Elect window drivers control panel - switch for driver's window does not operate in the "up" mode all the time. I guess a loose wire or gummed up switch or selonid. How to get control panel out to check it out?

I could see one window not working from a broken wire inside the door flex , but not both back windows . Back windows are controlled by LF door module . Both back windows have different grounds - LR G200 an RR G201 . Also both rear window switches have different power supply's .RR switch fuse # 18 30 amp . LR is fuse b# 9 40 amp . Both window motors or switche's going out at same time ???? wouldn't think so .

• Driver door module circuits open/shorted.
• Loose, corroded connectors.
• Damaged window regulator control switch.
• Damaged window regulator electric drive.
• Open fuse in fuse junction panel Fuse 39 (10A), 28 (10A), 30 (10A).
• Open fuse in power distribution box Fuse 9 (40A), 10 (40A), 8 (40A).
• Glass, Frames and Mechanisms
  
  Inspection and Verification
  
  1. Verify the customer's concern by operating the power windows/heated back window to duplicate the condition.
  1. Inspect to determine if one of the following mechanical or electrical concerns apply:
     
     
     VISUAL INSPECTION CHART Mechanical Electrical
     • Front door power window regulator damaged.
     • Front window run damaged.
     • Front door window glass out of window run.
     • Front door window glass broken.
     • Driver door module circuits open/shorted.
     • Loose, corroded connectors.
     • Damaged window regulator control switch.
     • Damaged window regulator electric drive.
     • Open fuse in fuse junction panel Fuse 39 (10A), 28 (10A), 30 (10A).
     • Open fuse in power distribution box Fuse 9 (40A), 10 (40A), 8 (40A).
     • Scratched grid.
  1. If inspection reveals an obvious concern that is readily serviced, correct the concern before continuing with Inspection and Verification.
  1. If the concern remains after inspection, connect the Rotunda New Generation Star (NGS) Tester 007-00500 or equivalent to the data link connector (DLC) located beneath the instrument panel to perform DATA LINK DIAGNOSTICS test. If the NGS responds with NO RESPONSE/NOT EQUIPPED for the driver door module, go to Pinpoint Test A . If the NGS responds with NO RESPONSE/NOT EQUIPPED for the lighting control module, go to Pinpoint Test B . If the DATA LINK DIAGNOSTICS test is passed for the drivers door module and lighting control module, retrieve continuous DTCs and execute Self Test Diagnostics for the driver door module and lighting control module to retrieve current DTCs.
  1. If self test is passed and no DTCs are retrieved, go to the Symptom Chart to continue diagnostics.
  1. If DTCs are retrieved, go to the Driver Door Module (DDM) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index or Lighting Control Module (LCM) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index to continue diagnostics.
  1. If the driver door module cannot be accessed by the NGS, GO to Pinpoint Test A . If the lighting control module cannot be accessed by the NGS, go to Pinpoint Test B .
  Rotunda Service Bay Diagnostic System (SBDS®) 001-00001 may also be used to diagnose this system.
  
  • Power Windows Completely Inoperative
  • Supply open or shorted.
  • Ground open.
  • Window regulator control switch inoperative.
  • Circuits open or shorted.
  • Window regulator electric drive inoperative.
  • Driver door module.
  • PERFORM driver door module self test. Service DTCs. If no DTCs are retrieved, GO to Pinpoint Test C .
  • Single Power Window Inoperative
  • Window regulator electric drive circuits.
  • Window regulator electric drive.
  • Window regulator control switch circuits.
  • Window regulator control switch.
  • Driver door module.
  • GO to Pinpoint Test D .

Do all the windows work from this switch? Could be the switch not sending power to the others. But, All Jeeps are bad for window regulators.

It seems your switch or the electrical connection to it is going bad. You should open up the door panel and use a multimeter to test the switch. You can by a replacement at the auto parts store ( autozone or oreilly) if it has gone bad but sometimes they are expensive. You could also check the wiring to the switch. It travels from under the dash, through the door. My guess is that if it's loose, it's where the door hinges. Look for frayed wires.

"...when master switch remove, NO WINDOWS WORK"
This is correct--your master switch is part of the total circuit for all the windows to operate. Assuming the other windows work on their "relative" switches (passenger switch works passenger window etc.), you can assume this; it is not a relay problem. You only have one relay--a bad one would affect all window switches.
First, check your ground wires! Disconnect, clean (abrasively) and reattach)
Second, use a test light (starting at the master switch terminal) to determine if and why it's not getting voltage.

