Whats the stock color codes for pushrods - 1993 Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide

Duplicate question already answered

The intake pushrods and exhaust pushrods are different lengths. To distinguish the different pushrods, paint has been used, although this paint may be hard to identify after prolonged use. The intake pushrods are color-coded orange and are 6 in. (152mm) long. The exhaust pushrods are color-coded blue and are 63/8in. (162mm) long.

Here is a picture of the cylinder marking:

Stock lifters often allow valve noise. Consider velvet touch or Jims' lifters AND lifter blocks. Adjustable push rods are okay.
Adjustment: I prefer TOTALLY dry lifters get the lifter at its lowest point and FULLY collapse the lifter. then turn looser by 1 to 2 1/2 turns. What this does is allow for a loss of oil pressure without engine destruction. This procedure is essentially the opposite of the normal procedure.
Many HDs have intermittent valve tapping and we have traced to the lifters. HD says "It's a Harley", but a valve tap ruins the whole ride.

If your bike is equipped with the Evolution engine there is no adjustment on the rocker arms, the engine is equipped with hydraulic tappets. The pushrods on the Big Twin Evo engine are color coded and go in a particular position. They are different lengths. The blue color coded pushrod is the rear intake pushrod, the purple color coded pushrod is the exhaust pushrod. The pushrods for the Evo Sportster are all the same and there is no adjustment on those eiher provided they are stock.

Now, if you are working on something other than an Evolution engine or you have aftermarket pushrods, please repost and I'll tell you what I know about the valve adjustment for your engine.

Steve

Replacing the gasket on the cam cover of your Fat Boy is not a job for the faint hearted. It''s quite complicated because of the fact that you must get the pressure off the cam to get the cam cover back on once you get it off. You must also be very careful as to not change the camshaft timing with either the pinion gear or the breather gear.

If your Fat Boy has stock pushrods in it, you'll have to take the fuel tanks off, the air filter, and then take the rocker box covers off. Rotate the engine until you get one cylinder to top dead center on the compression stroke with both valves closed. Pull the push rod tube expanders out collapsing the pushrod tube and take the 5/16" bolt at the right end of the rocker arm shaft out. Slide the rocker arm shaft out and remove the rocker arm and the pushrod. Do this on boht the intake and exhaust pushrods. Notice that the pushrods are color coded meaning that they go in a particular location. Do not get them mixed up. Do the same thing to the other cylinder. The purple colored pushrod goes to the rear exhaust, the blue coded pushrod goes to the rear intake, the yellow coded pushrod goes to the front intake, and the green coded pushrod goes to front exhaust.

Now, that you have all the pushrods out of the engine, take the bolts out of the tappet guides and remove them. Keep the tappets in their original bores, do not mix them up. Check the roller bearings on end of the tappets for any up and down play. If you find a worn tappet, it should be replaced. You can replace the gasket on the cam cover without removing the tappet guides but you must remove the pushrods to get the pressure off the cam. If you remove the tappet guides, you will need a pair of "alignment pins" to align the tappet guides with the camshaft upon reinstalling them. Torque the bolts to 100 inch pounds.

Now, remove the cover that covers the ignition timing unit in the nosecone. Mark the timing plate inside the cavity so that you can reposition it in exactly the same place when you go to put it all back together. Remove the timing plate and the timing "cup" behind it. Take all the bolts out of the timing cover. The cover is mounted on two large dowel pins. You can pry the oil pump side of the cam cover off just a bit with a large screwdriver. Then, use a thin putty knife to work the other side loose. YOU MUST HOLD THE CAM IN POSITION BY PUSHING INWARD ON IT AS YOU REMOVE THE CAM COVER. DO NOT ALLOW THE CAM TO COME FAR ENOUGH TO LET IT GET OUT OF TIMING WITH EITHER THE PINION GEAR OR THE BREATHER GEAR. IT MUST BE TIMED CORRECTLY. The bolts that hold the cam cover on are different lengths, remember where they go.

