Good day.. my steering wheel is experiencing drugging when using brake at speed of 85kph and above. i even change my tire rod and ball joint and even the velocity joint.still the result is the same..

remove lower ball joint and remove axle nut in the center of spindle. then move the spindle out of the way separating the axle from the spindle.

Could be a bad tire ( or bent rim Have balance checked), ball joint, idler arm, wheel bearing, steering tie rod end or defective rack and pinion unit. Lift vehicle about 1 inch off ground ( do each side independently) Use a pry bar and pry from ground up and down on wheel. Much play? bad ball joint. With both hands, try to move wheel side to side. Much play? could be a tie rod end or bad wheel bearing. Visually check play of steering arm into rack and pinion unit, more than about a half inch play, bad rack and pinion unit. Try to move back and forth with hands top and bottom. Much play? Bad ball joint or wheel bearing, verify visually that it is ball joint moving, else it is the wheel bearing. Manually check for play in each joint in steering control rods from steering knuckle all the way through each rod where there is a joint. Replace the one you find excessive play in. Check mounting studs for sway bar for loose fit, deteriorated rubber bushings or a crack / break in the sway bar. Replace if needed. That's about all I can think of unless it only happens when applying brakes, in which case it could be a warped rotor.

great danger there. dont go fast.
can be tires out of balance (tire weighs feel off)
or wheel falling off (ever check the lugs)
tire bad. (bulged, delaminations , man killer tires, like Firestones)
tire rods balls, ready to fall off (more man killers)
ball joint ,ready to fail. and far far worse...
why not get the car serviced, have them check it out before.... bad happens.
noise and vibration or shaking on any machine means , doom is coming. in most cases,.

I would replace ALL motor & transxale mounts if they are
over 8 years old
I would suspect, as usual, the shops don't remove rust or lube
a thing on brakes,I would do that Take them apart again
Recheck all work that was done
I would drag the brake while on the gas, when it
vibrates, to turn off the trans torque converter clutch
& see if that is an issue.
Could have a bad axle joint
I would in no way trust any shop to have done
a though job of what your saying.
You most likely have worn inner ties rod joints on the
steering rack,something else to check
What about tie rod ends & ball joints & upper strut bearings?

Could be your tie rods coming out of the rack and pinion and attached to the wheels. Grasp the tie rod near where it attaches to the wheel and see if you can shake, twist or move it. If you feel any play or looseness at all in the tie rod joint, then it is worn badly. Both outer tie rods at each wheel should be replaced. If the outer tie rods are tight, you can't move them with your hands, then have a shop check your inner tie rods for wear. Have them check the ball joints for wear, also. Or you can raise the wheel off the ground. Be safety conscious. Grab the tire at top and bottom. Can the tire move in and out, feel play in the lower ball joints? Any side to side play in the wheel? Maybe you can spot the looseness at the tie rod or balljoint. Maybe you'd better let a shop look at it.
A CV joint wouldn't have those symptoms. A wheel bearing possibly, but usually accompanied by a grinding noise. Have it checked out.

Very little info for a fix. Tie rod and upper ball joints do not make a front end shake. Lower ball joints wear out before the uppers do.
Front end shakes at what speed, if you have a broken belt in one of your front tires you will notice it more at low speeds. Mud or snow stuck in wheel will make them vibrate at speed. Lug nuts tight since front end work? You need to give more info. Switch front tires with back tires. If shake is in steering wheel it more than likely is front end but if you feel it in your seat it is more than likely in the rear of the car.

lift it one corner at a time and look for a bent rim or buldging tire.

Removal & Installation NOTE This procedure requires the use of the following special tools: J 9519-E Lower Ball Joint Remover and Installer, J 34874 Booster Seal Remover/Installer, J 41435 Ball Joint Installer, J 45105-1 Ball Joint Flaring Adapter and J 45105-2 Receiver.

1. On 4WD vehicles, remove the wheel center cap and drive axle nut.
   
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
   
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   • Tire and wheel
     
   • Wheel hub and bearing, if necessary
     
   • Outer tie rod retaining nut
     
   • Out tie rod from the steering knuckle using a suitable puller
     
   • Brake hose bracket retaining bolts and bracket
     
   • Upper control arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut
     
   • Upper control arm from the steering knuckle
     
   • Lower ball joint retaining nut
     
   • Steering knuckle from the lower control arm using a suitable ball joint removal tool
     
   • Steering knuckle from the vehicle
     
   • Lower ball joint flange with a chisel
     
4. Install tools J 9519-E and J 34874 to the lower ball joint, then use those tools to remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm.
   

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   
   • Lower ball joint to the lower control arm, using tools J 9519-E, J 41435 and J 45105-2
     
2. Remove the tools from the lower control arm.
   
   • Tools J 9519-E and J 45105-1 to the lower ball joint
     
3. Flare the lower ball joint flange with J 9519-E and J 45105-1, then remove the tools from the lower ball joint.
   
   • Steering knuckle to the lower control arm
     
   • Lower ball joint retaining nut and tighten to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
     
   • Upper control arm to the steering knuckle
     
   • Upper control arm pinch bolt and nut and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
     
   • Brake hose bracket to the steering knuckle
     
   • Brake hose bracket retaining nuts and tighten to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm)
     
   • Outer tie rod to the steering knuckle
     
   • Outer tie rod retaining nut and tighten to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
     
   • Wheel hub and bearing, if removed
     
   • Tire and wheel
     
4. Lower the vehicle
   
   • Drive axle nut, if 4WD, and tighten to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm)
     
   • Wheel center cap, if removed
     
5. Check the front wheel alignment.
   

You need to determine if the wheel bearing is loose. You will need to inspect the ball joints. A sign the ball joints are toast is inside or ouside tire wear. Inspect the brake caliper for loosness.. You will need to inspect the draglink coming from the steering box . Have someone turn the steering wheel just enough to barley move the tire. Move back and forth while your inspecting all ball joints. These trucks are know to destroy the steering linkage joints. Excessive roll on the rods while turning the wheel will be an indicator.

The upper ball joints are replaceable without replacing the control arms. Use Moog K80008 ball joints and a ball joint press.