Air flow will not get hot. Only warm, about 67 degrees is all. Have replaced thermostat. Fan motor operates fine, just temp sensor seems to have no effect.

From your description, it does not sound like it is actually running hot.
Might be a faulty gauge or computer unit.
I hate to say it, but sometimes worth taking to the dealer to check annoying ones like this.

yes it can damage

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Ok, here is my take on your problem. As you may already know, it takes a car a few min. to actually warm up to operating temp. When the coolent reaches operating temp. the thermostat opens to circulate the coolent in the radiator. Now, as your drive, the air pushing against your car will actually blow some air through your heating system ducts and into the passenger compartment. Is it possible that your blower fan isn't working? Because while you are stopped, there would be no air forcing its way through your ducts, thus no heat. As your drive, your car gets up to operating temp, heats up, and the air pressure as your drive will blow some heat out into the passenger compartment? On a side note, if your thermostat is stuck in the open position, it would take it forever to warm up since it is circulating ALL the coolent even tho it isn't at operating temp. A thermostat stuck open will take 30 min or more before you actually feel any warmth, if at all in the winter.. your thermostat opens and closes constantly as the engine is running to keep it at its normal temp, usually around 160-180 degrees. If you live where it gets really cold, a thermostat stuck open likely will never get warm. If your blower motor works, and your engine don't overheat, im 98% sure its your thermostat.

Have you verified that system has been "burped" of air? That the fans kick on? Check radiator hoses for kinks. You can try running without the thermostat to see if that helps and can identify if the thermostat could be a problem. You may need to check your coolant mixture too.
Sounds like you have reduced flow or restriction in cooling (heat exchanger) as it runs fine at cooler temp but can't keep up when it gets warm.
New parts don't always equal working fine parts.

Make sure that your thermostat is working correctly. Let the engine warn up, not long enough for the vehicle to get into close loop, but to where the hose is warm. At this point the hose should be hard. If it isn't hard you will also hear the water flowing as you squeeze it. Often the thermostat goes into a fail safe mode which is all the way open and with the engine having run hot, this could have caused failure here. If it does't pass this test, it should be taken out and looked at. If it is bad you will see it all the way open...you can always compare it with the new one.

YOUR ENGINE OPERATING RATING TEMPERATURE SUPPOSE TO BE 190 TO 200 DEGREES. IF COOLANT SENSOR DEGREES IS SHOWING 190 OR 200 DEGREES IT WORKING.THAT RIGHT.IF ITS SHOWING 60 OR 80 DEGREES IT FAULTY. AND ENGINE WILL RUN POORLY.

Try replaceing the engine fan controller, make sure there are no bugs in the radiator, there is another coolant sensor cost about $22.00 for it the fan control costs $40.00 bucks since you say it's ok when you have AC on my guess is the fan comes on for the ac and keeps it cool. You also may need a new fan motor, non AC side. sometimes the shats slip and the fan slips on the shaft of the motor an causes it not to turn fast enought.

P2181 Cooling system performance

Check Thermostat operation & Temp sensor for ECU. CHECK ENGINE CCOLANT TEMP SENSOR IN WATERHOSE, NORMALY A 4 PIN PLUG. ON SENSOR SELF PIN 1&3 OR C&D AT 0 degrees
5000-6500 ohms,60 degrees 530-675 ohms,90 degrees
200-275 degrees

Could also be the cooling fans - I've heard of fixing it by replacing the fan motor and clearing the code as well. The easy fix seems to be the coolant sensor though - I've seen several online threads where owners cleared this code by changing that sensor.

In general I know of no reason per se to replace the thermostat and temp sensor because you replaced the radiator fan. If the temp gauge seems to be staying in the 1/3-2/3 of full scale, and there is no apparent engine control issues as the engine warms from cold to operating temperature then there is no obvious reason to replace those items. Other than fan motor failure is there any reason for you to believe these other parts are at fault?You can get a free fault code readout at an Autozone parts store which would highlight a temp sensor problem, but there is no fault code for the thermostat except maybe the one for engine running cold for too long a time after start up. You could also check the resistance of the temp sensor which should run around 10-14,000 ohms when cold and drop to 700-1,000 ohms when warmed up.
I don't know about the issue of replacing the thermostat because I don't know which engine you are working with. So let me know an