My cooling fans will not come on the mechanic replaced the condenser he claims and he said they were working but they are not

Hi Naomi , there is a lot involved in the control of the cooling fans on your vehicle ! There are three fuse's , three relays an a fan control unit !
1. radiator fan main relay , located in underhood relay box A
2.condenser fan relay , located in underhood relay box A
3.radiator fan relay , located in underhood relay box C
4.Cooling fan fuse # 47 20amp. underhood fuse / relay box
5.condenser fan fuse # 50 20amp in underhood fuse / relay box.
Any one of these could cause them to not work, rather then just replacing parts an wasting money you should take it to the repair shop !

Hello,
Did you have a specific engine code requiring replacement of the Cam Position Sensor?
Did you recently replace the thermostat or run low on coolant or have some other cooling system work done? The temperature sensor can be bad, or simply have a loose wire connection. Check those. There can be air in the coolant system as well. Finally, the thermostat could be sticking and will need to be replaced.

These issues have nothing to do with the Air Conditioner. However, the AC will not cool if the car is sitting still unless the condenser fans (electric) are running. Turn on the AC and check to ensure the cooling fans energize.

Most of these items you can check yourself, however if not, then have your mechanic or a mechanically inclined family member or friend check them for you.

Best regards,

Take it back and make them fix it, if they refuse sue them in small claims and/or contact your state's consumer protection office (or bureau of automotive repair if you have one) and file a formal complaint, that will get them moving.

Have you radiator clutch fan check out, sounds like its bad, air blows through radiator and a/c condenser while driving and no air blows through at stops, will cause a/c pressure to go up and not cool.

Most likely has a cooling fan not working,check for a bad relay for the cooling fan ,and the high side pressure switch,it is in a high side line,it tells the cooling fans to come on.

did you check if the cooling fans are working? this is very important, because they lower the pressure of the freon before passing throughout the expansion valve and getting into the evaporator,more pressure means highter temperature, , of course when you are driving the air flow throughout out the condenser lowering the freon temperature in the condenser and lowering the freon pressure at the high side, tha's way the temperature inside the car is lower ... you can have a similar problem if the condenser is partially plugged..hope this was very helpful...

THE COOLANT FAN OR THE ONE THAT IS PROBABLY NOT WORKING IS THE CONDENSER FAN. THIS FAN PULLS AIR ACROSS THE CONDENSER TO COOL THE HOT FREON GAS SO IT CAN BE CONVERTED BACK INTO A LIQUID, THE PROBLEM IS IF THE FAN IS NOT WORKING THEN IT WILL NOT COOL DOWN AND THE INTERNAL PRESSURE WILL BE TO HIGH AND THAT IS WHY THE A/C WILL NOT WORK AT IDLE. WHEN YOU ARE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD YOU ARE PUTTING AIR ACROSS THE CONDENSER BUT WHEN YOU STOP THE AIR STOPS. TO KEEP FROM DAMAGING YOUR A/C SYSTEM YOU WILL WANT TO GET IT FIXED AS SOON AS YOU CAN. CHECK AROUND TO SEE WHO HAS THE BEST PRICE.

fazsoliz: If the A/C system is not properly charged, it will not cool properly. Usually it is noticed at low speeds because the compressor is turning slower. If you bring the RPM up, you would probably notice it would start to cool a little better.
HOWEVER, there is a danger if the system has been over charged and you do not have enough air flowing over the condenser to keep the head pressures down. The hotter it is outside and the more overcharged the system, the higher the pressures will be in the system. They can reach dangerously high pressures in excess of 300 psi. This can cause hoses to blow, a/c evaporators and condensers to fail and compressors to fail.
If the refrigerant is contaminated or if the system had been opened and had not been properly evacuated before charging, it could have moisture in it as well as air.
The fan which is driven by the engine is attached by a viscus coupling (designed to offer more resistance as it gets hotter, thus making the fan turn closer the the engine's rpm's). If this part is not working properly, it will not make the fan turn fast enough at slow speeds to draw the air over the a/c condenser and radiator.
I have found in very hot climates, that installing an electric fan in place of the engine driven fan made a vast improvement on the performance of the a/c at idle and low speeds. I have an old Mercedes diesel wagon which I converted from R-12 to 134-A.
The a/c would freeze you out on the highway, but you would be better off rolling the windows down in town. I removed the engine driven fan and installed an electric fan. Now the a/c will freeze you out at low speeds if you bring the rpm up to 1100, but is cold enough even at 700 rpm.
You must also check for any type of debris caught up in the a/c condenser. The more trash accumulated in the fins, the more difficulty it will have in dissipating heat. The fan schroud also must be on the radiator, otherwise the fan will have little effect in pulling
air over the condenser.
Also, put the system on recirculate after a minute or so. This way you will be cooling the air in the cabin and slowly bringing the temperature if the cabin air down and not having to fight the need to constantly cool hot air coming in from the intake vent.
I hope that what I have offeref for suggestions will help you.

Could it be that the a/c problem is noticed more on hot days when a malfunction would be more noticable?

It is doubtful the window problem is related to the a/c problem. But a window that doesn't operate might also be more noticable when you are hot and the a/c isn't working up to par you will be more likely to use the window. But hotter temps have physical properties that might raise resistance in a circuit, or the connections can be affected by the expansion of metal in the plug connections or within the window motor itself. Take some tuner cleaner to the toggle switches it will help if the contacts are dirty. Or a good whack on the door panel where the motor is might get it functional for a while.

