Brake Problem So the brakes work, but i know something is not right, they don't feel solid, i press on the brakes and a split second later the brakes engage, not instantly, theres a split second delay, theres normally a slight hiss sound as i press the pedal before they engage and theres a click outside when they do. also sometimes they take a few seconds to engage, hissing the whole time, but i can still stop the car if i press with a LOT of force, sounds like the hydro booster, i've taken it to the shop for a whole day and they still didn't know what was wrong, they should feel solid right?

SOURCE: 2003 dodge dakota

check 2 things first one is their is a plastic check valve that is inserted into the booster (under your hood) then goes to a vaccum line ,then to the engine, pull it out of the booster and check the valve it should be L - shaped. it might have a hole in it causing a vaccum leak. be carefull pulling it out not to break it just pull straight out. if that is ok put it back in. then your problem is going to be the brake booster the big black round case. sometimes the diaphram inside the booster rips causing a vaccum leak which causes a hard brake pedal and you have to stand on the pedal to stop. then you will have to repace the whole thing but not the master cylnder unbolt master cylder with the brake lines connected, the lines will give then disconnect brake pedal arm under dash inside of trk their should be 2 nuts or 4 buts under dash on inside of firewall near brake pedal then remove booster pulls out from under hood. there is not much to replacing them.

Marvin

• 85242 Answers
• Posted on Sep 11, 2010

SOURCE: I have a 2007 Dodge

U need a new booster, the hissing noise is a leaking power brake booster. see instructions below, if u have 4 wheel ABS you will need a shop to bleed the brakes as it requires a special tool to hold open the hydraulic control valve for bleeding.


Instructions Things You'll Need:

• Socket wrench with socket set Socket extender Open-ended wrench Pliers Bucket to catch brake fluid Masking tape Permanent marker

1. 1 Open the hood and locate the brake booster. This is usually a round-shaped disc about 3 to 4 inches in thickness, but may be larger depending on your vehicle. It will be attached to the brake master cylinder on the firewall, usually on the driver's side.
   
2. 2 Loosen and remove the tube nuts holding the brake line to the master cylinder with the open-ended wrench. There are four of these (four brake lines) that you will have to remove. Make sure you make note of where the lines are being disconnected from because they will have to be reconnected to the same area you removed them from. You may want to use masking tape and a permanent marker to mark the location of where the brake lines came from. You'll have to turn each tube nut counterclockwise to loosen and be especially careful that you do not damage the end of the nut while you are loosening it. These nuts, which damage easily, are a critical component that secures your brake line to the master cylinder.
   
3. 3 Unbolt the two bolts holding the master cylinder to the brake booster and remove the master cylinder. Be sure to catch the brake fluid that drips and do not get any on your vehicle's paint.
   
4. 4 Some brake boosters have bolts that you will be able to remove from the firewall. If your brake booster has these, unbolt them.
   
5. 5 Unbolt the five or six--depending on your vehicle--nuts holding the brake booster in place under the dash behind your vehicle's brake pedal. Some of these may be difficult to reach, but you should be able to get them all with a regular socket wrench. You may have to use a socket extender to reach these nuts on some vehicles.
   
6. 6 Pull the retaining clip or pin holding the brake booster to the brake pedal. To do this, pull the clip holding the pin in place using pliers. Then tap the pin out with the end of the pliers. The brake pedal should now be free of the brake booster.
   
7. 7 Pull the brake booster out of the firewall and out of the engine bay.
   
8. 8 Lower the new brake booster into the engine bay where the old brake booster used to be. Align the mounting bolts with the holes in the firewall and slide the new brake booster into place so that it sits tight against the firewall.
   
9. 9 Align the mounting bracket on the back of the brake pedal with the bracket on the brake booster (inside the vehicle). Slide the retaining pin through both brackets, connecting them together. Replace the clip holding the retaining pin in place. There is a small hole in one end of the pin. Push the retaining clip into this hole.
   
10. 10 Replace the bolts you removed from the back of the brake booster underneath the dash and behind the brake pedal, and re-tighten them (clockwise). You may need to use a socket extension to reach these bolts.
    
