20 Most Recent 2004 Harley Davidson VRSCB V-Rod Questions & Answers

sounds as though your gear lever return spring has broken and will need replaceing

Since disc brakes are designed to have the pad in constant contact with the rotor, this in not an unusual problem. Especially if you are running the sintered metal pads that give the best braking.

Remove the caliper and the pads, Lightly sand the pads and clean the rotor with brake parts cleaner. If this doesn't stop the noise, the only thing I can tell you to do is change to "organic" pads. They don't last as long or stop as well but usually they are quiet.

Good luck
steve

The indicator icon or light you are seeing is most likely the "check engine" light, and if viewed closely looks like a tiny engine. A review of the owners manual might be helpful. Fuel that is two years old is not going to combust/burn properly. I'd start with draining the fuel tank and putting fresh gas in the bike. If you installed the new battery yourself double check the terminal connections and look where the negative cable ends on the vehicles frame. Many electrical malfuctions can be traced to bad "grounds"or loose connections.(the bouncing on the seat). Take some time to look carefully around. The vehicle's ECM (Engine Control Module) is capable of storing one or more "trouble codes".

Once you locate the filter. It should be rather straight forward to change it. When you buy the filter, don't be afraid to ask the people where it is, and what tool you need to change it.

Here is a link to a good forum with some guidance,

http://www.hdforums.com/forum/vrsc-models/38760-vrod-oil-change.html

Sorry my friend there are no down loadable service manuals on-line. They cost about 60 dollars or so, and are available through any dealer. FYI, the manuals are quite comprehensive, about 3" thick, by 8' x 11". Essential if you plan on doing your own service/maintenance.

try changing spark plugs and fuel filter. if that dont work do a compression test on it.

If it's a simple swap out, meaning you aren't changing switch housings and stuff, it's not difficult to do. What is probably going to give you a problem is wire and cable lengths. Naturally, if your bars are taller or wider, you'll need longer wires and cables. If the bars are shorter or narrower, shorter wires or cables. If the wires are too long, this usually doesn't pose a problem, simply wad the excess wire up and hide it somewhere. If the cables are too long, you'll need to figure out the lengths that you need and probably order them aftermarket. Good Luck.

To state the obvious, you need to find a headlamp that will fit your new billet shell. Sounds simple but it may not be especially if you live in a country other than the United States.
Headlamps and other vehicle lamp must conform to your country's regulations. In the U.S., our lights have to meet the Department of Transportation (DOT) specifications. In other countries, it's their "TUV" or something like that.
Here in the U.S. motorcycle sealed beam type headlamps come in two sizes, 7" and 5 3/4". Some units use the H-4 replaceable "bulb".
This is the best information I can give you without more information. Good luck.

There is no release altering adjustment for the VROD short of changing plunger length in master cylinder allow relief port to open sooner. not encouraged but it is possible.

If the float valve is in good shape and everything else is OK, no, you don’t have to turn off the fuel petcock. However, if anything isn’t perfect you’ll have, at best, gas all over the bike and the floor. At worst, you’ll fill one cylinder with gas and the other cylinder will fire when you try to start it and you’ll go into hydro lock and bend a connecting rod