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OK...I did some trial-and-error and would like others to benefit from my experience. a.) Open the fuel door and remove the three sheet metal screws that secure the plastic sleeve to the fuel tube. b.) press on the lower inside of the plastic sleeve to seat it at its lowest position in the well, then press on the upper edge of the plastic to unseat the catch in the edge of the plastic. Draw it out. c.) The fuel door is held on place by two nuts. Remove the nuts and remove the old door. Put the new door in place and reverse the order to assemble. BTW: Before you tighten the nuts and reinstall the plastic sleeve, you may want to open and shut the door a couple of times to make sure it lines up with the opening of the body and closes correctly, THEN tighten the bolts and insert the plastic sleeve.OK...I did some trial-and-error and would like others to benefit from my experience. a.) Open the fuel door and remove the three sheet metal screws that secure the plastic sleeve to the fuel tube. b.) press on the lower inside of the plastic sleeve to seat it at its lowest position in the well, then press on the upper edge of the plastic to unseat the catch in the edge of the plastic. Draw it out. c.) The fuel door is held on place by two nuts. Remove the nuts and remove the old door. Put the new door in place and reverse the order to assemble. BTW: Before you tighten the nuts and reinstall the plastic sleeve, you may want to open and shut the door a couple of times to make sure it lines up with the opening of the body and closes correctly, THEN tighten the bolts and insert the plastic sleeve.
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common issue with these clusters, they short out... Need to replace it , but there are some people who can repair the one ya have but usually cost around 200$
Remove the door panel and unplug the connector to the door actuator. Probe the contacts with a voltmeter set on DC volts. Then operate the lock/unlock switch. You should see the voltage toggle from +12 volts to -12 volts. If you do, then the wiring, switch and connector are good and you have a bad actuator. Be prepared to start replacing all of them because they all operate the same number of cycles.
Hello: The spring clip when depressed will slide into SLOTS in the lock cylinder, hold in on the lock cylinder and depress the spring clip and push in.
the fuel pump is located in the trunk under the mat directly behinde the seat take the cover off (it will be a round siver cover) it will have a clamp holding the fuel pump down and a quick wire connect on top. remove the quick connect and the clamp rings. remove the pump and replace with new one
I think your best result would be contacting an auto scrap yard for this part, as the demand for a fuel door for a '96 is very low, no one carries it new in stock. A good auto salvage yard is networked to others, so they can usually search other yards for your fuel door, and have it shipped to them. Let me know how u make out
OK...I did some trial-and-error and would like others to benefit from my experience. a.) Open the fuel door and remove the three sheet metal screws that secure the plastic sleeve to the fuel tube. b.) press on the lower inside of the plastic sleeve to seat it at its lowest position in the well, then press on the upper edge of the plastic to unseat the catch in the edge of the plastic. Draw it out. c.) The fuel door is held on place by two nuts. Remove the nuts and remove the old door. Put the new door in place and reverse the order to assemble. BTW: Before you tighten the nuts and reinstall the plastic sleeve, you may want to open and shut the door a couple of times to make sure it lines up with the opening of the body and closes correctly, THEN tighten the bolts and insert the plastic sleeve.
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