Rm125 1999 no spark

I am wondering how you know these wires are shorted?

Having replaced the entire ignition system, it would be safe to assume if one component had been faulty it should now spark so clearly something else is wrong.

Scooters and motorcycles tend to have complex wiring and with many modern examples including an anti-theft system, troubleshooting faults is difficult and without a wiring diagram is very difficult and time-consuming even for experts, near impossible for the uninitiated...
Even when testing a stator you need to know where the coils terminate, additionally it is useful to know when testing those coils with an ohmmeter, the resistance will be so low it will look like a short circuit with most analogue meters.

Even if there is no anti-theft system, if the ignition switch is on the instrument panel, ignition related wiring goes to the ignition switch and back again and it doesn't even need a faulty switch to stop the engine starting, a single corroded terminal or connector would be enough...

Do you have voltage to the wire that goes from the ECM to the ignition coil?If not, check the kill switch and the side stand switch for malfunctioon.

Test the primary coil resistance on your coil. Disconnect all the wires going to the small terminals on your coil. Using a good ohm meter, test the resistance between the two small terminals. You should read somewhere between 2 and 3 ohms. If you read more, the coil is bad.

You can also test the coil by leaving the "hot" wire on the coil and replace the other side with a short piece wire. Turn the ignition on and temporarily ground the short piece of wire you put on the "out" side. When you take the wire away from ground, you should see a spark at the plugs.

Good Luck
Steve

My old 73 175 had points, I don't know if yours does. There is also the stator/ magneto. Try disconnecting the kill switch or unplug the key cylinder. There is a more detailed check in the manual. I can't find my old 175 manual but ttr125 says 1) check plug for spark- clean or replace. 2) check entire ignition system for connection. 3) check ignition stop switch. 4) check coil. a- primary coil, b- secondary coil. 5)check cdi coil. a-pickup coil. b- charging coil. Since you have replaced the coil I will only give specs for the cdi check. The picture shows a plug under the tank disconnected. It has four wires brn grn red and wht. To check pick up coil resistance set ohm meter to x 100. attach the plus lead to red and neg. lead to white. It seems to have a short wire in each jaw of the alligator clips of ohmmeter that is pushed into the disconnected plug that contacts appropriate wire color. Reading should be 248 to 372 ohm at 20 degrees C (68 degrees F). Charge coil test places the plus lead of ohmmeter to the brown wire and neg. lead to the green wire of the open plug. Meter at x 100. Reading should be 688 to 1032 ohm at 20degrees C. Of course while doing step 2 check for good grounds and tight connection at plug cap and use a new plug. Good luck.

polaris factory stator (not starter, STATOR) are junk and are prone to failure. The coil can be checked by checking the resistance with an ohm meter. To check the stator, follow the wire harness coming out of the engine by the recoil rope. Follow them to where they connect to the CDI, coil, and rectifier (should be around the headlight area, under the plastic. Remove the pair of three wires in one connector (should be a green, a red, and a red/black). Check for ohms between each. If any show open, the stator is gone. To replace, you have to remove the recoil cover, flywheel, then the stator coil comes out with four screws.

Follow the leads that exit the crankcase from below carby area and thoroughly check all these connections to CDI unit and Rectifier and Ignition Coil. The wires also then follow thru' engine kill switch and lighting switch, others go to tail and brakelight switch. Are the wires being pinched at head stem or within handlebar switches. If all wiring/swithes and connections are in good order, you have some issues with your stator coils or pick-up coil inside left engine cover and behind the rotor, or the CDI unit. With some luck, the Rectifier or Ignition Coil may be guilty as these are relatively cheap to replace compared to stator coils and CDI. Get an auto. elec. multi meter check done. The Service Manual (info can be asked from Suzi dealer) has the Ohms resistance parameters to test against. Goodluck, and Cheers.

According to my polaris manual, is says'' The regulator / rectifier is tested by process of elimination ( when all other possable causesof chargingsystem failurehave been checkedand eliminated, the rectifier is defective). I had to replace my stator and then had a simular problem as you have and it was that the ignition pulse coil wasn't properly guaged ( sometimes the metal retainer will allow slight movement) You might want to also check the coil resistance 0.3 to 0.5 ohms the coil secondary resistance spark plug cap installed 11,300 ohms spark plug cap removed6300 ohms. Hope this helps out. Good luck

hi buddy to check the magneto just find the wires from the magneto and test them out with a volt metre if you have nothing there must be the stator plate gone get back to me buddy

Let me just ask, Does this machine have points? If so, The sonsor cand and will prevent high voltage failur.

You said the motor cut out and popped and backfired when it quit, this is almost always one of two things; either the low speed pulse coil or the actual CDI "black" box. You will almost never lose a main coil. One thing I would also check to make sure did not happen is shearing a flywheel mag key. When the motor backfires you can easily shear a mag key if you have a heavy flywheel, (external). However when this happens you don't usually lose spark but it will certainly cause the backfire.
One other item of importance is that the bike you are in question about does not emit a bright spark when you are checking for fire. Make sure you are using a brand new plug and ground it on the head. Try to make sure you are in a dark environment when you check the spark.