Runs good most of the time but sometimes die going down the road usually starts back up but didnt couple days ago threw it on a computer threw 2 codes crankshaft sensor and fuel level sensor changed crankshaft sensor helped alittle now same thing again any suggestions

There is a black fuel relay way up under the top left driver side dash that breaks its main wire solder connections on the circuit board under over-heat conditions. Resolder that relay. Starting fluid will show that you have lost fuel delivery under no start conditions. You can use the breather hose from the valve cover for this test.

I don't have an answer for you, but I do have a similar or maybe even the same issue with mine. It usually starts up fine, and idles and runs fine when first started, however a few blocks or a few miles down the road it starts to cut out on me, sometimes dying completely... throwing it into neutral and pumping the gas usually will keep it running. This has gone on for a couple of months. When it does die, It normally will restart after sitting for a few minutes. Then a couple of weeks ago it died on me (normally this happens when slowing down and coming to a stop,) and would not restart even after a 1/2 hr, I had to have it towed. I periodically attempted to start it for over a week, it would turn over, but nothing more...then someone suggested that I disconnect the auto start box...It started right up. However, it still continues to cut out when slowing or stopping unless thrown into neutral and pumping the gas. It seems to run better on the open highway, than it does in town with all the slower speed and stop n go. I bought this car used about 6 mos. ago, and considering it's age and the 135K miles on it, I don't want to put any more money into it. I just read there is a recall on this vehicle for the fuel pump and additionally the fuel assembly, I'm not sure if this would be the answer to the whole problem or not.

I Found that the outboard PCM cover screw was shorting out the circuit board.

Short story long: I have a 97 Grand Cherokee 4.0L, 138,000 miles. Several weeks ago, I started to have stalling issues. Hot or cold, dry or wet, first drive of the day or last, it didnt matter. The engine would cut out. It felt like it lost all electricals.
At the time it was showing an ASD relay code and primary coil/ secondary ignition code. Swapped the ASD and A/C relays and replaced the coil and iac valve. Same problem. I didnt have time to look at it, so I had the dealer go through it. After 2 days and $200, they called and said it was the ASD relay, and that they put in a new one, and its all good. Um, ok, maybe I missed something. Im a trusting soul, but lets see if this fixes it. The next day the problem was back. I went back to the dealer and they basically said, We dont know what it could be, good luck with that. Now my wife knows why I dont go to the dealer. By the way, the old relay tested good.
My turn. I cleaned connectors, ohmed out wires and sensors, checked for power and grounds. Everything checked good. By now, its showing ASD, crank sensor, and primary ignition codes. Then, with my wife trying to start it, I wiggled the connectors on the PCM. Every time I wiggled the gray C3 connector just right it would run. When I let go, it would die. So I took the connectors apart and tightened up the crimps (I dont recommend doing this without the proper extractors and crimper). Threw it back together and BAM! Same problem. Well, time to bite the bullet and check for bad solder joints on the PCM board. I took the cover off of the PCM and realized that looking through the potting compound is like looking through Guinness Stout. But, I put it back in and hooked it up. It started stronger than ever, and didnt even think about stalling. Yes! I figured that I finally got the connectors sorted out, so I left it over night to cool down. Got up the next morning and it started right up and wouldnt stall even when wiggling the connectors. So I put the cover back on, put the PCM back in, hooked up the connectors, and BAM! It wouldnt start! That was the point when my wife asked, Hows it going? And I, being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, said, what the ----? Thats when my wife turned around and went back into the house. While smoking a pack of cigarettes, I thought, Gee, it runs with the cover off, but not with it on. DUH, wonder what it could be? So I backed out the two screws that hold the cover on and BAM! It started right up. Then, while it was running, I tightened the outboard screw and sure enough, it died. I cut the screws (1/4 long, factory screws are 1/2 long Torx head) with a pair of wire cutters , and shes been running great ever since

If the vehicle has been sitting for a while, you should start by draining the fuel tank, and changing the engine oil. Gasoline does go bad if it is just sitting for a period of time, and will cause the issue you describe. Most likely, your issue is simply bad gasoline.

Found that the outboard PCM cover screw was shorting out the circuit board. Chrysler PCM p/n P56028412, s/n TEH106636023.

