20 Most Recent 1979 Suzuki Gs 550 L - Page 3 Questions & Answers

loosen large nut on axle tighten small nuts or blots evenly on both sides

get bike warm under carbs at front there is the idle screw about half inch in size try adjusting

Sounds like you may have a bigger problem than a broken cable. First without engine running use the clutch and check how easy the gear lever shifts from neutral to first. Push the bike forward and let the clutch lever out slowly do you feel it begin to bite. If not readjust the cable as per the user manual then try again. If you can feel the bite when pushing try again with the engine running. If still no go I would look at the clutch operating mechanism and push rod.

CHECK WIRE TERMINAL RELAY ETC REPLACE AS NEEDED.

OK GET A NEW GASKET AND REPLACE IT.

Where the black wire is not

usually due to bad "needle and seats" AKA float valves in carbs on older models that do not seal properly and cause rich running conditions, hence poor fuel mileage. I also suspect the sparkplug electrodes are dark brown or black in color indicating the rich condition. they should burn a clean light tan color. A qualified technician should properly overhaul the carbs and adjust as necessary.

Hi.

This bike was released in 1977. The documentation for this bike originally was not released in pdf format. The manual is available only from pay-for websites, and not for free download. Here the manual at $6.99: http://www.repairthatmotorcycle.com/manual/suzuki/gs-550.html

Regards.

Ginko.

I have always used 25 thou or 0.6mm gap on these bikes and had no problems even when racing.

yes it is ikeno thats the idle adjustment screw

Disassemble the choke assembly and clean it with spray carb cleaner.

First off, your best source for parts is www.bikebandit.com
They ship the parts out FedEx and in stock parts arrive quickly.
If you're smelling gas when it's running, the first thing I look for is a leaky intake valve.
You can usually shore up the leaky valves with valve lapping solution and a valve lapping tool - which is basically a stick with a suction cup on the end.
If you don't need a major gasket like a head or base gasket, get high temperature "liquid gasket" silicone. The kind you are looking for should be blue when it comes out of the tube.
It makes great gaskets without the great expense!
Just be sure to use gasket remover spray on the surfaces before you put the liquid gasket on.
The thinner you put on liquid gasket, the faster it cures, and the better the seal, but don't put it on so thin that it cures before you assemble the parts!
Leaky valves can also cause that topping out effect, as you are losing compression.
I would look at the timing advancer though and make sure it's moving freely.
Check the valve stem seals while you are in there.
Oil leaking past these seals will run oil into the cylinders and cause that oil-fouled look in the plugs. Be careful inspecting these seals though, as it's easy to puncture them.
if you couple that with a leaky intake valve, you get the oil in the intake ports you were mentioning.

Hello and welcome to FixYa!
I suggest that you have the carburetor cleaned. It can be full of rust and dirt that's why it's not behaving well. Regarding the corked fuel lines, there must be some modifications made before you bought it. I suggest that you have the carb cleaned thoroughly including the jets to resolve the problem.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

my was missing a few pages of info to.
http://www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/

Hello and welcome to FIxYa!

Looks like that you have a vacuum leak. Please do check the vacuum hoses, have them replaced if necessary for if they are worn out or disconnected it may cause the bike to stall when throttle is open. You can start from vacuum hoses replacement and this may resolve the problem.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

bike is 30yr-so carb needs cleanin-the channels are dirty stoppin gas and the choke makes up forit--get a repair book for details

You have either a rectifier or charging coil(magneto) issue. The rectifier changes the AC pulse from the magneto to 12V DC. If that checks out, you'll need to test the magneto. Either case you'll need to have a multimeter handy and access to the factory repair manual for the testing parameters and wiring diagrams. Good luck!

battery dead?
in neutral?
clutch disengaged?

SPARK PLUG MATEY

Without much other information of what has been done, I would start with the choke system. The choke cable may be detached or far out of adjustment. With a helper see if you can watch the choke cable move the choke lever on the carbs when you move the choke lever to full choke. Cables do break and or stretch. If that is the case then reconnect, replace, or adjust as necessary. If the choke lever and carb choke system is moving correctly then the problem may be in the carburators themselves.

Good Luck