Replaced battery now there is zero juice

You have a parasitic draw on battery

How to identify and locate a parasitic drain - YouTube

Maybe batteries your hooking up too flat

Depends on the car. Could be an immobilizer if your car has a security system.

It is best to "trickle charge" a low/dead car battery using the lowest setting. The "jump start" function will probably not have enough juice to start your car by itself. Refer to the manual of your charger for safety precautions.

-get battery charger, procedure will make car go dead.
-turn on ignition w engine off
-attempted to start then release to on
-after 10 mins sec light should turn off
-turn off wait about 5 sec
-repeat steps 2 more times for 3 cycles/30 mins
-last step off to crank (i would hook up cables to another car before i did last step so that the dead battery had more then enough juice to start, if battery still kinds dead and doesnt start u have to do procedure all over again.
-if u have the money u can just take car to dealer and have them do a scanner that'll reprogram system

I was having the same issue with my car not sure if yours is the same issue but check out the alternator amp fuse

Make sure you have a ground wire going from the battery to the body. Also if the voltage regulator is bad on the alternator it can put out 14+ volts when running but when you shut the car off it can pull the juice back out of the battery.

Or the battery cables ! Do you know how to use a voltmeter ?
Starter Voltage Drop
Do you know how to do basic automotive electrical testing ?
How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit
Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know Here is a place to view wiring diagrams ! http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html

Double check the battery positive connection wiring carefully as it commonly has connection problems when the battery is changed.

I had the same problem with the 2000 v70 XC I bought in Dec. 08. I replaced the battery, then the antenna ring (around ignition; part of the immobilizer system), and bought new keys as sometimes the chips in them do go bad. Also, if you have a key for another car with an immobilizer system on the same keyring, take it off. The multiple signals can confuse the immobilizer system. I think the antenna ring may have been one issue as, consistent with what repairpal stated, I got a crank and the engined turned over for about a second or 2 one time and then it died. The antenna ring (and the new keys) were relatively inexpensive. That worked for about a month and then I got no crank at all.  I had the starter replaced, but in hindsight I think that may have not been the problem.  I think the problem was the starter not getting juice. The starter was a very expensive solution. About 2 weeks after having the starter replaced, it wouldn't crank again.  I took it to a Volvo dealership and gave them the history. They found a corroded wire near the starter and, at least until now, that seems to have done the trick. Labor on the wire was about $100 at the dealer. Searching Volvo forums for those who have had a similar problem, I have found that others have had the "bad wire" problem.  If you are told to replace the starter by your mechanic, my advice to anyone having this problem is to have check to make sure the starter is getting juice before replacing the starter as replacing the starter (parts and labor) cost me about $650-$700.  If they find that the starter is not getting juice, they can check for wire corrision starting at the starter and working their way back.