Need to replace coolant on 2000 Olds Silhouette with 150k miles, 3.4l engine. Would like to add cleaner and backflush entire system. To backflush, manual says you have to remove exhaust cross-over pipe (& TBI?) to access thermostat housing bolts. Don't relish having to tear apart exhaust, then R&R multiple times to flush coolant, add cleaner, and reflush. Is there an alternative?
Or is drain and fill sufficient with Dexcool. Will heater cores drain properly?
Used to be able to install a garden hose backflush fitting into a heater hose. Is this feasible on this vehicle with front & rear heater cores? Can't really access both heater outlet hoses to install fitting.
Thanks - Sleet
Power flushing is usually not a good thing as the heater cores can become blocked.I would suggest to remove the lower rad hose and drain as much coolant as possible.Refill with clear water with lower hose reattached.Bleed system of air as you fill with water and keep filling until operating temp is reached.Drive and return and drain it again the same way,now refill with at least 1 and 1/2 gallons of dexcool and don't forget to add the vegetable based aluminum protector required in your vehicle available from gm and make sure you bleed the air from the system from the valve just to the rear of the rad filler neck on the engine at the end of the coolant pipe running across the front of the engine.
SOURCE: cold air coming from rear vent of 2000 mazda mpv
Your ventilation shutter is not closing properly.
SOURCE: 4 wheel drive not working
First, check the transfer case and make sure it's full.
If you have the electric shift system in your vehicle, a servo motor could be failing, or the switch may be going bad. Even the switches on these systems are expensive so good, accurate testing must be done to verify failure of anything before you start replacing stuff. If it's not electric, check linkage to transfer case... something may be loose and sliding out of adjustment. Todays systems are just too complex to give accurate answers without hands-on testing. Many times several different items can give similar symptoms. That is why most shops say "bring it in and we will look at it".
good luck
Take it to the Jeep dealer . It's still under warranty. Won't cost you a penny. Good luck.
SOURCE: Thanks to all the responses I really do appreciate
Hello Taz..might check the converter to make sure the exhaust system does not have excessive backpressure. Also make sure the electronic cooling fans are cycling...they should kick in and out. They are tied into the A/C system circuit with a relay.
The 3.1L and 3.4L V-6 Engine (VINs J, E - RPOs LG8, LA1) were known to have intake gasket failure. This was due to a bad gasket that was designed by GM...it had nylon in it...Over 400,000 of these were sold in Canada alone. The gasket has since been redesigned and torque specs recalculated. If you replace the manifold gaskets follow these guidelines.
Install a new design intake manifold gasket. The material used in the gasket has been changed in order to improve the sealing qualities of the gasket. When replacing the gasket, the intake manifold bolts must also be replaced and torqued to a revised specification. The new bolts will come with a pre-applied threadlocker on them.
Notice
An oil leak may result if the vertical bolts are not tightened before the diagonal bolts.
Diagonal bolts may require a crows foot to tighten.
Tighten
1. Tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (1) to 7 N.m (62 lb in).
2. Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (2) to 7 N.m (62 lb in).
3. Tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (1) to 13 N.m (115 lb in).
4. Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (2) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
Good luck...i hope this helps.
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