Can I detect a spark signal from the distributor without removing the spark plug (like using a stroboscope light)by using a multimeter?

How far does your knowledge go with ignition system diagnostics? Do you own a test light and a multimeter? You will need to start at the spark plugs and move towards the distributor and to the coil. Unplug the coil wire at the distributor, connect a good plug, ground it to the engine and check for spark. If no, use the test light on the coil and test for voltage and pulse. If both are present then the coil is no good. If the voltage is gone check the fuse. If the pulse is no good. Go back to the distributor and remove the cap. Does the rotor spin while the engine cranks? Please start here and let me know if you need more instructions.

If theres no spark from the spark plugs then you would have to replace them?

It would be much easier to show you than to describe the process - there might be a helpful youtube video...
My description is best practice that can be curtailed somewhat if necessary.

Replacing the the contact breaker points requires several distinct operations to ensure the reliability of the car for a reasonable time.
I am not familiar with your model but the process is similar on all but a few models.

Remove the old contact set and wipe the distributor cam clean. Inspect the baseplate ground lead if fitted, Inspect the rotor arm and distributor cap. Place one drop of light machine oil on the baseplate pivot and two drops in the shaft centre. Oil the cam lubricating wick if fitted or smear HMP grease sparingly on the cam lobes.
Check the vacuum unit if fitted and ensure the baseplate moves smoothly.

Fit the new contact set and roughly adjust the gap. Connect the dwell meter and crank the engine (best done with spark plugs removed) until the dwell angle reading is obtained. Increase the gap a little if the reading is higher than specified and reduce the gap if the reading is too low.
Once the obtained dwell angle is correct, check the physical points gap with spotlessly clean feeler gauges. If the gap is within specifications the distributor cam is not worn. Check the gap on all the lobes to ensure they are equal.

Fit the rotor arm ensuring any wiring is pushed down and is not going to foul anything. Fit the distributor cap. Check the spark plug condition and gaps and refit them. Start the engine and check/adjust the timing using a timing light (stroboscope).

Once the engine is at working temperature the idle speed and air/fuel mixture should be checked and adjusted.

Cars fitted with contact breakers should receive these checks and adjustments about every 6000 miles...

the timing marks are on the crankshaft pulley. slightly loosen the distributor and use a stroboscopic timing light to pulse the correct setting...adjust distributor anti clockwise or clockwise to set. I f you are still running contact breakers please ensure these are set before doing timing.

Mark the spark plug wires for the cylinder number using a short piece of masking tape on each wire. Remove all the spark plugs using the spark plug wrench. The engine will be easier to turn by hand with the spark plugs removed and it's a good time to replace them if required. Remove the valve cover from over the number one cylinder. On a V-block engine this is normally the valve cover on the driver's side. On in-line engines the number one cylinder is the one closest to the front of the car. Check your vehicle's specifications to be sure which cylinder is number one.

Rotate the engine clockwise and observe the valves on the number one cylinder. When both valves are in the up position, insert a screwdriver into the number one cylinder through the spark plug hole. Rotate the engine very slowly back and forth until the screwdriver is at the maximum height. This indicates the number one cylinder is at Top Dead Center or "TDC" on the compression stroke.

Locate the number one spark plug wire on distributor cap and make a tic-mark of this position with a marker pen on the distributor housing. Remove the distributor cap and observe the position of the rotor.

Loosen the distributor hold down bolt and turn distributor until the rotor is lined up with the mark you made in Step 3. Your timing is now set to zero degrees of mechanical timing.

Replace the valve cover using a new gasket. Replace the spark plugs and spark plug wires using the marks from Step 1. You may want to mark the harmonic balancer with a zero point referenced to a fixed point on the engine. A fixed point could be a bolt head or accessory bracket that does not move when the engine is running. Later on this mark can be used as an indicator for stroboscopic timing.

Connect a vacuum gauge to a manifold vacuum source. Most engines will have a port at the base of the carburetor or throttle body where a gauge can be connected. Start the engine and observe the vacuum gauge reading.

Turn the distributor until the maximum vacuum gauge reading is noted. Back off one inch of vacuum from the maximum reading. Tighten the distributor hold down bolt. Normal readings average from 14 to 21 inches of vacuum depending on the condition of the engine.

Test drive the vehicle and listen for pinging noises. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 if excessive pinging is heard, or if there is a significant loss of power. The timing is correct when the vehicle operates at maximum power without the engine hard starting, backfiring, or pinging on acceleration.

