primary HVAC function, one may find that conventional heat pumps lose capacity and do not satisfy the load of the conditioned space. In colder temperatures, a conventional system’s need to defrost can further detract from heating performance. The use of resistance heat or fossil fuels to supplement or replace the vapor cycle. The additional use of supplemental heat to temper cold air blowing into the space during defrosts. As it gets colder outside, the delivery air temperatures inside begin to fall when no supplemental heat is being used. Supply air temperatures that are warmer than the return temperatures add heat to a space, but discomfort occurs when these supply temperatures drop below skin temperature. The air movement can feel cool or even cold. While the heat pump may be operating exactly as intended,the consumer will desire a more comfortable environment.

press the contactor in using a wooden pencil does it come on? if so then you are not getting a control signal from the tstat or a low pressure (low freon switch) is open stopping the contactor from pulling in

A defective capacitor will prevent the compressor from starting. If as you say, the contactor is engaging, then it's either a defective capacitor or compressor motor. I'd check both, starting with the capacitor. The fact that the contactor is working, eliminates some other possibilities.

Hello, try using a small object to push the fan with power applied to it, if this gets the fan going tnen the capacitor must be replaced. If the fan does not start up then the motor is shot and must be replaced.

Your most likely issue is a bad run capacitor. It a small silver can that is usually located in the controls area of your condenser. If the fan has been replaced it could be mounted somewhere around the fan. It helps motors run and when they fail they will run half speed,

the best thing to do is get a surge protector for your whole house panel box depending if its a 3 phase unit you might want to get a phase protector also

The split run capacitor in the condensing unit is bad. It needs to be replaced. The reason the system is not cooling is because the compressor it not running. The capacitor is needed for the fan and the compressor to run properly. That is why you had to give the fan a kickstart with a stickstart.
Hope this helps.

Could be just a blown fuse or circuit breaker. Fuses are generally located close to the unit in a small box on the side of the house. You will have to flip the box open to find the fuses. It may have a cartridge you have to pull out. Fuses are not visibly bad, you have to check them with an ohm meter or sometimes a hardware store can check them for you. Otherwise you will have to buy two and just replace them both.
The circuit breakers are usually in the house along with all the other breakers in a main panel. There will be two breakers and will probably be visibly tripped. Just flip them all the way back and forward to reset

check the contactor on the condensor may be bad,or the fan cap

Hello
Either the start capacitor is bad or the fan motor is bad.First check any fuses in the control area of the outside unit see if any are blown.

The capacitor is usually located on the motor.Disconecct all electric and mark where wires went.
your local a/c supply store should be able to get you one or have one in stock.

This sounds like a bad start capacitor.

On the Good man you need a 5/16 nut driver take the furnace panels off and the blower is in the bottom area. There are 2 screws up top that connect to the blower housing take those out. Everything else will be loose be careful with the wires they can be tricky to work around. But take your motor out throw it away and install your new blower motor and capacitor. Its a simple job really. If you replace the motor yourself you willl save over $300.00