When you go to reinstall the cam cover, make sure you get all the bolts in the correct holes. Reinstall the tappet blocks if you took them out. Reinstall the pushrods, pushrod tubes, and rocker arms in the last cylinder that you removed them from. Torque the 5/16" bolt to 13-15 foot pounds. Wait for the tappets to bleed down and you can turn them with your fingers. Turn the engine until the other cylinder is at top dead center on the compression stroke. Reinstall the pushrods, pushrod tubes, and rocker arms on that cylinder. Again wait until the pushrods will spin with your fingers before rotating the engine.

Reinstall the timing cup and the timing plate in the timer cavity in the cam cover. Make sure you get the marks you put on the plate and the cover aligned precisely. Reinstall the rocker boxes with new gaskets. Torque the bolts to 80-100 inch pounds. Reinstall the fuel tanks.

Uhh, if the pushrods in your 1994 model bike were stock, they are not adjustable. They should be color coded at to where they go. If this is what you have, they go in the following positions:
Purple - Rear Exhaust
Blue - Rear Intake
Yellow - Front Intake
Green - Front exhaust

Now, if they have been changed to adjustable push rods by you or some previous owner, the first thing you have to do is figure out how many turns of the adjuster it takes to make the pushrod 0.100" longer. Turn the adjuster all the way inward making the pushrod as short as possible. Now, using a caliper, turn the adjuster outwards until you get a measurement of threaded rod that is exactly one hundred thousandts long. Then turn the adjust all the way back inward while counting the number of "flats" on the hex adjuster that you turn until it bottoms out. You must do it this way because different manufacturers of the pushrods use different thread pitches on their adjusters.

Once you know how many "flats" it takes to make the pushrods 0.100" longer install the pushrod into a position with the tappet all the way down. Adjust the pushrod out using your fingers until you get all the slack out of the pushrod. Then turn the pushrod adjuster outwards the number of turns that it takes to make the pushrod exactly 0.100" longer.

Once this is done, you will not be able to turn the pushrod. You must wait for the hydraulic tappet to bleed down before you can turn the engine. If you do turn the engine before the tappet bleeds down, you may bend the valve. Do not turn the engine until you can turn the pushrod with your fingers. Proceed until you get all pushrods installed and adjusted in this manner.

Ride Safe,
Steve

I'm assuming that you're talking about replacing the O-rings on the pushrod tubes. If so, you must remove the upper and middle rocker boxes from both cylinders. Then, you'll have to remove the rocker arms, one at the time, and replace the O-rings on the tubes. Do not mix the pushrods up. They are color coded and go in a specific location.

Good Luck
Steve

Pushrods on a completely stock 1993 are one piece and have no torque spec as they are not of the adjustable variety. If you do in fact have "adjustable pushrods" and have set the adjustment according to the pushrods manufacturer's specification in conjunction with a good Harley service manual the nuts on the pushrod need to be good and snug........Tight, but do not bear down on the wrenches. Use your best judgement.

If the engine is stock, there is no adjustment to the valves. The engine is equipped with hydraulic tappets that take up for any wear or heat expansion of the cylinders. The pushrods are non-adjustable but are of different lengths. They are color-coded as to what position they go in.

Now, if your engine has been modified and adjustable pushrods installed, they should work the same way unless they are way out of adjustment. Then, it depends on "whose" pushrods they are as not all pushrods have the same threaded ends on them. But, all is not lost.

Take one of the pushrods out of the engine and adjust the pushrod as short as it will go. Now, turn the end out until it makes the pushrod exactly 0.100" longer while counting the "flats" on the adjuster. When you install the pushrod, make sure the tappet is at it's lowest point in the bore. Put the pushrod in, don't forget the tube and the new O-rings, and adjust the pushrod out until you have zero backlash. Then adjust it out the additional number of "flats" that it took to make it exactly 0.100" longer. Lock the adjuster down. What you're doing here is the plunger of the tappet has a travel of 0.200" total and you're adjusting the pushrod so that the plunger is halfway in the middle of its travel so that it's got equal travel in both the up and down direction.

Good Luck

You may be able to use them,there should be enough adjustment to make them work.FordMotorsports and Crane make a pushrod that is 8.640 which is what I used with those rockers.To check fit install 1 pushrod and 1 rocker on #1 cyl turn the engine over by hand 2 revolutions and then check and make sure the rocker tip is dead center on the valve,if it is you're good to go.