2008 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Logo
kenneth reece Posted on Aug 19, 2012

How to change front brake pads on 2008 royal star

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 109 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 22, 2010

SOURCE: 2008 yamaha royal star venture - trouble starting

If after market battery may not have enough cranking amps.Turn on lights an try to start.Lights go dim to off battery bad.If lights don't change it's starter.One bad cell in battery can mess with the power to turn starter enough.

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Apr 12, 2010

SOURCE: How do I remove the back tire on a 2008 Yamaha

CHECK THIS LINK http://www.venturerider.org/wheel/

bazzz7071

bazzz7071

  • 342 Answers
  • Posted on May 24, 2010

SOURCE: 2007 Royal Star Tour Delux with 15,000 miles Rear brake issues.

No you should have from time to time safety checked your motorcycle, brakes are a normal wear part and should have been replaced before the friction material had completely worn off.

Anonymous

  • 73 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 25, 2010

SOURCE: how to change the brakes on 1996 yamaha royal star

Hooo..this is gonna be a long one. Hope you either have a laptop you can take to the bike, or you can print this.

Make sure you have an adequate supply of DOT 4 brake fluid. A quart should be enough, but much less is gonna leave you without brakes somewhere until you can get more. You CAN NOT refill with DOT 5 fluid; flushing the lines with alcohol, drying and purging is required before that change - and the benefits are negligible.

If you have the Royal Star, not the Deluxe, ignore the next paragraph.

Remove the saddlebag on the right side of the bike. Sound simple? NOT! There are two different length screws (three shorter, one long), a spacer, a variety of stand-offs, and a variety of rubber isolators and washers. Remove the parts (two mounts in the floor, two in the back toward the frame) but KEEP TRACK of where they come from, and in what order you remove them.

The rear caliper is now exposed - the real fun begins. Two bolts hold the caliper to the caliper arm - remove them and lay the caliper on the arm. Remove the black plastic dust cover on the top of the caliper (it's frequently missing, the ears that snap into slots in the caliper get brittle, and it breaks off and disappears), but DON'T try to remove the spring beneath. Lay the caliper on its side, pads toward you. Collapse the pistons (if you don't know how to do that, shame on you. Get a stack of pennies and a large screwdriver, stack pennies IN THE CENTER of one pad until there is very little clearance between the two pads with the screwdriver inserted between the pennies and the bare pad. Twist screwdriver HARD, relax. Keep adding pennies and twisting until neither pad will move any more).

It's time now for final disassembly. Flip the caliper over; you'll see two pins secured by spring clips. Those pins also secure the spring; note the orientation of the spring through the pins, take pictures or draw the assembly; whatever you do, make sure the springs and pins are reinstalled in EXACTLY the same orientation. Remove spring clips, remove pins and springs, and the pads can be removed one at a time by sliding to the center of the caliper. Insert new pads, reinstall pins, spring and spring clips, remount caliper, reinstall dust cap and bleed brakes. Pat yourself on the back now if it was a Royal Star - if it's a Deluxe, you've still got to wrestle the bag back into place. You can now reassure yourself (and any observers/kibitzers) that the worst caliper of the three is out of the way.

Proceed to the front, and pick a caliper. You'll see two (usually black) bolts holding the caliper to the front fork, remove them and swing the caliper free of the disk. The caliper itself closely resembles the one in the back with two notable exceptions - in addition to the spring on top of the pads, there are two retainers on the front and rear of the pads (they keep debris from getting between the pads and disk, and keep the pads from moving back and forth in the caliper housing), and on the back of the outside pad is a shim (don't ask me why, but it's usually there). disassembly and reassembly and reassembly are similar to the rear caliper BUT; remember to transfer the outside shim to the new pad, and , once the pistons are collapsed, remove the retainers from the front and rear of the old pads, then reinstall in the new pads prior to installing the pins and spring above the pads. After you've finished both calipers, bleed one caliper at a time.

Check the firmness of the brakes one more time, and it's Michelob time!

