What causes a vehicle to die going down the highway but then want start immediately but a short time later it will start back up just fine

There is a problem in the electrics of the vehicle. First place to start is to check the alternator drive belt for condition and tension. Next place is the battery terminals and condition and tension . Third place is to have a load test done on the battery as it may have an internal short and drawing all the current from the alternator. In effect when you add power requirements ( park lights then brake lights then headlights) you are actually using more current than the alternator can supply to keep the engine system running.

An engine shut not backfire unless the timing is off, it has a burnt valve or an exhaust restriction. Since the crank sensor was the catalyst for the problem, I would again check it. It definately affects the timing for the fuel and spark

Your first order of business is to check the oil level in the crankcase, and bring it up to full level. You can probably find a replacement dip stick, or go to a junkyard and get one. Without sufficient oil in the engine, The will seize. or prematurely die.
Is your check oil light coming on? Have the car scanned for trouble codes. Auto Zone and Advance Auto will a scan. Then you will be able to get info on the codes and what they identify. Just look the codes up on an internet search.

Well, to begin with, the LAST thing I would replace if a vehicle died going down the highway is the starter. What caused the engine to die? It certainly was not the starter!
If the starter will not crank the engine over, you probably have a dead battery. If your battery went dead while driving the vehicle down the road, you most likely have a bad alternator. However, it is really hard to say without actually being able to see the car.

even if it looks okay its not okay. do a tune up on plugs, wires, if needed oil change, air filter FUEL FILTER VERY ditributor rotor, cap. important

Keep it simple and replace the fuel filter first, if thr fiiler has not been replaced within 30,000 miles or 1 year. Then it's a good chance that it's going to be the fuel filter. 

Needs tuning. Also replace fuel and air filters. If that doesn't help then it may need piston ring replacement.

Run a scan tool to determine problem, if nothing found take the car to the nearest acura service center to check for any recall onthe car.

check for fuel and spark

Hello, It sounds like an engine ignition control module gone out or a coil. They get hot and quit working after a short period of time, cool off then work again till they get hot.
Is the ignition system pointless electronic or does it have points? Are you getting any fire at all now to the cylinders? Does the tach in the vehicle show any RPM's during cranking? Do you have voltage at the positive side of the ignition coil? Does the coil meet the ohm ratings for that years vehicle ignition? Does the vehicle have oil in it so the oil pressure sensor allows the engine to run, this may not be an option on your particular vehicle? You can check most of this out with a volt/ohm meter. Check your voltages before starting the vehicle, during running and after it quits to see where the loss is. Just don't get near the center tap of the coil or you will get a rude awakening and/or serious injury. Good luck, RAC