Short story long: I have a 96 Grand Cherokee 4.0L, 125,000 miles. Several weeks ago, I started to have stalling issues. Hot or cold, dry or wet, first drive of the day or last, it didnt matter. The engine would cut out. It felt like it lost all electricals.
At the time it was showing an ASD relay code. Swapped the ASD and A/C relays. Same problem. I didnt have time to look at it, so I had the dealer go through it. After 2 days and $200, they called and said it was the ASD relay, and that they put in a new one, and its all good. Um, ok, maybe I missed something. Im a trusting soul, but lets see if this fixes it. The next day the problem was back. I went back to the dealer and they basically said, We dont know what it could be, good luck with that. Now my wife knows why I dont go to the dealer. By the way, the old relay tested good.
My turn. Being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, I grabbed a multi-meter, contact cleaner, and wiring diagrams. I cleaned connectors, ohmed out wires and sensors, checked for power and grounds. Everything checked good. By now, its showing ASD, crank sensor, and primary ignition codes. Then, with my wife trying to start it, I wiggled the connectors on the PCM. Every time I wiggled the gray C3 connector just right it would run. When I let go, it would die. So I took the connectors apart and tightened up the crimps (I dont recommend doing this without the proper extractors and crimper). Threw it back together and BAM! Same problem. Well, time to bite the bullet and check for bad solder joints on the PCM board. I took the cover off of the PCM and realized that looking through the potting compound is like looking through Guinness Stout. But, I put it back in and hooked it up. It started stronger than ever, and didnt even think about stalling. Yes! I figured that I finally got the connectors sorted out, so I left it over night to cool down. Got up the next morning and it started right up and wouldnt stall even when wiggling the connectors. So I put the cover back on, put the PCM back in, hooked up the connectors, and BAM! It wouldnt start! That was the point when my wife asked, Hows it going? And I, being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, said, what the ----? Thats when my wife turned around and went back into the house. While smoking a pack of cigarettes, I thought, Gee, it runs with the cover off, but not with it on. DUH, wonder what it could be? So I backed out the two screws that hold the cover on and BAM! It started right up. Then, while it was running, I tightened the outboard screw and sure enough, it died. Yes! Aircraft mechanics love it when they can make things stop working. I installed new screws (1/4 long, factory screws are 1/2 long Torx head), and shes been running great ever since

fuel pump and or filter is my first guess

I Found that the outboard PCM cover screw was shorting out the circuit board.

Short story long: I have a 97 Grand Cherokee 4.0L, 138,000 miles. Several weeks ago, I started to have stalling issues. Hot or cold, dry or wet, first drive of the day or last, it didnt matter. The engine would cut out. It felt like it lost all electricals.
At the time it was showing an ASD relay code and primary coil/ secondary ignition code. Swapped the ASD and A/C relays and replaced the coil and iac valve. Same problem. I didnt have time to look at it, so I had the dealer go through it. After 2 days and $200, they called and said it was the ASD relay, and that they put in a new one, and its all good. Um, ok, maybe I missed something. Im a trusting soul, but lets see if this fixes it. The next day the problem was back. I went back to the dealer and they basically said, We dont know what it could be, good luck with that. Now my wife knows why I dont go to the dealer. By the way, the old relay tested good.
My turn. I cleaned connectors, ohmed out wires and sensors, checked for power and grounds. Everything checked good. By now, its showing ASD, crank sensor, and primary ignition codes. Then, with my wife trying to start it, I wiggled the connectors on the PCM. Every time I wiggled the gray C3 connector just right it would run. When I let go, it would die. So I took the connectors apart and tightened up the crimps (I dont recommend doing this without the proper extractors and crimper). Threw it back together and BAM! Same problem. Well, time to bite the bullet and check for bad solder joints on the PCM board. I took the cover off of the PCM and realized that looking through the potting compound is like looking through Guinness Stout. But, I put it back in and hooked it up. It started stronger than ever, and didnt even think about stalling. Yes! I figured that I finally got the connectors sorted out, so I left it over night to cool down. Got up the next morning and it started right up and wouldnt stall even when wiggling the connectors. So I put the cover back on, put the PCM back in, hooked up the connectors, and BAM! It wouldnt start! That was the point when my wife asked, Hows it going? And I, being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, said, what the ----? Thats when my wife turned around and went back into the house. While smoking a pack of cigarettes, I thought, Gee, it runs with the cover off, but not with it on. DUH, wonder what it could be? So I backed out the two screws that hold the cover on and BAM! It started right up. Then, while it was running, I tightened the outboard screw and sure enough, it died. I cut the screws (1/4 long, factory screws are 1/2 long Torx head) with a pair of wire cutters , and shes been running great ever since

sounds like you need a new fuel pump.

fuel pump relay switch which will cause fuel pump to also become week had same problem for three yrs. My husband, every mecanic in country thought i was crazy, cuz never did it and i mean never when I took it to shop, was so flustrating, untill finally one day my husband was with me when it done it. I said finally damn car tryed make me think I was crazy, i said believe me now, said yeah, **** He drove it all time to but never in those three yrs did it ever do it to him, me on the other hand everytime i drove it just about, so i think he thought i was crazy or just wanted a different car and im like no just want mine fixed so i didnt have to take it for a walk everyday instead i would like to driving it cuz everytime i left the house in those three yrs i was usually walking back, or hitching a ride, my car walked me very often lol, That was 5 yrs ago have never had a problem with the car since, still driving it today.

Hi, I had simmilar problem with my 1993 JGC . I ran out of gas and it would not start until the next day. Then it will start and run until I put the brakes on tho stop and then it will die. It starts right back up. Ended up being the voltage regulator in the ECC/ECM. It is at the mechanics shop right now waiting for the ECC to come in.I will post a follow up.
have Fun,
David C