Anonymous

  • 73 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 25, 2010

SOURCE: 2007 Royal Star Tour Delux with 15,000 miles. Rear brakes scored

Not an unusual problem, no recalls. Replace pads (and rotor, if necessary), but after brakes are bled, loosen the bolt between the rear caliper arm and the swing arm, have someone apply and hold rear brake, tighten bolt. The arm, which holds the caliper in line with the rotor, occasionally loosens and allows misalignment. Checking pad thickness on both sides of the disk regularly will reveal caliper problems if wear is not evenly distributed.

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How to change the brakes on 1996 yamaha royal star

Hooo..this is gonna be a long one. Hope you either have a laptop you can take to the bike, or you can print this.

Make sure you have an adequate supply of DOT 4 brake fluid. A quart should be enough, but much less is gonna leave you without brakes somewhere until you can get more. You CAN NOT refill with DOT 5 fluid; flushing the lines with alcohol, drying and purging is required before that change - and the benefits are negligible.

If you have the Royal Star, not the Deluxe, ignore the next paragraph.

Remove the saddlebag on the right side of the bike. Sound simple? NOT! There are two different length screws (three shorter, one long), a spacer, a variety of stand-offs, and a variety of rubber isolators and washers. Remove the parts (two mounts in the floor, two in the back toward the frame) but KEEP TRACK of where they come from, and in what order you remove them.

The rear caliper is now exposed - the real fun begins. Two bolts hold the caliper to the caliper arm - remove them and lay the caliper on the arm. Remove the black plastic dust cover on the top of the caliper (it's frequently missing, the ears that snap into slots in the caliper get brittle, and it breaks off and disappears), but DON'T try to remove the spring beneath. Lay the caliper on its side, pads toward you. Collapse the pistons (if you don't know how to do that, shame on you. Get a stack of pennies and a large screwdriver, stack pennies IN THE CENTER of one pad until there is very little clearance between the two pads with the screwdriver inserted between the pennies and the bare pad. Twist screwdriver HARD, relax. Keep adding pennies and twisting until neither pad will move any more).

It's time now for final disassembly. Flip the caliper over; you'll see two pins secured by spring clips. Those pins also secure the spring; note the orientation of the spring through the pins, take pictures or draw the assembly; whatever you do, make sure the springs and pins are reinstalled in EXACTLY the same orientation. Remove spring clips, remove pins and springs, and the pads can be removed one at a time by sliding to the center of the caliper. Insert new pads, reinstall pins, spring and spring clips, remount caliper, reinstall dust cap and bleed brakes. Pat yourself on the back now if it was a Royal Star - if it's a Deluxe, you've still got to wrestle the bag back into place. You can now reassure yourself (and any observers/kibitzers) that the worst caliper of the three is out of the way.

Proceed to the front, and pick a caliper. You'll see two (usually black) bolts holding the caliper to the front fork, remove them and swing the caliper free of the disk. The caliper itself closely resembles the one in the back with two notable exceptions - in addition to the spring on top of the pads, there are two retainers on the front and rear of the pads (they keep debris from getting between the pads and disk, and keep the pads from moving back and forth in the caliper housing), and on the back of the outside pad is a shim (don't ask me why, but it's usually there). disassembly and reassembly and reassembly are similar to the rear caliper BUT; remember to transfer the outside shim to the new pad, and , once the pistons are collapsed, remove the retainers from the front and rear of the old pads, then reinstall in the new pads prior to installing the pins and spring above the pads. After you've finished both calipers, bleed one caliper at a time.

Check the firmness of the brakes one more time, and it's Michelob time!
0helpful
1answer

2007 Royal Star Tour Delux with 15,000 miles Rear brake issues.

No you should have from time to time safety checked your motorcycle, brakes are a normal wear part and should have been replaced before the friction material had completely worn off.
2helpful
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2007 Royal Star Tour Delux with 15,000 miles. Rear brakes scored

Not an unusual problem, no recalls. Replace pads (and rotor, if necessary), but after brakes are bled, loosen the bolt between the rear caliper arm and the swing arm, have someone apply and hold rear brake, tighten bolt. The arm, which holds the caliper in line with the rotor, occasionally loosens and allows misalignment. Checking pad thickness on both sides of the disk regularly will reveal caliper problems if wear is not evenly distributed.
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