1979 Suzuki Gs 550 L - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

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Was it parked a long time or did it run ok one day and dead the next? If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/oscar_403cc49e0f00cda7

bad charging should be getting 13 plus volts check magneto wires possible reg rec fault.

one and four fire at same time and, two and three fire togeather

CK FLOAT AND NEEDLE VALVE IN CARBS SOUNDS LIKE THEY NEED TO BE CLEANED AND ADJUSTED.

I don't know your bike well, but hard starting, followed by OK running, is almost always the result of faulty engine timing. Look closely at that.

Presuming your bike is disc brake on the rear, disconect the pedal from the piston which opperates the brake mastercylinder, by removing the clip and clevis pin, now when you press the pedal you should have no resistance at all, if the pedal still sticks then you will have to remove the pedal and knock out the shaft from the frame and clean the shaft and the hole in the frame before greasing and refitting, it may also be the piston sticking inside the mastercylinder

Electrical issues are best taken a shop so you don't burn up your bike unless it is not worth much.

U will have 2 screws mixture n idle on d side of it from all the way in loosen d mixture out 2n1/2 turns idle bike n adjust idle til it smoothly idles

Most bikes before 1980 have points (i'm sorry but I don't know for sure with yours, ) however if you know, then ,,, check the points and everything connected to them, if your sure that the coil has power, then its going to be a problem in the car , ie rotor , points, or the cap itself

Go to the website below and you can see a parts fiche and gets parts also. www.babbittsonline.com Please rate my answer. Thanks.

Easy fix to fit a new clutch cable,make sure you leave the old cable in place until the new one is in place, this way you know the route you have taken is the same as the old one was fitted,Dont know in respect of the securing screws when you say they have been stripped, do you mean the screw heads no longer suitable for a screwdriver or wrench? If so this can be easily removed using a drill to remove the heads of the screws, first using a sharp 3mm drill bit after centrepunching the screw head. Drill into the screw about 2mm deeper than the head of the screw, then using a 6.5-7 mm drill bit again drill the pre drilled hole untill the head of the screw comes off, some care is required to make sure you accuratly mark and drill as straight as possible. If you mean that the screw threads in the engine crankcase have been stripped then you will have to have the threads repaired using a helicoil repaire kit, once the cover is removed remove the cable nipple from the clutch acuating worm, you may have to carefully bend over the securing tag before the nipple is removed,and caerfully bend it back, after fitting the new cable, Obtain yourself some new fixing screws of the correct length and (WARNING) no longer. Replace the cover, grease the nipple at the bar end, then fit the cable take out any free play with the addjusting screw leaving about 4 mm free play

I dont know for sure but 1200 rpm is most common.

The line that are on the bottom of carbs are your fuel over flow to the float bowl,floats may have become fuel soaked do to age makeing them heavy not allowing the float needle valve to stop the flow when the bowls are full,or the float needle valve are worn resulting in same thing,or it could just be stuck,first try to tap the bowl,just tap,to see if you can free it up,if that does not work,then you will have to rebuild/clean the carbs,and inspect,I would use rebuild kit,and new float needle valve assembly.

river rat susuki on a web search will bring you to their web page out of Arizona and they have the parts fische for the public to view. good web site

I believe you seat hinges to the side . If you put your key in the helmet/ seat lock and turn it, you should be able to lift that side of the seat. To remove the seat after that just remove the clips on the pins , pull out the pins, and lift the seat off.

41 pounds when cold

check for out of time

I had the same problem with my 550. I had fuel flowingout of the second carb overflow. The problem for my bike was a stuck needle valve. WhatI had to do was to take the bottom of the float assembly off, to take the float off and to spray some carb cleaner into the needle valve to get it not to stick. However, the problem was junk coming from the tank and clogging up the valve, so in ten minutes I had the same problem again.

What I did this time was to install a small in-line filter between the tank and the fuel intake for the carbs. It looks a bit wonky, but I've run it now for over a week without having the same problem flare up again.

from what I can find it is self adjusting......if you can hear it slapping then the self adjustment has run its limit and you have to replace the cam chain hope this helps