If neitrher the driver's door master switch nor the passenger door window switch wont operate the window, and the lock-out button is not on, then likely the passenger door inner panel has to come off to investigate. But first, check the wiring going into the passenger door for a broken wire. Also check the wiring coming out of the driver's door. If you see nothing wrong, pull off the passenger door panel and check for any wires loose from the window switch down to the motor. You can hotwire the window motor with a spare battery set beside the door there, to verify the motor is bad. If it is bad, you have to remove the glass, then remove the window regulator with motor attached, in order to replace the motor.

The wiring diagrams for your 2003 GMC Sierra power window circuits are copyrighted material and cannot be posted here. However, I can describe the driver's power window circuit to you.

Battery voltage is provided to the driver's window (master) switch via the ORANGE wire at PIn #2 on the switch connector which comes from the 25 Amp Left Window Circuit breaker located in the fuse block on the left side of the dash.

There is a logic module located inside of the master switch which controls the "Auto Down" feature for the driver's window. When the switch is operated in either the "UP" or "DOWN" position, power and ground is supplied to the window lift motor via the BROWN wire (Pin #1, Connector 2) and the DARK BLUE wire (Pin #3, Connector 2) Thease wires will switch polarity dependin on whether the switch is commanding UP or DOWN.

The schematics show that the ground circuit for the driver's window motor is supplied internally by the driver's window switch module. It is most likely grounded inside the door panel itself - the schematics do not specify. To check for ground, you can test continuity to ground on BOTH the BROWN and the BLUE wires by back-probing them with the switch electrical connector plugged in and the window control switch in the NEUTRAL position. They should both have ground.

When the switch is operated, one will remain ground while the other switches to power.

Hello
I assume the window will not operate from either door switch? If this is the case then you will need to likely replace the power window motor and power window regulator Assembly (this is what attaches to the glass and raises and lowers it).
Below you will find an instructional link to a video of the entire job on YouTube, it is the same for both front doors. The video comes from a company named 1Auto. Watch it through at least once before you decide whether you want to attempt the repair, it is fairly difficult. This is a common problem on the Dodge Caravan.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cayVPxUfYsc

Hi there,

All power windows are controlled by the same fuse.

Therefore, the most logical problem will lie either with the driver's window 'switch' or the driver's window regulator 'motor'.

If you know how to remove the internal door panel to gain access to the 2-wire connector on the regulator motor, undo the connector and using suitable jumper wires, connect each plug wire to a spare 12v battery - this should operate the motor. Then, reverse the wires on the battery and the regulator motor should move the opposite way.

If the motor operates "continuously" in both directions when connected directly to battery power, then the fault lies in the driver's master window switch.

If the motor fails to move "continuously" (ie it stops part way) in either direction, then the motor on the window regulator is faulty and should be replaced with a known good motor.

Cheers,


"If this has helped you in any way, please rate this solution with thumbs up, or kindly leave a testimonial"

I'm going to guess that's it's just a two wire hook up. There's only two ways to hook it up. Try it one way and if the door locks when you press lock on the switch it's on there right, otherwise just reverse the wires.

check fuses 35 & 41 (10 amp, red).
it also shows an accesory delay relay in the fuse panel.
And fuse 601? 30 amp.

make sure you don't have lock-out on driver switch panel activated.

Power Window System
Features and Operation
NOTE: The accessory delay feature will allow power window operation up to 10 minutes after the ignition is off or until a door is opened.
If equipped with power windows, the window control switch (14529):

• will operate the power windows only when the ignition switch is in the RUN or ACC position.
• is located on each front door trim panel, and Crew Cab and Excursion rear door trim panel.
• may be used to raise or lower the driver side, passenger side and rear windows from the LF control on the driver side, or the passenger window from the passenger switch.
• includes a one-touch down (OTD) feature for the driver door window.
• can partially lower the driver side window when the LF window control switch is depressed half way (first detent).
• will completely lower the driver side window when the LF window control switch is fully depressed and then released (second detent).

Power Window System — Modes of Operation
There are two modes of operation for the power window system.
Manual Mode
When the LH window control switch is pressed to the first down position, the window will move down until one of the following conditions are met:

• The LH window control switch is no longer in the first down position.
• The LH window control switch is pushed to the OTD position, causing the windows to enter auto mode.

Auto Mode
Auto mode provides the OTD feature. The OTD feature is activated when the LH window control switch, for the LH window, is pressed to the second down position.
Auto mode will be terminated when any of the following conditions are met:

• The LH window control switch is pushed to the UP position.
• The LH window control switch is released (OFF position) and then moved to the DOWN position (first detent) or OTD position (second detent).
• Note: Delayed accessory feature must be active.

The OTD feature is controlled by the window control switch.

---------------------------------------------------------
Condition Possible Sources Action

• All power windows are inoperative

• Fuse(s).
• Circuitry.
• LF window control switch.
• Accessory delay relay.