2000 chrysler mini van with 2.4 liter.My engine has a knocking noise,I removed oil pan and balance shaft chain was very loose. I tightened chain,the tensioner was wore.I had to push tensioner to its limit.The noise was mostly gone ,but returned within two days.Was this a problem with these engines?Some say they remove the shafts and have no problems,and gain some horsepower.

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oil balance shaft? it is called the BSM


yes , RTM read the service manual,

https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

the 2 cams are set using a tool called locking wedge.
4 marks aligned 2 cam sprockets per the manual./

BSM WORDS ,INSTALL

There are two different Balance Shaft Module (BSM) to engine block bolts used. 180 mm bolts with a lock-patch on the threads or 185 mm bolts without lock-patch. Do not reuse the 180 mm bolts. Always discard 180 mm bolts after removing. Failure to replace these bolts can result in engine damage. The 185 mm bolts are reusable. Install the same length bolts that were removed and use either four new 180 mm bolts or four 185 mm bolts.
If chain was removed, align marks on crankshaft sprocket (2) and chain (1).
Align marks on crankshaft sprocket (2) and chain (1)

1. Align marks on oil pump sprocket (5) and chain (4).
2. Install chain on sprocket.
3. Pivot BSM assembly upwards and position on ladder frame.
4. Start BSM mounting bolts by hand.
5. Use a three step procedure when tightening BSM mounting bolts.
6. Tighten new 180 mm BSM mounting bolts as follows:
   
   1. Tighten to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm) in the sequence shown.
   2. Tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (33 Nm) in the sequence shown.
   3. Rotate bolts an additional 90° in the sequence shown.
7. Tighten 185 mm BSM mounting bolts as follows:
   
   1. Tighten to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm) in the sequence shown.
   2. Tighten to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm) in the sequence shown.
   3. Rotate bolts an additional 90° in the sequence shown.Remove tensioner pin 9703 (4).
      Remove tensioner pin 9703 (4)
      
      1. nstall oil pan.
      2. Fill with oil.
      3. Start engine and check for leaks.
      READ THE MANUAL PAY $20 LIKE ME.

That looks like a 2.7 liter. Is there oil in it? The first thing I would do is remove the serpentine belt and make sure the noise is coming from the engine and not an accessory. If the noise goes away with the belt removed than spin the pulleys by hand to see which one is making the noise. If the noise is the same with the belt removed than...... These engines have an issue with the oil pickup tube being to close to the bottom of the oil pan. Over time, sooner with less than normal service, the oil will start to sludge and this accumulates on the bottom of the pan. Eventually this will block the pickup tube and starve the engine of oil. Your best bet is to find a good used engine with low miles from a reputable source.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

STOP the engine immediately !!! There is an oil pump failure of 2.0 TDI engines !
Remove the oil pan and the oil pump & balancer shafts assembly.



Either the shaft driving the pump from the balance shaft rounds off or the balance shaft drive gears eat themselves.
The same issue ... low oil pressure warning light, noisy rattling engine, and the turbo has gone. Diagnosis: oil pump balancer shaft assembly ...




Many 2.0 TDI engines show excess chain noise and wear anywhere from 50,000-100,000+ miles. Cars have broken the chains/tensioner as low as 65,000 miles. This is just a range of cars that have been reported, diagnosed, and repaired. The actual statistics on dealer repairs or failures is unknown and I've heard cars over 100,000 miles that, in my opinion as a non mechanic (most mechanics wouldn't recognize this sound and problem either), aren't noisy. From what has been reported, noticeable noise/chain-tensioner wear/greater risk of breaking is around 60,000-150,000 miles. Your case may vary. The most obvious symptom is a rattling loose noise from the oil pan. Unless you listen to a Passat TDI with a tight chain and one with a loose chain, it's hard to describe the difference other than rattling chain noise.
The reason the gear drive oil pump modification was started is because a few mechanics who specialize in TDI have seen many worn oil pump chains/sprockets/tensioners. There will always be a few defective parts that come off the assembly line and all mechanical components like chains wear out sooner or later, but in my opinion, the failure rate is abnormal considering the number of Passat TDI sold versus the number of reported oil pump failures. This does not necessarily mean that every or even most Passat TDI will have this problem, just that the reported failure rate is high enough to consider this part a design failure. Nobody, not even VW-Audi knows the average time between failure for these parts and the percentage of cars that will have this problem, but they changed this design and if you want to not have this specific failure, the only sure way is to swap to the geared module.

STOP the engine immediately !!! There is an oil pump failure of 2.0 TDI engines !
Remove the oil pan and the oil pump & balancer shafts assembly.


Either the shaft driving the pump from the balance shaft rounds off or the balance shaft drive gears eat themselves.
The same issue ... low oil pressure warning light, noisy rattling engine, and the turbo has gone. Diagnosis: oil pump balancer shaft assembly ...



Many Passat show excess chain noise and wear anywhere from 50,000-100,000+ miles. Cars have broken the chains/tensioner as low as 65,000 miles. This is just a range of cars that have been reported, diagnosed, and repaired. The actual statistics on dealer repairs or failures is unknown and I've heard cars over 100,000 miles that, in my opinion as a non mechanic (most mechanics wouldn't recognize this sound and problem either), aren't noisy. From what has been reported, noticeable noise/chain-tensioner wear/greater risk of breaking is around 60,000-150,000 miles. Your case may vary. The most obvious symptom is a rattling loose noise from the oil pan. Unless you listen to a Passat TDI with a tight chain and one with a loose chain, it's hard to describe the difference other than rattling chain noise.
The reason the gear drive oil pump modification was started is because a few mechanics who specialize in TDI have seen many worn oil pump chains/sprockets/tensioners. There will always be a few defective parts that come off the assembly line and all mechanical components like chains wear out sooner or later, but in my opinion, the failure rate is abnormal considering the number of Passat TDI sold versus the number of reported oil pump failures. This does not necessarily mean that every or even most Passat TDI will have this problem, just that the reported failure rate is high enough to consider this part a design failure. Nobody, not even VW-Audi knows the average time between failure for these parts and the percentage of cars that will have this problem, but they changed this design and if you want to not have this specific failure, the only sure way is to swap to the geared module.

