What causes the rear brakes to lock down afer driving about a mile

Emergency brake cables are rusted. They wont release the E brake. Cut them or replace them.

wonder if the rotors are too slim. If this happens the brakes get too hot as the rotor radiates away the heat. If too hot the brakes could wear out faster.

If the Mechanic on the job could not find out after working on it ? Brake Pads sound easy to fit , but they are not, if they dont go in 100% flat , problems. Another big problem, use GENUINE PADS, as fitted by manufacture, Afer market , unknown Pads not good.

both rear lock?
that be you did them both wrong?
there are adjustements that need to made
and checks,not just slam in pads
the FSM book covers how to do it right ever consider reading that first then act?

1. pistons in calip, no seized,
2. caliper slider pins seized.
3. emg. brake, mechansim stuck
4. emg, brake, not adjusted after all done, per FSM!
5. brake pedal rod not adjusted, right for clearance to master cylinder (risks 4 wheel lockup)
6. icing of parts, got ICE? we cant guess ice, and not stated.
7. wrong pads, or put in wrong, or with shims wrong.
8. more,sure,, why not get the brake man to fix this.> now since car is danger to all, you and others on road.

The way in which a car has driven has a very direct impact on how long brake pads will last before they have to be replaced. For example, if you spend most of your time driving long distances on the highway, you're using your brakes much less often than in stop and go urban driving. I have seen cars that need brake jobs every 75,000 miles; I've seen similar cars, with different drivers and different driving routines, go 25,000 miles between brake jobs.

I would not be surprised at all if the front brake pads (and possibly rotors) of your Accord needed to be replaced at 60k miles of typical mixed driving. I am, however, somewhat surprised that your rear brakes need service at this point. The front brakes of a car typically provide much more of a car's stopping power than the rear brakes (it's a physics thing), and so they generally wear much more quickly than the rear brakes. All that said, I recently had to replace the rear brake pads and rotors of a 2002 Passat that had only 51,000 miles on the odometer. This car's pads were worn down to the metal, and one of the rotors was badly scored. Upon speaking with the owner of the car, though, things made slightly more sense. First, the car was equipped with a very active ABS braking system, which decreases front wheel braking and increases rear wheel braking depending on road conditions. As a result, the rear brakes of that car were used much more heavily than in the "average" car. Second, and more obviously, the owner admitted to forgetting to release her parking brake several times before driving off, sometimes going several miles before realizing her mistake. The emergency brake system on most cars engages the rear brakes, and driving off with those brakes still on will put a huge amount of wear on those pads in a very short distance.

One final, distant, thought is that it's possible that your rear calipers have gotten "sticky" and are not fully releasing after they have been engaged. Accumulated moisture on the brake pistons and piston channel walls can leave rust spots that hang up piston travel, leading to this condition. At the same time, it would be unusual for both brakes on the same axle to develop this problem at the same time--this typically happens one brake caliper at a time, and you notice the condition when you car begins pulling to one side when you brake or even after you release your brakes.

Rear disc brake pads offer better performance and are not as affected by moisture like conventional brake shoe style brakes are. Rear disc brakes are similar to front disc brakes. The main difference is that rear disc brake systems must incorporate the emergency brake system. There are two methods widely used for the emergency brake with rear disc systems. The first system is a brake shoe inside the brake disc that is actuated by the emergency brake lever. The second is a screw style actuator inside the brake caliper. When activated the brake pads are forced into the brake disc and held tightly by the emergency brake lever.
READ COMPLETELY BEFORE STARTING
Step 1 - Identify Rear Disc Brake Components
Rear disc brake assembly includes; rear brake disc, rear brake pads, brake caliper mount and a caliper mounting screw. (Note: Some vehicles do not have the rotor mounting screw.)
Step 2 - Removing the Rear Brake Caliper Mount Bolts
To replace rear brake pads and rotors the rear brake caliper needs to be removed. First loosen the rear brake caliper mount bolts and remove them. Turn counter clockwise.
Step 3 - Lift Rear Brake Caliper from The Caliper Mount
After the caliper mount bolts have been removed, gently lift the brake caliper from the caliper mount. Inspect the caliper slides; they should move freely in the caliper mount. Remove rear brake pads and hardware.