11. 11 Replace the bolts on the firewall (if your vehicle had them), and re-tighten (clockwise).
    
12. 12 Slide the back of the master cylinder (there is a hole in the back) over the end of the brake booster piston and slide the master cylinder back until it sits flush against the brake booster.
    
13. 13 Replace the master cylinder mounting bolts and re-tighten them (clockwise).
    
14. 14 Replace the tube nuts into the areas where you initially removed them and re-tighten. When tightening tube nuts, turn them counterclockwise until you feel resistance. Then give them an additional one-quarter turn.
    

Dan Doherty

• 1099 Answers
• Posted on Nov 08, 2010

SOURCE: This is real frustrating for us because were

Hi

It is only one of 2 things the ABS pump has failed, or the ABS sensor is sending the wrong message to the ABS module, I have a little tip if you dont want to spend any money that is, you can remove the fuse from the ABS this will mean the car will no longer have anti locking brakes but it will still have normal brakes and it wont make a noise either, it is worth checking that there is no air in the system and also lastly if the vehicle has disc brakes on the rear when they get low the brakes pads that is, the front wheels over compensate and again would sometimes cause this noise so do have a look if they are disc brakes on the rear, although the sound is coming from the front, the cause could be the rear.

It is definately the ABS making the noise though

Hope that helsp
Regards
Dan, if you need anything further get back to me

SOURCE: Hello I have an Dodge

Hello oli.

The only thing that will cause this noise in that area is the brake vacuum booster.
When you depress the brakes it closes off the vacuum leak.
The shaft that the brake pedal operates goes directly into it through the firewall.
The bolts that hold it in place are inside the cab but the booster is outside attached to the brake master brake cylinder.
This problem will require the vacuum booster be replaced.

Thank you for using FixYa.

KL

SOURCE: Have a 1993 dodge Caravan SE. Purchased it from a

IF YOUR BRAKE PEDAL HOLDS WHEN YOU PUMP BRAKES WITH ENGINE OFF.START ENGINE WITH FOOT ON THE BRAKE PEDAL.THE BRAKE PEDAL SHOULD DROP A LITTLE HOLD.IF BRAKE GOES TO FLOOR POWER. POWER BRAKE BOOSTER FAULTY.MAKE SURE POWER BRAKE BOOSTER IS GETTING VACUUM. IF POWER BRAKE BOOSTER OKAY. I SAY YOU HAVE PROBLEMS WITH THE BRAKE SYSTEM. VECHICLE SET UP FOR ABS BRAKE UNIT HAS TO BE REPLACE WITH ABS BRAKE UNIT.YOU CANT CHANGE A ABS BRAKE SYSTEM TO NON ABS BRAKE UNLESS YOU CHANGE MASTERCYLINDER TO THE NON ABS MASTERCYLINDER THE BRAKE LINES SET UP GOING HAVE TO BE CHANGED SAME AS THE NON ABS BRAKE SYSTEM, YOU NEED COMBINATION VALVE IT HAS METERING VALVE CONTROLS FRONT BRAKES AND PROPORTIONING VALVE CONTROLS REAR BRAKES, AND A BRAKE WARNING SWITCH ALSO BUILT IN THE COMBINATION VALVE. YOU NEED TO FIND SAME VECHICLE WITH NON ABS BRAKES LOOK AT BRAKE LINES ROUTING FROM MASTER CYLINDER TO COMBINATION VALVE TO FRONT AND REAR BRAKES. IT WOULD BEEN CHEAPER TO FIX THE ABS BRAKE UNIT THAN TRY TO DO CHANGE OVER BECAUSE ABS BRAKES SYSTEM SET UP DIFFERENT THAN NON ABS BRAKES SYSTEM THAT WHY YOU HAVING BRAKE PROBLEM.CHANGING ABS BRAKE SYSTEM TO NON ABS BRAKE SYSTEM WOULD BE LIKE TRYING TO PUT A 4 BARRELL CARBURETOR ON A CORVETTE WITH A 364 CU INCH ENGINE FUEL INJECTION ENGINE.