20 Most Recent 2000 Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883 Hugger - Page 6 Questions & Answers

No id say the float is or was stuck tap bowl or remove & clean shut off needle ,,, clean air filter or if not washable replace w/ new ,, get more help at harleytalking.com .. they have helped me many yimes ....

Your bike is not equipped with points. Harley stopped using points in 1979. What you have is a solid state ignition unit and the flashing light is used to time the ignition with. The number of wires and where they should go is dependent upon what type of ignition unit you have. If you can see the unit, it should have a name and model number on it.

Here's a test. Start the bike and allow it to run until it shuts off. Pull the spark plug wire and put another set of spark plugs in them and lay the plugs against the engine so that they get a good ground. Turn the ignition switch on and then back off. Watch the plugs when you turn the switch off. You should see a single spark. If not, your coil is probably bad. If you see the spark, the coil is good.

To test the coil, take all the wires off the small terminals of the coil. Use an ohm meter and put the function switch in R X 1 scale. Measure the resistance between the two terminals. You should read between 2 and 3 ohms of resistance. If it reads any higher than this, the coil is bad.

If the coil checks good, then the problem is in the solid state unit in the timer cavity. If it's an aftermarket unit, you'll have to send it back to the factory to see if it's bad. If it's an aftermarket unit, you can go to their website and look up the technical information and installation instructions for the unit using the model number.

Good Luck
Steve

Well, I'm not sure I understand this question but I'll try. The speed sensor itself is mounted on the right side of the transmission case, just below the starter motor. The other end is connected to the speedometer on the backside. Just follow the wires up to the speedo and take the plate of the backside of the speedo.

Good Luck
Steve

The drain hose location on the Sportsters seemed to have changed every year. But, they stayed in an area just below the battery on the right side of the bike. The hose may simply plug onto a frame tube down by the swingarm. Sometimes they came off a "tee" right behind the primary case.

Good Luck
Steve

I suspect the battery. Take the battery out and take it somewhere that they can do a "load test" on the battery. It's never good to just let a battery sit. When you let the battery sit without a "smart charger" on it, the charge bleeds down and the plates in the battery start to deterioate. Then, when you try to get it back by charging, you find that one or two cells are bad. The the bad cells will also prevent the votage from a jump starter from going through as well. Check the battery first, if it's 3 to 4 years old, it probably needs replacing anyway. Most motorcycle batteries don't last much longer than that unless they are premium grade batteries.

Good Luck
Steve

Blocked feed pipes are a common cause of this. Remove the pipes and blow them through with an air line.
I came accross one engine with oil starvation and the cause was gasket sealer stuck in an oil way!

The first thing I would check is the battery. If you have a battery and no CCA then you will get this kind of issue. Load check the battery. It could have full voltage but carry dead cells and have no power to crank the motor. If the lights go dim when you push the starter button this may be the issue also check battery for corrosion and bad grounds. Check the negative cable at the battery and all ground cables to engine or frame for looseness. Let me know what happens. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/al_e83b1941f9c0f302

1. Move the drain pan below the primary assembly on the left side of the motor. Remove the drain-plug bolt on the bottom of the outer primary cover with a socket wrench and allow the fluid to drain into your drain pan. Wipe the tip of the drain-plug bolt with a shop towel before reinserting it into the outer primary cover. Tighten the drain-plug bolt with a socket wrench.
   

2. Open the outer primary cover by removing the round derby cover, using a Torx-27 driver to unscrew the six mounting bolts along the derby cover. Pull the derby cover away from the outer primary cover to reveal the clutch assembly. Use a funnel to pour fresh primary fluid into the primary cover, filling until the fluid is level with the lower edge of the diaphragm spring on the bottom of the clutch assembly. Remove the funnel and wipe up any spills with a clean shop towel. Mount the derby cover onto the outer primary cover and tighten the mounting bolts with a Torx-27 driver.
   

Use 20-50 weight oil for the changes.
Using a brand name synthetic is your best bet, don't need to pay the price Harley wants for their oil.

I can help you with your schematic request. However, this forum will only allow me to send files up to 150kb, too small for a schematic without losing the clarity off it. If you will contact me directly at [email protected] , I will e-mail the schematic to you as a scanned jpeg file at no charge. Please remind me of what you need in your e-mail. I handle many request in this manner and I cannot remember who wants what.

