Stator rotor assembly magnets

If the washer won't agitate the stator or rotor assemblies at the back of the washer tub might be bad or damaged. The rotor is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the rotor fails or is damaged the washer might not spin or agitate. Check the rotor for damaged magnets or other defects.

If the washer won't agitate or spin, then the stator or rotor assemblies at the back of the washer tub might be bad or damaged. The rotor is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the rotor fails or is damaged the washer might not spin or agitate. Check the rotor for damaged magnets or other defects

If the washer won't spin the stator or rotor assemblies at the back of the washer tub might be bad or damaged. The rotor is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the rotor fails or is damaged the washer might not spin or agitate. Check the rotor for damaged magnets or other defects

The stator is stationary mounted to the outer tub the rotor attaches to the spindle of the basket which is a shaft that goes thru a bearing to get a definitive answer remove the back panel remove the rotor turn the center bolt till it loosens keep going as this will back the rotor off the stator you will have to pull with a little effort strong magnets to get it off now try to spin the basket by hand if stiff you have a bad tub bearing.

How many magnets are missing? Check you wires, may there are some damage or cut wire

There's nothing to replacing the regulator. It simply bolts to the frame. The wires from the regulator to the stator plug into the plug on the lower left front of the engine case. The larger longer wires runs back along the frame and up to the positive post of the battery.

There's a bit more to replacing the stator. To replace the stator, disconnect the battery and drain the primary case. Remove the outer primary cover. You'll have to take the engine compensator sprocket nut off and remove the mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on. To get the clutch assembly off, remove the snap ring in the center of the clutch assembly and remove the clutch adjuster. The mainshaft nut is inside the hole in the center of the clutch assembly. The nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Take the nut off the primary chain adjuster and take the engine sprocket, primary chain with adjuster, and the clutch assembly off all together. The rotor is on the engine sprocket shaft. It can be difficult to get off because of the magnets inside of it. The rotor has two holes in it. I use two long bolts and put them just into the holes deep enough to hold the rotor by squeezing the ends together. Pull the rotor off. The stator is held on by four small Torx bolts and it has a wire support that is held on by two small sheet metal screws. When you install the new stator, make sure you use thread locker on the threads and torque the bolts to 40 inch pounds of torque. The sprocket shaft nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds of torque. The clutch mainshaft nut (LEFT HANDED THREADS) torques to 60-80 foot pounds. You'll probably need a locking bar or some way to prevent the engine from turning while you torque the nuts.

Good Luck
Steve

I think he means it neds a new stator assembly. The rotor is a set of magnets mounted on the end of the crankshaft. Magnets never go bad. The pickup coils in the stator assembly however can go bad. The likelyhood of finding a new stator assembly is not good. I suggest you google motorcycle salvage yamaha to see what you can find. Also, get a second opinion on the problem. It could be a bad rectifier, a disconnected or broken wire, or even a battery with an internal short. The internal short would discharge the battery.

It is a locked motor error. One of the following is causing the problem but you may need the help of a qualified appliance technician:

• The connector (3-pin, male, white) in the motor harness is not connected to the connector (3-pin, female, white) of the stator assembly. Connect them properly.

• The electrical contacts between the connectors (3-pin, male, white) in the motor harness and 4-pin, female, white connector in the main board assembly is bad or unstable. Trace the motor harness back to the main board. Clean the connectors and connect them properly.
• The motor harness between the stator assembly and main board assembly is cut or open. Reconnect or rewire.
  
• Motor winding is defective. Check the resistance between the terminals of the stator. Resistance should be between 5 to 10 ohms, otherwise replace the stator. Refer to the illustration above for the stator removal.
  

1. Disassemble the back cover.
2. Remove the large bolt on the center shaft. Ask your helper to hold the inside of the drum.
   
3. Pull out the rotor out of the shaft.
   
4. Remove the 2 screws from the tub bracket.
5. Remove the 6 bolts on the stator.
6. Unplug the 2 connectors on the stator.
7. Pull the stator out of the tub.

• The hall sensor is out of order/defective. It is located at the stator assembly. If the hall sensor is out of order, it cannot detect magnetic field and the main board sees it as the rotor is locked then displaying the error code. Replace it if no evidence of defect is found above.

It is a locked motor error. One of the following is causing the problem but you may need the help of a qualified appliance technician:

• The connector (3-pin, male, white) in the motor harness is not connected to the connector (3-pin, female, white) of the stator assembly. Connect them properly.

• The electrical contacts between the connectors (3-pin, male, white) in the motor harness and 4-pin, female, white connector in the main board assembly is bad or unstable. Trace the motor harness back to the main board. Clean the connectors and connect them properly.
• The motor harness between the stator assembly and main board assembly is cut or open. Reconnect or rewire.
  
• Motor winding is defective. Check the resistance between the terminals of the stator. Resistance should be between 5 to 10 ohms, otherwise replace the stator. Refer to the illustration above for the stator removal.
  

1. Disassemble the back cover.
2. Remove the large bolt on the center shaft. Ask your helper to hold the inside of the drum.
   
3. Pull out the rotor out of the shaft.
   
4. Remove the 2 screws from the tub bracket.
5. Remove the 6 bolts on the stator.
6. Unplug the 2 connectors on the stator.
7. Pull the stator out of the tub.

• The hall sensor is out of order/defective. It is located at the stator assembly. If the hall sensor is out of order, it cannot detect magnetic field and the main board sees it as the rotor is locked then displaying the error code. Replace it if no evidence of defect is found above.

It is a locked motor error. One of the following is causing the problem but you may need the help of a qualified appliance technician:

1. The connector (3-pin, male, white) in the motor harness is not connected to the connector (3-pin, female, white) of the stator assembly. Connect them properly.
   
2. The electrical contacts between the connectors (3-pin, male, white) in the motor harness and 4-pin, female, white connector in the main board assembly is bad or unstable. Clean the connectors and connect them properly.
   
3. The motor harness between the stator assembly and main board assembly is cut or open. Reconnect or rewire.
   
4. Motor winding is defective. Check the resistance between the terminals of the stator. Resistance should be between 5 to 10 ohms, else replace the stator.
   
5. The hall sensor is out of order/defective. It is located at the stator assembly. If the hall sensor is out of order, it cannot detect magnetic field and the main board sees it as the rotor is locked then displaying the error code. Replace it if no evidence of defect is found above.