You need to hold the engine on a trolley jack by lifting it on the oil pan itself to then undo the engine mount. Once the mount is removed lower the jack, remove the remaining pan bolts and then remove the pan proper. Refitting is a matter of fitting the pan with some of the bolts, loosely, to then lift the engine a little with the jack to refit the mount, followed by fitting the remaining pan bolts and tightening. Its a matter of just doing things in a certain order but it is easy enough when you do that.

the oil pan will need to be removed to repalce the rear seal, so replace the front seal and gasket then, replace the timing chain/gears if sloppy, then reinstall the oil pan.

5.0L and 5.7L Engines To Remove:

1. Remove the crankshaft balancer.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Remove the water pump.
4. Drain the engine oil.
5. Remove all engine oil pan fasteners except two nuts at rear of engine.
6. Separate the engine oil pan from the front cover.
7. Disconnect the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor wire.
   
   
8. Remove engine front cover.
   
   
9. Pry the oil seal from the front cover.
10. Inspect the front cover seal area and crankshaft balancer seal area for damage.
    
    
11. Rotate the crankshaft until the timing marks on the crankshaft and the camshaft sprockets are aligned.
12. Remove the crankshaft position sensor reluctor ring.
    
    NOTE: Free play on the slack side of the camshaft timing chain must measure less than 0.43 inch (11Mm) or timing chain and sprockets must be replaced.
    
13. Remove the camshaft sprocket bolts.
14. Remove the camshaft sprocket.
15. Remove the camshaft timing chain. NOTE: Do not turn the crankshaft assembly after the timing chain has been removed in order to prevent damage to the piston assemblies or the valves.
    
    
    
16. Remove the crankshaft sprocket using J 5825-A.
17. Remove the crankshaft balancer woodruff keys (if required).

To Install:

1. Install the crankshaft balancer woodruff keys into the crankshaft.
2. Align the crankshaft sprocket keyway with the crankshaft balancer woodruff key. WARNING
   Wear eye protection when installing crankshaft sprocket.
   
   
   
3. Use J 5590 to install crankshaft sprocket.
4. Install the camshaft sprocket and camshaft timing chain.
   
   
5. Ensure that the crankshaft sprocket alignment mark is in the 12 o'clock position and the camshaft sprocket alignment mark is at the 6 o'clock position.
6. Install the camshaft sprocket bolts and tighten the camshaft sprocket bolts;
   • Torque to: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
7. Install the crankshaft position sensor reluctor ring until completely seated against crankshaft sprocket. NOTE: The composite type engine front cover and seal must not be reused. Always install a new engine cover with a new seal.
   
8. Install new engine front cover and bolts.
   • Torque bolts to: 106 in. lbs. (12 Nm)
9. Clean sealer from corners of oil pan gasket where it meets the engine front cover.
   
   
10. Apply a 0.196 in (5 mm) bead of adhesive, GM P/N 12346141 or equivalent, 1.0 in (25 mm) long to the engine front cover to engine block junction.
11. Install oil pan bolts.
    • Torque bolts to: 106 in. lbs. (12 Nm)
12. Tighten oil pan nuts.
    • Torque bolts to: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
13. Connect the crankshaft position sensor wire.
14. Install the water pump.
15. Install the crankshaft balancer.
16. Fill the engine to the proper level with oil.
17. Fill the engine to the proper level with coolant.
18. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.

Write down the radio security code and the radio presets on your Honda Accord then disconnect the battery cable. Place the number one piston to TDC and remove the oil pan.

Take out the oil pump chain tensioner and throw it away. Use a 6 mm pin driver to hold the rear balancer shaft, placing the pin driver into the maintenance hole in the lower balancer shaft holder and through the rear balancer shaft.

Loosen and then remove the oil pump sprocket and and take out the oil pump. Clean all the surfaces so they are free from contaminants and debris. Make sure any old gasket is removed from the mating services.

Insert New Oil Pump

Add clean engine oil to the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt for lubrication then install the pump and oil pump sprocket loosely. Take the pin driver away.

Tighten the retaining bolts on the pump then squeeze the new oil chain tensioner and put it in the set clip. Install the oil chain tensioner and remove the set clip.

Reinstall all the components in the reverse order of how you took them out. Wait half an hour -- input the radio security code and the radio presets while you are waiting. Fill the engine with clean oil and wait three more hours before starting your Accord and checking for leaks.

When ever the car is put into gear you are putting a load on the engine. Just like if you are lifting up a heavy box then setting it down. When you get the weight out of your hands you seemed releived don't you? The same with any vehicles engine. A engine will wear out just the same as we get older. The knocking noise is a worn main crank bearing that is worn out. I would sell the car this summer with a oil change performed using a couple pints of STP to stop the noise

The knocking or ticking is going to determine if it is in the top end, lifters, push-rod or rocker arm issue or the bottom end that would include pistons or bearings.
If it is a ticking noise, it will more than likely be a valve train issue.
If a knocking noise, piston or crankshaft related problem.

Attached is a web site that you can listen to a piston slap which is a known issue for your 4.3.
Listen to the noise and see if it sounds similar to your problem. A piston slap will generally sound as though it is coming from the central area of the engine.
Listen to the recording and let me know.
Regards,