Ride Safe
Steve

If the carb is he original Keihen CV carb, rebuilding it is not for the amatuer mechanic. This is a very complicated carburetor as compared to an S&S carb. There are a few parts in the carb that will fit in either way but only one way is correct. But if you wish to give it a shot, simple take the carb apart from top to bottom. Carefully observe how EVERYTHING is positioned in the carb. Remove all jets and pay particular attention to the needle jet as it goes in with the beveled mouth to the top of the carb. Do not install this upside down. Remove ALL rubber components including the diaphragm and soak the carb in carb cleaner overnight. Rinse and reassemble the next day. Make sure you do not pinch the vacuum diaphragm. I'd replace the accelerator pump diaphragm in a carb this old.

Good Luck
steve

Contact me directly and I'll send you a copy of the wiring diagram you need. This forum will only allow for a file size of 150kb. Contact me at [email protected] and remind me of what you need.

Good Luck
Steve

Just what is it that you want to do yourself. Maybe we can find pictures as well.

STeve

Yes, I'm very surprized that you can shift the gears. Without the belt to hold the main drive gear still, sometimes the transmission can be tough to shift.

I wouldn't worry about anything in the transmission at this point. Just get the new belt on and then see how the tranny shifts.

Good luck
steve

no spark ,well you just answered your own question --change the crank sensor but i have no idea where it is on this bike but i would imagine it is more than likely to be on the cam ,Whats happening is the coil windings are breaking down when it get hot so its not getting a magnetic reading to pass back to the computer to tell it when to fire

Sounds like it may be idled too low. Your engine should idle at 1000 rpm or so. A lot of people try to get that slow "potato, potato, potato" sound out their engines. The older engines would do it but the cam grind on the newer engines are not conducive to this. Either way, idling the engine that low restricts the oil to the bottom end. The oil pump has a priority to put oil to the hydraulic tappets before it does the bottom end. If your engine is idled too low, your bottom end is not oilling as it should be.

If your carburetor and intake seals haven't been replaced, it may be time for that as well. If simply idling the engine to 1000 rpm does not solve the problem, I'd go through the complete fuel system from the fuel tank to the intake manifold including a complete carb overhaul.

Good luck
Steve

Now, this may sound overly simple but I've seen it work more times that I care to tell. Next time you go for a ride, loosen your fuel cap. Don't take it off, just loosen it. If the vent system in your fuel tank is not working, it will do this exact thing you're describing. Check your vent system to be sure it's open and working. I've seen rusty fuel caps not vent and I've seen "dirt dobber" wasp nest built in the vent tubes of fuel tanks. The bike runs for a short distance, sputters and dies. Shortly, it start back up but will do the same thing in just about the time and distance.

If that's not it, go by an electronics store and buy a small can of "component cooler". Take the cover off the ignition unit. Ride the bike until it dies. When it dies, spray the electronic ignition unit with the component cooler and see if the bike will start up immediately after you cool the unit. If it does, try it again until you're satisfied that the problem is heat affecting the ignition unit. If this test proves not to be the problem. we'll have to look for something else.

You can also try running it without the air filter. Run it until it dies and then look into the carb and "milk" the throttle a couple of times. You should see a jet of fuel from the accelerator pump squirt into the carb throat. If you do, then your problem is not fuel related. If you don't see the fuel squirt into the carb, your engine is starving for fuel for some reason. Check the fuel supply hoses and the petcock. The petcock on your bike is vacuum operated. There is a small vacuum line that feeds vacuum to the VOES switch and the backside of the petcock. I've seen lots of these petcocks go bad and leave the riders stranded with a full tank of fuel but none to the carb. I'd replace the petcock with either a pre-1996 unit or a good aftermarket unit, a manually operated one.

The oil going into the breather is common. On a bike that is several years old, like yours, the small "umbrella" seals in the rocker box cover has probably hardened and is not sealing well. To fix the problem, pull the rocker boxes off and replace the unbrellas and the gaskets. Reroute the crankcase breather system away from the air cleaner. Good Luck!

It very well could be. First check the tention and adjustnment on your primary chain. If that does not solve the problem by all means check compensating nut. If you have any of those primary problems they should be msking a noise. Make sure your drive belt is also in spec.

Yoou state that the bike has new pads! do the brakes feel spongy or or they just not stopping the bike like the old ones did? New pads go through a break in period. To rough in a new set of pads you need to get up ( to say 30 mph and do a soft brake ) then return to 30 mph and do a hard brake. It will take four or five times doing this to run in the new pads. If the pads do not rough in then you will need to start looking for other problems

i was thinking teeth count of both ring and bendix and alinement of starter when cranking Note watch loose clothing and fingers in gears