Mitsubishi Diamante 3.5L V6 2003 Starting problems on very cold mornings. The engine will start but immediately die unless accelerator held down. Even if held down, as soon as foot is lifted, engine dies. Only way to keep enging going is to hold accelerator to around 2000 rpm for a around 1 min to warm engine slightly. Repeated starts produces the same symptoms of start and die. If it does start idling , tends to cut out if accelerator pressed quickly. As soon as slightly warm , problem dissapears. Mitsubishi agent has checked out the stepper motor and cleand out the butterfly assembly and cold start controls but has not managed to fix the problem. Any ideas gratefully received.
Check coolant sensor and mass air flow sensor
SOURCE: 2000 maxima won't stay started on a cold morning
Have the plastic intake manifold and gasket replaced. I have posted this fixed at least once before and have seen it numerous times.
SOURCE: 98 Isuzu Trooper stalls on cold start, idle issues..
I had the same issue on my 99 Trooper.
It would usually start when completely cold, but idle around 2k RPM.
It would drive fine. But if I shut it down, ran into a store, and came back out, it would start but immediately idle.
Had to ride the gas a little to get it into gear.
The Check Engine light has been going on and off for 6 months or so.
I took this to my local trusted repair shop (no Isuzu dealers within 200 miles).
The diagnosed the light, and found that the Intake Gaskets were bad or leaking.
The idling problem was related to the car not being able to control the amount of air coming in.
They replaced the Intake gaskets by the next day, and I haven't had a problem since. And no more check engine light, which has been on half a year.
Here's some details from my bill:
(1) Intake Gasket set $107.95
Misc materials $21.00
2.1 hours of Labor
The total cost to me was $345.00, and I definately don't feel gipped.
SOURCE: 2000 Camry Starts but dies down right away
Hello
I just worked on this problem a couple of days ago. If the motor is a 3.0 liter. The idle control valve is located at the bottom of the throttlebody assembly right below the bore for the throttle butterflies..What usually causes this valve to go bad is the mechanical part of the sensor sticks as it becomes sludged or carboned up. Manufacturer claims that the valve cannot be cleaned and should only be replaced....It's a high dollar repair to replace this sensor as your engine coolant flows through this electrical valve. The valve idles the car fast when cold, as the antifreeze gets hot the valve drops the idle down.....I have successfully cleaned several of these valves and cured the dying problems...
First remove the air filter top cover and the tubes that connect to the throttlebody. In the right throttlebody you will see a port right before the butterfly. Under the throttlebody you have a black plastic sensor with a 2 wire terminal. Remove the 2 phillps screws and pull off the electrical part of the valve. you will feel a magnetic pull while removing. Remove slowly and catch the black sealing oring, and there will be a metal washer also.. The shaft that is exposed is the mechanical control of the valve. Rotate the shaft and it should feel sticky if bad..Using a throttlebody spray cleaner spray into the small square port of the right bore, rotate shaft and spray until stickfree.....Reassemble
SOURCE: starts but dies as soon as i let off the gas wont
replace the gas filter just follow the gas line of the carb it should be easy to find
SOURCE: Engine idle problem. Range Rover 4.6 HSE 1998 Have
sorry but you have tried everything i would have done except that i would have checked the engine breather pipes for deterioation like perished or soft and collapsing .you would be surprised how often this is the main cause of this sort of problem
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