Are you sure you got the dustributor in the right tooth? Check timing using procedure at link below. Or, maybe you got a bad rebuilt. Here are some tests to check it out:
1993
See Figures 6 and 7

1. Check for spark at each spark plug with a spark tester. Check at least 2 plug wires.
2. If spark is only detected at some plugs, check for a faulty distributor cap or rotor. Also check the spark plugs and plug wires. Replace, if necessary.
3. Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when cold, between terminals 3 and 6, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 185-275 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
4. Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when cold, between terminals 2 and 5, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 370-550 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
5. Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when hot, between terminals 3 and 6, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 240-325 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
6. Measure the resistance of the distributor connector C1 when hot, between terminals 2 and 5, using a digital voltmeter. If the camshaft position (CMP) sensor resistance is not between 475-650 ohms, replace the distributor housing.
7. Measure the air gap between the signal rotor and the camshaft position (CMP) sensor. If the air gap is not 0.008-0.016 inch (0.2-0.4 mm), replace the distributor housing.

Fig 6

Fig 7

Repair Guides Ignition Timing Checking And Adjustment AutoZone com

If you do not see a distributor or spark plug wires, then you have a coil over plug system. Changing the coil pack is as easy as removing the hold down bolt and lifting the coil pack off the spark plug. Other things should be checked like signal to the coil, the fuel injector signal and the spark plug

Sounds like its a distributor. To test if its sparking at all take the plug wire and hold a screw driver and see if it arcs to the screw driver when you crank it. but heres the best way to diagnose it on your vehicle follow the following steps and let me know from there what happens.

Steps
1 Remove the spark plug wires one at a time and insert a small screw driver into the wire.(SEE WARNINGS) Be careful as you don’t want to get shocked with 60,000volts. Hold the wire so that the screw driver is 1/8” away from the engine. Have someone crank the engine and watch for a good white spark. If you have a good spark on all wires look for a problem with timing or something else. 2 Remove the distributor cap. Have someone crank the engine over with the distributor cap removed and observe if it is turning? That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one. If the distributor is not turning then likely you have a broken timing belt or chain. 3 Turn the ignition key on but don't crank the engine. Locate the positive or power wire attached to the engine coil. Using a test light check for power. If this has power, then the wiring from the ignition switch is OK. 4 Locate the negative or ground wire attached to the engine coil. Using a test light check for power. This sounds strange however, one end on a good battery ground and the other on the negative wire attached to the engine coil. The test light will light up indicating power on the negative side of the coil with the key on and engine off. 5 Have someone crank the engine while watching the test light. If you observe the test light flickering when cranking the engine and you have no spark, either the coil wire is faulty of the coil is dead. Test these using an Ohm meter.# If no flickering or pulsating was observed then check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens. This is the negative wire back to it's source, the ignition module. 6 Check the pulse generator in the distributor if it has a distributor cap. Some newer cars don’t have one,and if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor. 7 With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. If this is observed then the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If no A/C signal is observed then you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor. 8 Know that if this part of the primary ignition tests OK then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens. If wiring tests are OK. Suspect the ECM or computer as a last resort. edit
Warnings
Be careful as you don’t want to get shocked with 60,000volts. be careful when checking the leads for sparks with a screwdriver doing it this way can cause very expensive damage on newer engins best use a spare spark plug or a proper tester for this job
Thanks, Midwest-tek

Crank engine with distributor cap removed, is it turning?
(That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
Broken timing belt or chain?

Are you getting power to the + positive side of the coil (small wires) with key on ? Hint; I use a needle pushed into the back of the plug so as not to damage the wiring.
If you have power then wiring from the ignition switch is OK. It usually is.
Hook your test light to the - negative side of the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
Crank the engine while watching the test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
If so and you have no spark the coil is likely dead. (don’t rely merely on resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still give no spark. It happens but is unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
No flashing signal?
Check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens.
If they are good,
It is time to check the pulse generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)

If this part of the primary ignition tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens. Wiring tests ok. ECM as last resort.
Hope this helps...........

I have the same model of car, and I have had this problem before. It is normally the ignition module. Check that the coil has power going to it, using a voltmeter. The coil should have 3 wires connected to it. One is the big HT lead, and then there are two small wires, one on either side of the coil. One of the wires is for the constant 12volt power source, the other is the control wire. With the ignition switched on, you should be able to read 12volts at one of these wires.

The other wire is the control wire, it receives pulses from the ignition module that is inside the distributor. Effectively this switches the output of the coil on and off, and controls when the spark plug will fire. It is difficult to detect these pulses without proper equipment, but a multimeter set to AC might be able to detect the presence of an AC voltage (although it probably wont accurately display the correct voltage), which would indicate that the ignition module is working.

If the pulses are not present at the input of the coil, then your ignition module is probably the culprit.

Open the distributor, and remove the rotor button. There is a round plastic cover over the ignition module, which must be removed. The ignition module is semi circular, and has four wires attached to it, via small screws. Take note of the location of each wire, and unscrew each one. The ignition module can be unscrewed with a phillips head screw driver, and removed. When fitting the replacement module, you must cover it with the heat sink compound that is supplied with the new module (mechanics sometimes refer to this compound as ignition module grease). Without the heat sink compound, the new module will over heat, and burn out. You should be able to replace the module in 15 minutes, it is very easy to do.