Vehicle overheating engine fan not coming on
Warm the Car up to operating temp where the fan should come on. Use a Circuit tester to check if it is getting power to the Fan at the fan connection. If you have power your Fan needs to be replaced. If no power then check the Engine Temperature sensors with an Ohm Meter, when cold they will have all kinds of resistance and when Hot should have no resistance. If they do not switch under heat they are bad. If those are good then you will need to replace the Relay. Of course check the Fuses first and when you do pull them out to inspect them for corrosion and coat them with Dielectric grease to prevent new corrosion. Also use the dielectric Grease on all connections that you check to prevent corrosion.
If your engine is overheating, Try this procedure:
Fuse, faulty temp switch, some even get info from computor , also fan relay, lots to check , fan could be siezed or just burnt out does it come on when you turn the a/c on?? is it a single or duel fan set up??
SOURCE: 1999 Volvo S80 will not hold a charge
Tricky ... Was the alternator replaced with a 2nd hand one or a new one?
A defective alternator can allow the battery to discharge within a few minutes (the diodes in the rear of the alternator can burn out and cause the problem. The diode pack can be replaced). When this happens recharging the battery only replaces the power in the battery - which drains straight back to earth via the alternator, flattening the battery again - often within a couple of minutes or less.
Does the battery lose its charge when the car is standing or just when the engine is fired up?
If the battery loses its charge overnight, try disconnecting the wiring from the rear of the alternator (also look at the electrical connector that fits into the back of the alternator - look for melting/burning marks which suggest something may be amiss inside the alternator).
Let the car stand overnight with the alternator wires disconnected. Will it start up ok and drive (with the alternator wires still disconnected) the next morning?
You could also try just disconnecting the alternator wires, firing up the car and then driving it -
If the car drives ok without dying out and gets further down the street than it usually does, then it probably is the alternator at fault. The car should drive until the battery drains and has insufficient power to trigger the ignition. You certainly would get further down the street with a charged battery and disconnected alternator than you currently do.
It does sound as though you've had an alternator fault to begin with. If it has been replaced with a 2nd hand unit that unit may also be faulty. Rather than replace parts in desperation, visit an auto electrician's - within a few minutes they will be able to test the battery/alternator output and also identify where the lost current is going. It will be cheaper in the long run to have an auto electrician look at the charging system. It only takes a few minutes.
SOURCE: Fuel Relay
It is in the passenger compartment relay box under the left side of the dash. Along one edge there are 6 rectangular relays grouped 2 together and 4 together. The fuel pump relay is second over from the gap between the 2 groups of relays. My diagram marks it as CMI 12.
SOURCE: 1999 Volvo S80 gas cap cover won't open when I unlock car!
Most likely the fuel door latch motor has failed. Pull down the trunk liner panel for that side by turning the knob next to the rear seat fold down 45 degrees. That will allow the panel to be pulled down. the latch is the small black box against the car body. It should have a manual release to get it open. Once open take out the two T25 torx screws and the motor will come out. Pay attention to how the manual release is routed and reassemble in reverse order.
hope this helps
SOURCE: 2000 volvo s80
0237 is turbo/ super boost sensor a circuit malfunction
0236 is turbo/ super boost sensor a ckt range performance
SOURCE: volvo s80 t6 1999 sunroof not operating, no noise
no the sunroof has it own module it is part of the motor
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