No brake lights keeps blowing fuse. replaced brake switch was good for a week repaced switch again now keeps blowing fuses' I know theres a short but were...any Ideas

That happened in my 1999 Buicke Century. Replaced the bulb 4 times kept burning out all within a week. Finally replaced the blinker socket and no more issues.

Hi Tanya, A short circuit in a vehicle is very dangerous. The cause needs to be identified and isolated. Why did you replace the brake light switch and then the indicator switch? Did the fuse blow when operating those units? Let me know more information and maybe we can sort it out? Regards John

If you keep blowing the brake fuse than you have a short in the system. Unplug the brake switch. Install a new fuse. If it did not blow than the problem is after the brake switch. Next unplug the turn signal switch, then plug the stop light switch back in and press the brake pedal. Did the fuse blow. If not than the wiring is good in between the two switches. With the turn signal switch disconnected use a jumper wire in between the light green wire (power from the brake switch) and the orange with light blue wire (power to the right brake lamp). If the fuse blows than there is a short in the right side brake circuit between the plug in and the rear socket assembly. If the fuse does not blow than jump from the light green wire to the Light green with orange wire (power to the left brake lamp). If the fuse blows than the problem is in the left hand brake wiring circuit.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

you obviously have a short to ground on one of the wires to the back (if it was the front the brake shouldn't blow the fuse). the most common problem is usually in a trailer light harness. if you look under the drivers side rear of the truck, down under the tail light there will be a plugin junction. pull this plug-in apart and see if the fuse still blows. if it does then the problem is forward of that connector, if it doesn't then the problem is behind that plugin. be sure to check for "green death" (electrical corrosion) at all joints especially any trailer hook ups.

You need a schematic to resolve this issue.

Classic symptoms of a frayed wire carrying current somewhere in the circuit, but touching metal, bare metal against bare hot wire: instant SHORT! Maybe a little spark there. Fortunately for you, you have a 10 amp fuse in that circuit which blows, and keeps the wiring from melting, and maybe starting a fire somewhere in your vehicle. If the fuse doesn't blow right away, the bare wire has moved away from contact with metal, but eventually, with enough movement it gets back into position and shorts again.
Enlightening, but not very helpful, eh? I'm afraid that's the way it is, Richard. Shorts like that can be very difficult to trace and find, without time and patience, a decent understanding of auto electrical systems, a wiring diagram for your Laramie, and knowing just what circuits that fuse protects.
If you have the owner's manual, it should list the circuits for that #12 fuse. I'd start with the dome lights, and remember, the door switches are part of that circuit. Good luck.

The power flow for the brake lights goes like this: Fuse ->Brake switch -> Turn signal switch -> Rear lights. The only difference is, if you have a 3rd brake light in your rear window, that gets its power directly from the brake switch. It does not go thru the signal switch first. So, if you are having a brake light problem, and your fuses are good, check the 3rd light in the rear window, if it lights up (assuming the bulbs are good, no one ever changes them), then the problem is most likely in the turn signal switch, hope this helps!

Do you have trailer light hook-ups? Fifth wheel lighting and brakes, maybe a gooseneck ball? I would start with anything foreign to the vehicle(Not OEM).Most OEM wiring isn't subject to damage without help from you and I. :o) Hate to say it but we (or the guy who wired the truck for aftermarket lights) is sometimes the worst enemy.

The horn and rear brake lights are on the same fuse. Eventually the horns rust out like on my 1998 CRV. Once I replaced the horns, I could put in a new fuse without it blowing every time I sounded the horn. Problems still remain, namely: the cruise control does not engage and the remote start only starts the engine that runs for two seconds then dies. Still looking for an answer. It's a "Code Alarm" with Codestart dated 11/24/99.

Re check the connections, it sounds like you have a short in the Wireing harness. If you park you car where there are lot's of small animals link mice, squirels ect. They come out this time of the season looking for things to chew on and make a home out of. 
Sorry for the shot in the dark but it does happen and if you do park your car where there are lots of small animals. Fabric sofener's in the car like under the seat keep's them away.
Good luck and hop this helps