Replaced fuel pump w/ aftermarket , now fuel gauge not working

Most fuel pumps today are sold as module assemblies which includes the hanger, pump and level sensor. The level sensor is the device used to report the fuel level to the fuel gauge. Fuel level sensors work by attaching a float to the fuel level sensor arm; when the fuel level lowers so does the float which in turn moves the sensor arm and changes the signal. Level sensor floats can be rather bulky when attached to the level sensor arm so often times they are not pre-installed at the time of the part sale. Once the new part is removed from the box, the float (whether a new one is provided or simply removed from the original unit) must be installed onto the new level sensor arm prior to fuel pump module assembly installation. If a float is not installed, the metal level sensor arm will not be suspended at the fuel level which results in an "empty" fuel gauge reading. You can read more here: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/why-fuel-pump-replacements-can-be-tricky-by-marvin-sunderland

Some general fuel gauge help here

https://www.google.com/search?q=1977+toyota+hilux+rv+fuel+gauge+not+working

But if it is really a 1977 Toyota Chinook, it doesn't have much on it. If the sender works to another gauge, it can only be the wiring to the gauge or the gauge itself. Does your aftermarket gauge have an adjustment screw on the back to calibrate it?

https://www.google.com/search?q=1977+toyota+hilux+rv

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It could be any one or more of this list:
Fuel level sensor. Just because you replaced it once, doesn't mean it's still good.
Connection to fuel sensor
Broken wire between fuel sensor and gauge
Broken wire between battery and fuel sensor/gauge
Bad gauge

Nissan had problems during this year with the gas gauges intermittently working across their entire range of cars including the Infinitis. This is probably 2 separate issues.
Did you buy a remanufactured fuel pump? Ebay aftermarket? If so, you may have to just buy a OEM one and have it installed at a dealership. It may cost more now but it is better than getting a "deal" now then having a tow bill from the side of the road another year from now.

had a ford that the wire on the fuel pump would hop off ,had to keep plugging it back in,also check your fuses.

I'm a little lost here, but if it will start on starting fluid, the ignition system is working.
Most V-6 GM trucks take at least 65psi of fuel pressure to start. Most aftermarket pumps don't do the job.
I would check the fuel pressure with a gauge next.

maybe you bent th float arm. Did you replace just the pump or pump/sender assembly? Ford or aftermarket? Or a bad sender/pump assembly

This problem is caused by a defective fuel gauge sending unit. The fuel gauge sending unit is located inside the fuel tank, the fuel tank must be dropped out of the car to replace it, this is about a 3 hour job and about $200.00 for an aftermarket pump/sending unit module, and $300.00+ for the AC Delco OEM fuel pump module which contains the sending unit, the two are not sold separately. Here is the part number of the one I recommend.


SPECTRA PREMIUM Part # SP6005M Includes Fuel Pump, Fuel Gauge Sender, Float, Strainer and Fuel Reservoir (Source for price and part www.rockauto.com) $197.79
This is the lowest price on the internet I could find for you.

That might work. But with that many miles it would be best to replace the whole assembly. GM unit would be the best as aftermarket stuff does not seem to last very long.

Ford has lots of problems with the sender reliability. Typically, the sender (and expensive fuel pump) replacement resolves the issue. To test, you need to take the connection off of the sending unit, at the tank, turn on ignition, and then ground and un ground it and view results at the gauge. If the gauge responds, the sender needs to be replaced.

There are aftermarket senders that cost less than OEM.