Step 4 - Removing Caliper Mount Bolts
With a socket wrench or other appropriate removal tool, loosen the rear brake caliper mounting bolts. Remove bolts and lift the caliper mount and remove it from the vehicle. Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole. Tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub holding on tightly, using both hands. You do not want to drop the rotor.

Step 5 - Removing Rear Brake Rotor
Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole, tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub, hold on using both hands and do not drop.

Step 6 - Install New Brake Rotor
Check the new rotor against the old brake rotor to make sure they are the same size. Clean the mating surface on the wheel hub before the new brake rotor is installed. Reinstall rotor retainer screw.
Step 7 - Reset Rear Brake Caliper
Before new brake pads can be installed, the rear brake caliper must be reset. The reset tool winds the piston back into position so the new brake pads will fit. This style of brake caliper will not compress with a clamp tool; it can only be reset with the proper reset tool.
Step 8 - Reinstall Rear Caliper Mount and Install New Rear Brake Pads
After the caliper has been reset, reinstall caliper mounting bolts and make sure the bolts are tight. Then match up the old brake pads to the new brake pads. They should be exactly the same except, of course; the old ones will be worn out. Check the new brake pads for proper fit and install any brake hardware that is required.
Step 9 - Remount Rear Brake Caliper
Reinstall the brake caliper, align brake pad hardware and reinstall caliper mounting bolts. (Note: align the rear peg of the brake pad to the groove in the caliper piston.) Recheck and retighten all caliper and caliper mount bolts. Bleed brake system to relieve any air in the system. Before driving the vehicle, push the brake pedal down and let it up slowly. This operation forces the brake pads to travel to the brake rotors. DO NOT DRIVE VEHICLE until proper brake pedal operation resumes. When test driving vehicle listen for any unusual noises during the operation of the brakes.
WARNING! Always have the vehicle under inspection on level ground, in park with the emergency brake on. Always wear protective eyewear, gloves and necessary clothing before inspection or work begins. Never crank an engine over when anyone is near the battery or engine. Always have an operational fire extinguisher close by, obey all first aid instructions in the event of an injury. Never stand in front or behind a vehicle when cranked over or running. When engine is cranked over keep hands and clothing away from rotating components. Never move a car without proper brake pedal operation.

if both wheels have this problem check the flex brake hose that comes from the frame to the rear axle,if only one wheel has the problem it could be the caliper or that wheels flex hose,also check the slides on the caliper or the caliper bracket the brake pads have to be able to move after pressure is released,in most cases the slides freeze up causing one brake pad to constantly apply pressure.and there for heating up the rotor one other thing is your emergency brake cable hanging up.

I also have this problem on my 2000 Bravada - replaced all rotors and back calipers, brand new brake pads, new system and my rear caliper STILL chewed up a brand new brake pad in one week down to the metal. Checking for an emergency brake issue at this point - if anyone has any suggestions about how to unhook the E Brake, please share!

Take your rear calipers off and lubricate the pistons with bearing grease,move them up and down with your fingers till they move more freely,then remove the dirt from the a.b.s sensor if any with w.d 40. Then check to see if your emergency brake is adjusted to free up wheel movement,but not to loose.

Is the problems fix on your car? if its not, take it back and have them fix it correctly and it is a safety factor. to answer your question, its Yes and No, its not a common thing with any car, but it can happens to any cars. some car will experience the same problems with low miles and some with very high miles. The caliper which has a working piston pushing the pad in and out causing lots of heat and friction therefor causing the piston and the seal to fail over time due to heat; on the race car its glow red like a stove. when you release the brake the pressure is then release from the line and the piston retract back along with the pad although in this case the piston did not retract and stay extended pushing the pad to the disc causing the wheel to smoke, it like driving with emergency brake on. Again is not a common thing but it does happens and can happens to any cars. hope that help...