If the compressor is kicking in and out it is probably the high pressure cut off switch doing its job.

Usually you want to check the freon pressures to see if it is low. By deduction my guess is its probably not a low freon situation if you usually get good cooling. Hot weather only increases the pressures, so a low pressure problem would theoretically improve.

There are 2 things I suspect, but I am not familiar with your specific vehicle, so this is a generic troubleshooter.
This is my checklist in order of likelihood, provided you aren't low on freon.

Overheating condenser coil-gets too hot and not able to dissipate the heat exchange efficiently. This raises the pressures until the high pressure cut out switch cuts the compressor off. When the condenser cools off pressures normalize and the hi pressure switch disengages, allowing the compressor to compress again.

CAUSES: Clogged condensor radiator fins- clogged with bugs & debris. Clean with high pressure to get the bugs out. Flush them out from the inside to the outside so the don't get lodged deeper in the coil.
Bad condenser fan; bad fan relay, blown fuse or open in circuit.
Clogged condenser coil- Internal blockage. May require condenser replacement, but radiator specialist maybe can by pass the bad spot depending on where it is - may get frosty near blocked area.

Overheating condenser will show up when you are stopped in traffic, but when moving- especially at hiway speeds- you push air through the condenser, which cools it and lowers the pressure, keeping the Hi pressure cut out switch from engaging. Does the belt squeal just before the compressor cuts out? This is a sure sign of a overheating condensor.

The condenser fan cools when you're not moving. Depending on your setup your condenser fan may not be on all the time. On older domestics the condenser is behind the radiator and the radiator fan cools both. On most foreign & newer cars the radiators are side by side with separate electric fans for each.

HOW TO TROUBLESHOOT THE CONDENSER. Start your car, open the doors wide and turn on the a/c on HI. Let it run until the compressor cuts out. Take a garden hose and run water over the condenser- does it steam a lot when the water hits it-then it is probably overheating- Continue to run water over it- DOES THE COMPRESSOR KICK BACK ON WHEN THE CONDENSOR COOLS OFF? If yes, your condensor is overheating.

Remove the water and let it run until the cut-out switch engages again. DOES THE CONDENSOR FAN ENGAGE AT ALL DURING THIS PROCESS? If Yes: Is it blowing normally or sub-par? If blowing normally the fan and circuit are working properly.

IF NO- the problem is a bad fan or fan circuit. Test the fan by disconnecting the 12vdc plug and jumping with 12 volts from the battery. DOES THE FAN WORK WHEN YOU JUMP IT? IF NO- your condensor fan motor is bad- replace it. IF YES- the fault lies in your condenser fan circuit. check fuses, relays, etc for that circuit.

If this isn't your problem here are more some things that may be going wrong, depending on your cars components and configuration.
Clogged condensor coil- flush debris with air or water pressure to the front. Clogged orifice tube or other component depending on what your system has. This is not exhaustive, but it is the most likely culprits.
Good Luck and rate this solution please

check out with your dealer as you might have a recall to fix this problem.
XT303-S932
X-TYPE
DATE 01/03
MODEL
2002-03 MY
X-TYPE
VIN
C00294-C91719
Overheating - Cooling Fans Inoperative - Replace Module Prior To Retailing - Service Action S932
This Service Action Applies to Vehicles That Have Not Been Retailed
Issue:
The cooling fan module on X-TYPE vehicles may fail under certain circumstances. There are various root causes but the design and quality of the printed circuit board within the cooling fan module are the most significant. The NAND gate used in the circuit is detective causing multiple failure modes, this can result in high engine temperature and overheating due to the cooling fans not operating.
A change has been implemented in production from VIN C91720. On these vehicles a 'Philips' printed circuit board has been used that has a modified voltage spike protection strategy.
Action:
To prevent customers from experiencing this issue, install the latest specification cooling fan module on 2002-03 MY X-TYPE vehicles within the above VIN range that have not been retailed.
PROCEDURE
1. Install new cooling fan module (see Workshop Manual, JTIS CD ROM, section: 303-03, SRO 26.25.38).
Parts Information
Warranty Information:
Warranty claims should be submitted quoting S932 in place of the warranty fault code together with SRO: 26.25.38 and the relevant part number. This will result in a labor time allowance of 0.8 hours to replace the cooling fan module and payment for the part used. Should the vehicle be brought back into the workshop for this action alone to be undertaken, an additional labor time allowance of 0.1 hours can be claimed quoting SRO: 10.10.10 for drive in/drive out.
Warranty claims should be submitted quoting the information found in the table. This will result in payment of the stated time and, where applicable, parts/miscellaneous expense codes.
The options that allow for drive in/drive out may only be claimed when the vehicle has been brought in to the workshop for this action alone to be undertaken.
The SROs and parts items listed above have been included for information only, there will be no requirement to enter the parts or SROs onto the claim.
NOTE: Always perform a DDW claim search first to determine whether this service action has been performed on this vehicle. The warranty selection under the vehicle inquiry will give a listing of all claims against the vehicle. If this service action number appears in the program code field, do not perform this service action.